riceone

[attachmentid=282][attachmentid=281][attachmentid=280][attachmentid=283]Here is one done by a guy I know, Ralph Huffacre, I've kept these photo for just such a time as this. Proof that you can make a beautiful rifle out of most anything. riceone

Looks like you have a normal 6.5x50 chamber. I use bees wax or a melted candle to get a quick chamber cast. I put a patch on the end of a cleaning rod and stick it down the barrel to where I want it, melt the bees was and pour it in the chamber. Makes a nice chamber cast to do just what you wanted to do. riceone.

[attachmentid=273]Done a lot of that and never thought of using a mill. riceone

Are you just wanting a complete receiver with the bolt, trigger guard, floor plate and follower? riceone

FC and Horsefly, its been ages since I saw you names. I have forgotten what it was you two collected. I'm still after all the Japanese I can find. riceone. might have been using rcb.

Is it going to hurt to try some dummy rounds before he starts cutting with the ball end mill. I'd try first and see where I was. You can take more off but you sure can't put it back on. riceone.

All you have to do is weld the bolt handle on lower - closer to the body and let it curve out. It will look like you made it that way on purpose. riceone.

Do what Tinker says. If the handle is sharp on the back and front edge it will do that. File and then sand the front and back edge the same amount and it will not only feel better but will look nice. Welding knob on it will make it look bad. riceone.

I beleive the Japanese had the 7.7 machine gun cartridge and it was from this that the rifle cartridge was derived. For practical purposes the 7.7 is just a rimless 303 Brit. After the four rifle test they settled on a long 99 (31" barrel) and an intermediated 25" barrel 99. Soon after production began they dropped the T99 Long and standerdized on what we know as the T99.

I suppose to a 110 pound man the pounding of the carbine was rather severe.

riceone.

One of the four rifles converted to 7.7 in 1938 for the testing of the new cartridge, was the T38 carbine. It was found to have excessive recoil so that project was scrapped. Friend bought me this rifle to keep as long as I live. There is only one other know example of this rifle. riceone.

Yes that is a Type I, Japanese rifle made on Carcano Action. I think that is a good price. Unusual to see a cleaning rod in it. I wish I knew how to tell you if it is the correct one or just a T38 rod in it. riceone

It was the easiest and most fun. riceone.

I carried the rifle to a gunsmith who blues and since I had it all prepped he only charged me $50 to blue it.

I'm including a close up of the other side of the band, I don't know what it came off but was originally about twice that wide. Before I am done I will install a spring catch like is on the original rifle in the first picture. riceone.

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At the end of WW11 the Siamese conveted Japanese T38 into police carbines and left most in 6.5x50. The top one is one they did, the bottom is one I just finished. riceone.

That is one of the early 38 carbine and looks pretty good to me. The finish on the stock looks original, the metal finish is very good and it has a cleaning rod. If it had the mum, was matching that would be at least a $400 rifle. As someone else said I'd go $200 to $250. The bolt does not appear to be bent. Carbines are hard to find in decent shape. riceone.

I think you would be wise to send him the action. riceone

That's how I would read it. riceone

This guy has parts for Japanese rifles. riceone

Don Voigt

E-mail Address(es):

donvoigt@hotmail.com

No Japanese rifle was ever made with such a handle. Some back yard gunsmith did that. riceone.

Z, you do very good work. The coners are sharp and can not see where the weld is. very good. riceone.

never a mauser, but have made 410 shotgun out of T99 Jap and a M95 Steyr.

The center punch mark was put there at the factory when the rifle was made and has not been taken apart since. For collectors that is a plus and adds to the valued of the rifle.

As to the comment on "how could anyone pay over $300 for a Jap rifle?" It depends on what you want to collect. Go try to buy most any nice matching Japanese rifle with a mum and you will pay over $300. I have quite a few that I paid double that and some and could sell them today and make a profit. riceone.

Fly it was apx 20 years ago the repro covers and cleaning rods hit the market via Shotgun News. If the blueing is near perfect I would be suspect.

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Look on the rear turned down edge of the dust cover - an original on will have three digits of the serial number of the rifle it went on. If no numbers are present it is a repo.

Look at the grooves on your rifle and see if you can see any bright spots. If there are no rub marks most likely it left the factory without one. riceone.

Thanks for the info.  I guess I could get the stock, and cut the triggerguard to match the inletting.  round the couners with a file.  Sound like a plan?  pros/cons?

 

Could anyone post pics of sporters and how the bottom metal was handled?

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For someone real good with measuring tools the second way would be alright. But the simplest and most fool proof way is to install the barrel and do it that way. Less chance for error. riceone.