milsurpcollector

German produced around the first world war. should make a good receiver to build on for a low pressure catridge.

Im not satified with the accuracy of my milsurp 98k bbl

Woukd the Lothar Walther military step barrel be an improvement ?

The gun is in 98k military configuration so it will have a barrel band and handguard touching the barrel.

Should I expect any accuracy gains or would it be a waste of time?

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Im going to keep the G98 as a curiosity plus the fact that I aleady stripped it.

You can still see some of the G98 markings which is cool

BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU ASK FOR. A SR Mauser means a pre-98.

 

Do you really want a pre-98 or are you looking for a small ring threaded 98? The SR thread 98 is marked K.Kale. It is a standard 98 action but has SR threads.

Im looking for a sr threaded 98. The standard m 98 with sr threads

I just bought a turk from SOG hoping for a small ring and I got a G98 rework instead.

I was going to buy a turk on gunbroker.

Is there a way to tell if the turk is a small ring action by the receiver stamp, the factory it was made or something?

TIA

The mounts are non existant but scopes regularly appear on evil bay be prepared to spend $500 plus

The rifle even with reproduction mount still sell for a premium. I saw one on gunbroker sell for $800, not quite as much as an original but still more than the parts

Thanks alot you are a lifesaver I knew I was doing something wrong I just didnt know what

I cut the chamber too deep in my milsurp replacement 03A3 barrel. After setting it back I am going to try again. I was using a depth micrometer with headspace gauges and comparing the results to the old barrel. But that caused me to ream too deep.

I ended up having to requalify the barrel and recut the cone, twice (I screwed up the first time)

So I need some advice before I ruin a $125 barrel

Last resort I will screw it on the receiver and cut a little at a time.

I know this is probably a dumb question but......

I have an 8mm mauser military rifle that I am thinks about rebarreling. The original barrel is in pretty good shape.

Would I see an accuracy improvement if I went with a new commercial barrel?

Keep in mind that I would turn the commercial barrel down to the military profile.

I have a scope mounted so I would get the maximum out of the barrel.

The original barrel is a wartime 98k mauser barrel

Thanks for the reply,

I know what i did wrong and how to fix it, I am not sure if there is enough metal in the chamber area to ream it again. I will post a pic later to show what I mean.

I bought a surplus 7mm mauser barrel from GPC this is one of the unissued ones 19" long.

The barrel was over reamed so I face off some material in the lathe.

When I put it back on the receiver to check headspace I didnt get it screwed on all the way before I rechecked the headspace because I forgot to trim the secondary shoulder enough (rookie mistake)

Anyway I need to re-ream now and I am wondering if I have enough material left to ream the chamber.

I still have 5 threads left on the barrel shank but the chamber area is small on these barrel

I like military guns so I would try to turn it into a 03A4.

Parts to do the conversion a readily avalable on ebay plus boyds makes the correct reproductions stock.

The olny expensive part is the weaver 330C scope, But you can use others that are correct

Get yourself some 10-32 pan head screws Flathead 1 1/2 inches long. Cut about 1/4 in off the screw using a dremel or hacksaw. To secure the wobly head in a vice thread 2 of the nuts all the way to the head and use these to hold the screw while you cut it.

After cutting chuck the nuts that are still on the screw head into the collect on your drill press or hand drill. use a grinding stone, file (slow) or something to slim the diameter of the screw so it will fit through the stock.

Remove from drill press. chuck the threaded part (or what used to be threaded back into the chuck and grind the diameter of the head to the correct size.

Now with the drill still spinning flatten the head by grinding and there you have it.

I made these because many VZ's come with band screws with the 2 dots and I am too cheap to buy a spanner, also I have not attained enough skill to make a spanner.

I was surprised by how close the screw looked like an original band screw (at least the head part)

I mess around with military cofiguration weapons, I turn sporters back into the original. Only with better barrels and usually scopes.

I was at my gunsmiths house today and I saw a rifle with no bolt face down in a barrel of old stocks.I pulled it out and lo and behold it is a mauser minus the bolt in a sporter stock. Now I dont know too much about mausers but this one says. Fabrica de Armas and below that Oveido and below that the number 1897.

 

We talked about it a bit and it seems someone wanted it sporterized but never came back for it. The hump has been milled and the rifle has been d&t for a scope but it retains the slot for strippers.

 

Anyway I asked him if he wanted to get rid of it and he says 50 bucks. Needless to say I bought it but I know next to nothing about it. What would be a good caliber conversion for this little fella? I am guessing small ring here so it was probably 7X57. I am pretty sure this is classified as an antique with that date on it but the barrel is pretty pitted(original barrel)

 

I would restore it but with the milling and drilling it is a moot point. So lets soup this baby up. Any ideas? 6.5x55 or something maybe?

 

Also if anyone knows where to find a bolt for it I would be grateful.

Well it is definately a spanish mauser check on the left side for any info about when it was made.

The spanish made copies of the 1893, 1894 and 98 mausers. Your mauser is most likely one of the first 2. Stay with catridges like the 7x57, 7.65 argentine etc

[attachmentid=86]

Milsurpcollector, I am interested in those bases and rings . Where did you order them from?

