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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

donmarkey

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Everything posted by donmarkey

  1. What is the twist rate of the shilen? Don
  2. While trying to finish up another project. I found the shop that originally installed the scope mounts got the rear hole off by .030". Looks as they tried to correct it by up sizing the hole to 8-40, but still off. Since The friend of mine who owns it wanted to use a NECG back up peep sight I had laying around, I ordered some premade weaver stock from brownells. I figured no need to make something you can easily buy. Made both bases and offset the rear hole in the back base to line everything up with the bore. Didn't turn out to bad. Don
  3. Carbide endmill. No need to drill it first. Just use a center cutting endmill. Once you break thru the crust you will find its not all that hard anyway. Don
  4. That's an easy fix buy a swede follower or at least a standard 98. The argie follower is set up for more case taper. Don
  5. I was thinking about carrying the line over from the front of the guard to the bow. Use that line as the peak and taper everything outside of that down to just shy of a feather edge. Maybe .050" or what ever looks good. Then tapering the front to match. Don
  6. Shouldn't take that long with a propane torch. Did you remove the set screw? Don
  7. 6 months? I have projects going on for more than 6 years! Don
  8. I know how you feel, I has an 06 on a 1909 I've been working on for about 4 years. Finially got it to the point I could sent to out for bluing. About 10 coats on the stock and 30 or so more to go. Hope to have the stock ready to drop the metal in when it comes back but I doubt it. Sometimes you just have to force yourself to do something. I end up working on other peoples project so much I seldom get time to do my own. Don
  9. Well I got the leupold qr bases for $15 from the bargin bin at cabelas and a set of rings off of gb for $10 shipped so now I am at $65 total. I recut the bottom of the front base as low as I could get it, but the rear base was going to still be too low. So I pulled the lever out or it and made a new base. I like this one better anyway as it doesn't block as much of the loading port. I'll clean up the sharp corners when I get it ready for finish. Don
  10. Only person I've used for color case is turnbull. Probably right on the cost. PM sent on the lining. Don
  11. Worked on the floorplate a little today. Got it hinged, now I need to work on the latch. Don
  12. No I didn't get anything, go to my profile and just click on my email address. Easier that way. You need to remember though that the yugo is safety breeched and standard 98 barrels don't work as is. They need to have the breech ring and extractor cuts made. Or you need to swap the bolt out with an intermediate oberndorf bolt that has the case guide protrutions. Depends on the barrel and if your bolt matches which way is cheaper/better. Anyway a new rifle will always be cheaper than sporterizing a military mauser. Heck there is a brand new never shot CD mauser in 7 rem mag done at cabelas right now for under $350. I almost bought it yesterday just to part out. Don
  13. No idea, I just got the bolt to install the handle and side swing safety on. Never asked. Don
  14. Even though I'm not a fan of them, I know other poeple like them. I made this one recently for someone and tried to do something to make them just as functional but not so ugly. Here is what I came up with. Normally I would have made it lower but I was matching the original forged bolt's height. Don
  15. I know several people you can send those actions to that will correct the feeding. Probably end up costing a few hundred though when it is all said and done. Is it worth it? Very common to not feed under all that pressure if everything isn't perfect. You have to remember they made those actions the same no matter caliber it was, other than mag and non mag. Rod, what the heck kind of hunting you doing with that 300wh that you need 4 anyway? I only need 1 in my 300 h+h. Don
  16. Usually when I am deer hunting I only put 2 or 3 in the anyway. But that sounds like a rail problem, if you put in a stronger sping it could get worse. One of those thing where you need to see in person to really have any idea of the solution though. Don
  17. Exactly, and I would pull theat barrel while you are waiting for the knew one. That way you can finalize the inletting in the receiver area. You need to make sure it is sitting in the stock flat no rocking on the front pillar. There should be a gap and the mag box shouldn't contact the receiver. By the way I'm in you area if you need help with that bolt. I'm a few miles from metro airport. Don
  18. Looks great, I wish everyone paid attention to where the lug seat is before they drilled. Don
  19. email sent. Either way, just swap or if all you need is the pin swap and some cash for the rest. Don
  20. If you still need one for your turk mauser and want to trade let me know. I have them for both short and standard turks. Don
  21. I don't think you could reinstall the sight without scratching up the duracoat. It is just a surface coating anyway so no need to not do it as an asembly. It's nice to find out an old barrel still shoots good. Don
  22. Yes it is and no not yet as I like to do that in the bedded stock to make sure it is perfectly flush. I mark it cut it close then finish it up by hand thru the floorplate opening in the stock. Rules out any shifting the parts do when tighened in the bedded stock. Thinking of cutting chamfers on that floorplate instead or rounding it, be a different look. Haven't decided, dont know how the corners would turn out. I could always round it over later if it doesn't look right. Don
  23. That's my goal away. This is a project that I have had on the bench for a while to work on in between other projects. Started with a $60 turk mauser the I sold off all the parts except the bolt and ejector box for $90. So that gave me $30 for the PME safety kit. I normally would have sold the bolt too, but this one had a nice czech bolt already as I won't weld a turk bolt. Bolt handle and timney trigger was picked up in a parts lot for free since I sold the rest of the lot for a profit. Rem 700 take off I got for free, hopefully it with shoot. I picked up this guard for about $10 since it was missing the floorplate. So I started to cut I new one when I was making a couple oberndorf plates for a customer. Picked up a Butler Creek stock for $30, trued up the front and rear rings and drilled and tapped it for scope bases. So far I have $40 in it but still have a way to go. I'll have to see, still need a scope, rings and bases. That will be the big ticket items. I did get a set of Leupold QR bases out of the bargin bin at cabelas I could recut the bottoms to fit the mauser. Still up it the are about that one, but I know I don't like weaver rings or bases but I want quick release and the others might put me over the price mark. Don
  24. Just look at the prices empty stripper clips sell for on ebay. Surplus stuff is out of control. And I used to just throw them on the ground at the range to be swept up wit the brass. Don
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