donmarkey

Can't picture it. Can't you just hold the pieces in place with one hand and just tack them with the other? Or weld up a jig to hold them out of angle iron and you can reuse the jig for another one? Trying to visualize it. Don

A 3mm endmill is better than a drill. The endmill won't try to pull into the low spot on the broken tap and is a hair smaller than the #31 so you have less chance to damaging the threads. Don

Just use a punch. But most of the time you will need to redrill and tap oversized, either to #8 or to the special oversized size brownells sells. I tap extractor is my first go to before trying to shatter out a tap. Usually then you can just retap the same size. You can get them from brownells or msc. Or pm me your address and I can lend you mine. Note this is why I never use a tap twice on a receiver. I save the used taps for general shop stuff or truck guns. Good custom stuff warrants a new tap. Don

I don't know for checkering only, I think he charges like $4500 to completely stock a rifle. I know more than I can afford. You should see my Win88 that he refinished and recut the checkering. That used to be my brush gun, I need to rethink that now. I'll get some pics up in the next few days. That one cost me a couple bolt jewelling and a surface grinding job. Don

Got it back from the checkerer, not bad for free. Well not totally free, I had to make a set of scope mounts in trade. Don

It can be done, but not fun. The one I did I made some pillars and pillar bed the stock, cutting off the original pillar in the guard. Would I do it again? probably not. Don

I don't see an issue if it doesn't break when you remove it. Unfortunatly you are going to have to remove it to polish it and the bolt under it if you ever want to smooth out the action. I don't know the exact process they use but when the bolt was reheated to temper it the collar very well could have softened up more than the bolt since it's size. Don

What is the "barrel accessory program"? Don

Most barrels are pulled for a reason. I don't use used barrels unless I a find a deal I can't pass up. So a custom barrel with a rib that is worth getting rebored or something like that. Or a $25 special for a truck gun that can be thrown away if it doesn't perform. Don

Funny, I never used one for a 8x57. Don

No but out hunting I use them to hold extra rounds in my pocket or in the cab of the truck. Keeps them handy and prevents them for rolling around. Don

The one's I've gotten back were mostly just discolored, no major scaling. I could basically repolish again starting at 220 grit. Don

Not a drop in but great american gunstocks list them in there clearance section last I looked. Don

Brenden. What I do is generally cut the 30 deg angle and then recut the sear ledge to get the proper engagment. If you go too far on one or the other just cut the opposite one. Once the angle cut is done. Put the bolt together in the action, measure with a depth mic how far the cocking piece is cammed back. If not between .015-.025, cut the sear ledge the difference. Break the edge with a stone when you are done. Don

If your math is right (too lazy to double check it) then you should have no problem with a rem700 rethread as you can push tenon back on the barrel quite a bit and still have a large enough shank for a non magnun. Don

Nice little mix of the classic and modern. Looks good. Don

That is the advantange to using a custom bottom metal. Makers like Blackburn put the rear wall back where it should have been in the first place. You still need to remove metal from the front, but not to the scary extreme FN did. Don

Don't know but I do know the dimensions of the brownells ones are on the site. Of I can measure the one I made, I know I used the dimensions from brownells so I could use there heads if I needed an odd one or hard to machine one. Don

Timneys I think you can just remove the lever altogether. With some of the others like the marks you need the lever there so other adjustments (overtravel I think). In that case just put it in the off position and cut the lever's buttom off below the stock line. That is what I did to the lase mini mauser I fit a gentry safety to. Don

I do the bulk metal removal of the underside of the rails to match the mag box in the mill. For the lip and fine tuning a carbide burr in the dremel but mostly just files and stones. Don

Both, the red will help relieve the pinch point at the front and the yellow will allow the case to rise up sooner and get under the control of the bolt. Just be carefuly only remove a couple thouands at a time and check feeding. To give you an idea of how slow I'd go, I would probably have the rifle apart and back together 100 times before I was happy. Try to remove too much at a time and you are sure to fail. Each time watch the case and how it moves on the rails and up the bolt face. After awhile you will see what needs to be done by how the cas reacts to where and how much metal you remove. When you get one rail closer switch to the other rail as they will effect each other a little. Don

Being single didn't last long. I guess I like to be punished. Maybe that's why I'm back to working on guns. Don

Probably not to this extreme, but you get the idea. Don

You are creating a pinch point up front there, plus the rail needs to be opened a little before where the case rim is now to allow it to rise sooner. Also as Bill stated the extractor probably needs work as I would think the bolt should be in control of the case by that point and not allow you to pull the bolt back and just leave the case there. Raidus the edge, but more importantly relieve the back side at the edge to make a funnel to guide the rim into position. When you work the rails be carefule to not open them up too early and the rail needs to hold the case until it is in the control of the bolt and extractor. When you look rom above it sould be bellied in the middle and not triangler or curved in only at the front. Clear as mud? Don