donmarkey

Penny method to hold back the cp. Don

Check with IDT in Ohio, last I checked you can get a nice douglas barrel installs for about the price as a (puke) shaw. They must buy alot of barrels to get that price the installed price is close to retail on a douglas blank directly from douglas. http://www.itdcustomgun.com/ Don

Just an old school wire brush. I did heat shrink it to keep it from flaring out. It is in a spring loaded holder to keep the pressure even. I tried the tool that uses the cratex rods but didn't like the results as much. Don

I got a new bolt jewelling jig and st juhad to test it out. Normally I prefer polished bolts but I figured my under $200 mauser was the perfect test canidate since I hadn't jeweled anything in probably 10 years. The indexing type jigs make it so much easier than I remember. But still no faster. This jig was built by Ted Blackburn. Don

Return the reamers to the owners and keep a database on who has what. The owner can mail out the reamer and inspect it upon return. Dave Manson from Manson Reamers offered to do a maintenance program on the reamers for little to no cost as long as they didn't need regrinding. Mike should have the info from Dave. Just an idea, since I am not a member and really shouldn't have a say or vote in the matter, but the reason I never joined was I didn't know if the reamers were properly maintained and inspected. But I am of the cautious type and would never buy or use a reamer of unknown history. Don

I agree with Bill. The minimum to use a barrel with a lock nut you would need to true the front of the receiver and do the safety breech cut in the barrel. Which requires a lathe or a really good mill set up. If you have those tools why not just buy a blank. Now some will say you can re-barrel a Yugo without safety breeching the barrel, yes you can just replace the bolt with a turk 1903 or intermediate FN bolt. Don

I'd say that's probably why she's your ex, but then again I have a friend that would give his own mother a ticket for doing 6 over on the interstate. Don

You got to be careful with used reamers of unknown orgin. I wouldn't use a reamer that I didn't know the history of without having it inspected. And I have seen more reamers ruined by hand chambering that machine chambering. Machines don't go in reverse too easily. Plus all the people that like to hone their reamers. I'd hate to ruin a barrel trying to save a few bucks on a reamer. At least the rental places inspect their reamers or the good ones do. Manson will inspect and sharpen if needed a reamer at a very reasonable price as long as it doesn't need to be reground. Don

Well still haven't shot the thing. Got a call from leupold today, the scope can't be fixed so they ordered me a new one. Funny thing is I didn't know it was broke, I sent it in to be retro fit threaded for the caps. Now they are sending me a new one and I don't need to pay for the threading service since the new ones are already threaded. Funny how stuff works out, it was and 1982 model. Now more waiting, I might have to pull the scope off my 270 and play musical scopes. Don

From everything I was taught, proper headspacing should always be done with the barrel off the receiver no matter if it is short, long chambered, or just a blank. Chambers and tenons should be cut in a lathe with the bore lined up concentric and axially (probably spelled wrong). After the receiver is trued measure from the bolt face to the outside, then measure from the outside to the inner torque ring in 3 places (98 mausers). After doing your math and you know your tenon length and your headspace requirements. Insert the go guage into the pre chambered barrel, measure, and correct the overall chamber and tenon size. Either up or down depending if it is a long or short chamber. I always use the inner torque ring as my bearing point and cut the tenon .003 longer, so it just looks like there is no gap but doesn't actually bear on the outer ring. I am a firm beleiver in not hand cutting a chamber, too easy to bell out the mouth. If I use any prechambered barrels I prefer long chambered, if you are spending the money to have it prechambered why would you want to pay for a reamer too? Plus with the tolerances on reamers, you can't guarantee you will get a good chamber, your remer could be smaller than the barrel maker's reamer. The same reamer should be used from start to finish (other than a rougher). Short chambered barrels serve one purpose, they allow a guy without a lathe to get a reasonable accurate job done by hand, if you own or have access to the tools, why use one? I chamber all barrels in the lathe and make sure anyone else doing my barrels does the same. Don

http://www.4-dproducts.com/ Never had an issue with them. Fred is good to deal with. Don

Makes sense. I would start getting your barrels threaded and long chambered. Set the head space in the lathe without the cost of a reamer. You used to be able to get them from shaw, douglas, LW and a few others. I think you will like the results better and they are usually the same price long or short chambered. Don

Great little write up. One question though, if you own a lathe why chamber by hand? Actually why not save a few and just get a blank? Don

2-3 month isn't bad. Most professional gunmakers (not gunsmiths) have a lead time close to that in years. Don

I found an old Bushnell Sportview scope that I forgot I had. It was an a donor rifle I bought years ago. I slapped it on but couldn't get the low mounts to work, so instead of ordering new rings I scalloped the handle. Perfect clearance now. Rifle w/scope came in at 7lb 14oz. So even though I still need a front sight insert and a rear peep installed, I think it will be under the 8 pound goal I had. One of these days I will need to repark the bolt. Boresighted, now I need to go to the range to see if a free barrel shoots. If it doesn't I have 6 more to try. Don

Yes Winston Elrod is going to do it for me. Probably in the next few weeks. I told him nothing fancy, just a std 4 panel point pattern. He'll come up with something great I'm sure. I think I will drop it off this weekend. He told me 4 hours, hows that for turn aroud, it will take me 3 to drive back in forth. Of course his checkering will put my stockwork to shame. Don

Removable back up peep. I made it the same as talley does, except to fit the smaller dovetails of the PME ring I'm using. The apeture is from a local shop, can't remember what I paided but under $20. I also have one with the fiber optic dots on each side of the ring. Don

Yes. I've used that stuff before. Actually the teflon bake on stuff from brownells. I don't have an electric oven anymore. I don't think putting it in the gas oven would be a good idea. If you have any in matte black and want to do it when you do some of your own parts let me know. Don

AZ, hope you feel better quick. Tony, maybe you just need to have the last word all the time. One of those guys! Don

Jeff I can't take credit for theat bolt job. It was done Rod about a year before I got my TIG machine. Probaby 5-6 years ago. As for the stock my layout was good but I lost a little of the sharpness on those transitions. But I've seen worse, I've done worse. Don

Thanks Jeff. I was referring to the little folding peep that mount to the scope base. They were about $10 or so. Like these. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=1199700&filter=folding%20peep%20redfield Don

Well I had to park some other parts so I dropped this at the same time. That a $10 for a can of plastic primer and a can of spray paint I hit the $75 mark, if I did my math right. The levers on the bases won't park. I don't know what they are made of. I guess I should have pulled them before I bead blasted. I got the floorplate installed and beaded everything. I need to get a can of alumi hide next time I order from brownells for the bottom metal and I guess I can hit the levers with it too. Still need a rear sight (probably put one of those old redfield folding peeps on the rear base),a front sight (fiber optic?), and a scope. Don

Been about 6 years but I finally got my .30-06 on a 1909 action done. Stock didn't come out as good as I hoped but alot better than my last couple. Now I just need my scope to come back from Leupold service and I can see how she does. Don

An argie follower will have a + sign on it. Don

Steel is the same too. Just a lot less material removed per pass. Nice thing about the steel weaver stock I got is that the dovetails are cut but no sighting groove or cross slots. Gives you the option to do whatever you like. Instead of doing the tradtional flat bottomed sighting groove I thought the half moon would be different. Don