Thanks

Bob

They are available at 2 places www.valdada.com and www.usaoptics.net

Heres a pic of what they look like

For what it's worth, the two turkish recievers I've rebarreled with take-off barrels both headspaced without having to ream or set back the shoulder, but if that's normal I can't say. I considered myself lucky with those projects. I haven't read the article in SN but any German reproduction scope mounts I've seen are always big$. If it were me and I was already spending good money for a special rifle and I wanted a military profile I'd spend a little more and get a Lothar Walther barrel. Sporter Express offers them for less than $200.

Thanks for the reply. The Valdada rings and base is $150 Certainly thats more than a Redfield 1 piece but they look COOL!!!!!!

They arent as much as a set of repo high turrent mounts $600 I believe.

In the latest shotgun news theres an article by Dave Fortier on scoping a 98k Using a copy of the german EAW mounts by IOR Valdada. These mounts are awesome looking. I decided to build a mauser just like Fortier's

I have ordered the bases already, I will use an already sporterized 98k but I need a new barrel because mine was cut down and pitted

What are the chances of a takeoff 98k bbl fitting on my 98k receiver without having to ream it or set it back.

[attachmentid=45]Here are some pics.

Im not quite done yet, I am waiting on a scope. Its improved because the original A4's had a Weaver 330 2.5x as the scope. Its the kind of scope that you might see on a Daisy pellet gun. The rings are the correct type just the larger 1'' diameter.

I am waiting for a Lyman All American 4x scope.

I painted the gun using brownells baking laquer. I did the bolt in matte black and the receiver and barrel in Olive drab.

I know the gun is not "correct" but I dont have the cash for that. Its similar though and will have a better scope than the original.

Does anyone know with a gun that stocked almost all the way to the muzzle, is free floating the barrel a good idea. It seems like theres a lot of pressure on the barreled action.

When I worked on the stock, I scraped it instead of sanding, something I learned here. It still has a greenish tint to the wood. Not the prettiest stock I have ever seen.

I have a new barrel but the cut down one thats on it now is almost new.

[attachmentid=46]my stock before refinishing

More pics[attachmentid=47]

the scope base is new from brownells. Redfiled still makes the 1 piece A4 base with the correct hole spacing although its not exactly like the original.[attachmentid=48]

This is the sporter at the gunshop[attachmentid=49]

thanks for the replies,

fritz I use the high temp because I had a Fal receiver that I coated and baked at 350 and the finish scraped off with my fingernail.

I use the matte black or dark park color so I dont care if it gets darker.

I am not sure if the higher temp makes the finish more susceptible to chipping.

I coat the entire bolt on some of the guns I have done. I dont expect the coating to last on the lugs but the body of the bolt has chipping problems too.

I was using brake cleaner to degrease after soap and water, but I was worried about residue from that too.

I have used brownells baking lauqer and and telflon baking coating .

I sand blast the metal using silica sand then I degrease using a sovent and then wash in soap and water

I pre heat parts in oven or toaster over for small parts.

I try to spray about 3 coats they i bake for an hour @ 400 deg

My question is...

I still get areas where the finish chips off. these are high wear areas like the bolt or when I install a claw extractor on the mauser. is this normal what if anything can be done

Looks like a fun project. Are you interested in parting with the stock that came with your rifle? LL

LL shoot me an email if you want the stock $25 plus shipping

neuromancer at charter.net

I had it on ebay but if you want i will take it off

If t he only problem with the holes is that they do not match the receiver, modify the base. The base is cheaper and easier to replace if you make a mistake. The first rule of gunsmithing is: always modify the cheapest most expendable part that you can get away with modifying.

If you cannot take .030 from the base neatly with a file, you probably have no business trying to modify the receiver. LL

Your probably right, but I did it anyway. I was able to file the dovetail to the the base fit and strangely when it did that the mounting holes lined up. I used Dykem to keep track of where I needed to file.

I am taking a half way sporterized 1903A3 and modifying it to a 190a4 configuration. This will not be a true A4 because the original scope was really crappy.

To see what i am starting with go here

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?item=42393669

I still need to fix the bolt, buy a new safety, and inlet the stock I bought for it. Original C stocks sell for $$$$ so I decided to use the scant stock i got off ebay. The bottom pic is a real sniper bolt. I have a oxy/acetelyene rig but I am not sure I have enough material on the bolt

I have a 1903A3 receiver that someone has drilled and tapped for a redfield 1 piece mount. This is the old style with only 2 holes.

The holes do not line up with the holes in the scope base so I need to redrill the rear one.

Can I plug the hole with a screw, cut it off, sand it smooth and just redrill?

I have never tried it before.

I also need to lower the rear of the scope base but I dont have access to a Mill to do it.

On the 03A3 scope base the rear has a dove tail that the mount for the rear sight fits in. The dovetail is about .030 too shallow

I dont want to try and file or grind this area out because I dont this it would look very nice anyone have any tips for that.

Thanks again

Nice investigative work.

Thanks to evryone that replied

No

Yes

Yes

Depends

Yes

 

Jimro

Okay, what kind of bolt do I use in the parker hale

I was kind of looking for a review of a build someone did but what ever info anyone has I would appreciate