donmarkey

No but how much of a hurry are you in. I need to repair some electronics on my machine to thread but should be up in a few months. I have a few to cut also so I could add yours to the run easily enough. Don

I just used a conversational program I wrote. But you can get the full g code online. I have the link saved but can't think of the site off the top of my head. Don

Fyi 80% lowers can be found for $30. Takes me 12 mins of machining time to complete one with my mill with about an hour of set up. If you have the tools for most other machining nothing else is needed. A few drill bits and end mills is it. With a set of prints which you can get free you don't need a jig. Now without a mill I wouldn't think about it. But it is a fun project. Don

That is common with ebony designed for wood turning like the stock you get from woodcraft. There was someone selling black laminated pieces somewhere. I wanted to try some but forgot where I heard about them. Don

MI did the same thing recently in the shotgun zone. But here there is no list of cartridges. It states .35 or bigger and min case length of 1.16 and max of 1.80. So I guess I can't use my .45-70. Since I don't own enough land in the shotgun zone to hunt on I never gave it much thought. I think you have to be crazy to hunt public land in southern Michigan. So many people I won't even bow hunt here anymore. Don

320 for rust bluing. Then gray scotchbrite. Don

The 1 is for the bottom round. The .866 is for the cosine of 30 degrees which is the portion of the round not on top of the bottom round. Don

Sorry I forgot to post .866 x dia + dia. So Base .473x.866+.473=.883 width rear Shoulder .441x.866+.441=.823 width at shoulder.

Email sent. Don For those watching. Width at rear 1.866 x case head or belt Width @ shoulder 1.866 x shoulder diameter The rest is simple math Just adjust length first as it is a taper. Exact width isn't as critical as the correct taper. If you need to make the mag narrower just keep in narrower at all dimensions. If narrow at the front and correct at the rear as when using a military box for a std case. It will pinch the front and feeding will suffer. How much depends on the individual rifle. But even if you think it feeds good. It will feed better if sized right.

Too narrow at the front so the stack isn't correct and the shoulders are rising. The rounds should touch at the base and the shoulders. Send me an email and I will send you a drawing and better description along with the mathematical formula for proper sizing. Don

Get a mark x follower.. They are thinner. But it is the mag box not stacking the rounds correctly that is probably causing it. But if it feeds good the thinner follower is the way to go. If you have feeding issues by the time they are fixed I'd bet number five goes in easier. Don

I've had a couple with set back. I tend to get any 1909 I build on recarberized. Don

I would be will to buy a couple for resale if the price comes in right. Put me down for around $100 investment. More if you can get the price down. Don

Parts are $30 each unit and at that price I am making about $25 an hour. Less than I make at my full time job. They are labor intensive. First you have to strip and anneal the shroud and make a plug for the rear on the lathe. Then drill and tap for the pivot screw. Remove the plug and open up half the pivot hole for the shaft clearance. Then reinstall the plug and cut the 1/8" slot for the wing. Next cut the side clearance with another cutter. Then for the hand fitting. Each step takes a difference setup with different tooling. And each shroud is different enough that hand fitting is necessary. On top of that I have over a grand in jigs and tooling. And the slot cutters only last so long. I prefer 3 position units nowadays as they take 1/3 of the time to install. Less than double the cost in the long run. Don

I do. But it isn't cheap to do. For three you are looking at $315. Thanks Don

Also does it feed the same with one round or three in the mag? It should, if it feeds any different then the follower could be wrong. And or weak spring as stated earlier. Don

Response to dr Hess in feeding issue. Feeding issues are the hardest thing to try to explain without being there in person. The most helpful thing I can say is grab an original 98 and some military ammo, load the magazine up and work to bolt and analize what the bolt, extractor, and feed rails are doing at each part of the loading. You will see the rails direct the shoulder of the case and the extractor grabs the rear all at specific times. Now lay your new round next to the military round. Is it longer? Fatter? Different shoulder location? The round still need to move correctly, so if the shoulder is forward the rail needs to be adjusted so the case is in the same orientation as the original. Same goes for the overall length, if the oal is longer the. You need to have the rail basically do their thing that much sooner to prevent the tip from slamming into the barrel tenon. I start working on feed issues in this order, some are irrelevant to dr Hess's issues so skip those. 1 Mag box, if the mag box isn't 100% sized right everything else is a moot point. Use the cosine rule and get the box right or at least the taper angle right. The overall width can be fudged. 2 extractor fit. 3 rail to box fit. If you modify to mag box, the bottom of the receiver needs to be cut to match. This I consider the feed rails 4 feed lips. Just as in a clip the thin edge of the feed lips guides the round. This is what need to be shaped to the new case by the adjust a little, test, adjust, test and so on method. No real blueprint to use here. 5 follower. This needs to hold the case the same as a round under it would. Clear as mud? Don

Call Jim he still makes them. Brownells just dropped it for lack of sales. Last time I talked to him he said he still makes them. And the lever is the same as the Springfield kit. Just the same parts are different. Easy parts to to make. Don

Depend what you want to spend but Lapour makes a real nice 3 position safety the has the gas flange and converts it to coo. As for the Dayton kit, you should be able to use a timney trigger. I use timney triggers with their enfield kit with no issues. But all in all if you want a win70 safety you will be farther ahead with the Lapour. Factor in the price of the Dayton kit and the Wisner safety kit and you are halfway to the price of the Lapour. And the Lapour is less work then the other two combined. Don

Tony, I sent you something a weeks or so ago. Let me know if it didnt go thru. Don

Bed the action again. The action is moving, which allowed the wedge to split the stock. If you don't bed it right cracks will probably appear in other areas like the tang. Don

This is the type I made. I probably have a couple left somewhere if you are interrested. More the brno type though. Don

Yes that is a good way to handle the hole and the stamping is generally shallow so I wouldn't worry about affecting anything by turning it off. Actually most mil barrels handle recontouring pretty well. Is is usually just the low quality commercial barrels like a&b and shaws that don't like being turned. But every barrel is different. Don

I haven't used a spacer in over a decade. But trends change. It used to be white lines and rollovers. Now it seems to be back to the classics. Don

They look kind of neat from the pics, let us know how they work. Still trying to picture a golf club bench, I'll have to google it. Don