riceone

Looks like I am a year late. Some left the factory with a concentric circle stamp and some with elongated "M" stamped in place of the mum. I have seen evidence that some were ground and these two stamps added. There also could be some with school markings as 11echo said. I have not been on the boards much this past year, Hope to do better this year.If any of you live in driving range of Cleveland, MS I will hold my seventh annual SEMCA collectors meeting here at my farm shop at the south edge of town. Cleveland is two hours south of Memphis, TN on US Highway61,You are all welcome, bring a display with you. Its a small show but we usually have 16 or so tables full of WW11 stuff to look at. There will be collectors from all the states around. Dates are Friday and Saturday February 1st and 2nd, little over two weeks from now. Clemseon there will be a guy from Charlotte, NC here also. roy

Robert357 you have given a very good treatiest and there is very little I can add. I have a T99 that was converted to 30-06 by the Japanese or Chinese under US supervision for the Korean Conflict. It is stamped Cal 30 U S. I feel sure accuracy must have been acceptable to have issued them to troops. riceone

Thank you Clemson. I'm close to a John Deere dealer and if anyone wants any shims let me know. They will take blue and cannot be seen once installed. riceone

In using the take off barrel on another Japanese action, sometimes they will tighten up to the match markes "if" the barrel is from the same series as the new receiver. If it won't tighten to the match mark, (or correct position), the shoulder of the barrel can be skimmed. If it turns too far a shim can be added. The shims used by John Deere on thier cotton picker spindle are the exact size needed, inside and outside diameter and they come in .005" thickness. Since the headspace on Japanese rifles are so loose the above will work. However I never use more than two shims. If you are rechambering to say 6.5x57 you can correct the headspace while reaming the chamber.

For that kind of money you could just buy another barrel that has good threads.

I bought one from Great American Stock Company about 3 years ago. Find thier web site, I beleive they still have them. If they do, for a price they will fit and finish for you.

They are fairly common but price is about twice what a T38 of equal condition is. A really nice one will bring 800 to $1000. Fair condition $500.

The barrel is hardened and you cannot push by hand to make the reamer cut. Had a 6.5x50 sporter that someone had set the barrel back and gave up on deepening the chamber. I had to push the reamer with the tail stock aqnd turn the reamer by hand to make it cut. It did just what you said, reamer cam out without any chips. In the heat of combat rifles are shot beyond reasonable limits and they harden. riceone

If it were me I would use loc tite and screw existing screws in tight as I could. Let set and then file the head down leaving about a finger nail thicknes of the screw. Use a small hammer and flatten whats left of the screw, then file and sand smooth and re-tap. riceone

Locking the bolt up like you described seems to be common. I have no idea how it is done as I have tried and can't hang one up. Someone probably tried to let the firing pin down like you do a Mauser and it just won't work. riceone.

FC, I don't know what happened to the Japanese forum, it use to be active. I come by to see if there are any post ever now and then and they are few and far between. I would like to see more activity and you bet I will be here, but its hard to make conversation by yourself. I hope business picks up. riceone

2009 is about gone and for me it has been a very good year collecting Japanese Rifles. I'd like to remind everyone that first Friday and Saturday in February will be the 4th annual meeting of SEMCA here in Cleveland at my shop. Everyone is invited. Expecting 20 to 30 collectors from all over the South. Horsefly I found that T99 action with the 22-250 barrel installed - its still for sale. I've been selling off stuff to finnance some things I have purchased and have more to go. Hope to see some of you in February. riceone

I decided to use JB Weld (since I had some on hand) and put it together yesterday. Here is the finished product. I doubt it will ever be on a rifle when fired - too much danger of shacking something loose inside. Thanks to all who offered help.

Thanks you, I should have know Brownell had it. I'll post the finished project when I get it done. riceone.

Tried the parts house here for the Acura Jel and the Black max Putty. Where do you find this and the Devcon Steel Putty. riceone

I am restoring a 4x WW11 Japanese sniper scope. Someone cut the locking mechanism off and I have made a replacement. I would be afraid to add any heat to the 60 plus year old scope. Someone else told me J B Weld. If it comes off I can try something else. riceone.

I don't remember if it was on this forum or some place else but someone was using and epoxy or similar to glue sight bases on a rifle rather that drill and tap. I have somethinmg need to attach that only glue can be used. The area is about 3 inches long and 5/8" wide in the form of a saddle. Anyone have a suggestion? riceone

Why put a cap on the muzzle? Here is one of mine with no cap. riceone

Don, I think most of us who look at that rifle and say "that's nice" have no idea of the talent, work and energy that goes into making a beautiful rifle. I especially like to look at it because I do a little of that type of work but not in that class. If that is a "10" then what I do is someplace about a 5. That is a classic rifle that puts to shame all the later style painted, rolled over and thumb hole stocks. I too will be watching for more pictures. riceone.

You can make a quick chamber cast using a melted candle or beeswax. Put a patch on a cleaning rod and push it down the barrel close to where the bullet in the cartridge would stop. Melt wax and pour into the chamber of the barrel till full. Wait a few minutes and push the cast out with the cleaning rod. Now you have something you can get rough measurements off to tell what it is. Don't look like a Japanese Barrel to me. riceone

On that action they cut the extractor slot all the way out the front. On other 38 actions they did not. Some Japanese 38 barrels are really stubborn, maybe because some have been on there over a 100 years. This is my third vise and wrench as other failed the test. riceone

For those who may be able to make their own tools I would like to show you the wrench and vise I made for taking barrels off T30. T35, T38 and T99 rifles. Go to this site. It don't slip. http://riceone1.com/id1.html Scroll to the bottom. riceone

I live in Cleveland, MS about a 2 hour drive from you. Have a daughter that lives in Fulton, takes 2 1/2 to get there. Two weeks from yesterday is our SEMCA meeting here in Cleveland. Its a Friday and Saturday event, first weekend in February. You ought to come over. You looking for Japanese stuff, I let you browse through my for sale stuff. Trying to get rid of some. riceone

Go to this site http://www.cruffler.com/trivia-September00.html and compare what you see on the left side of the receiver to what is on the site. From rear to front you have the arsenal mark, serial number and series mark in a small circle. Those three things will tell you all than anyone knows about that rifle. riceone