donmarkey

Bill if I could get to SC I would be taking some classes. I'm always looking to learn and farther my knowledge. Actually yours is probably the closest school that teaches gunsmithing. Don

I don't think so. Ross Billingsley, if you get on the ACCG web site and do a member search he will pop up. If not let me know I have his phone number around here somewhere. Don

The little pieces can be bought from Billingsley. They are the same people that make the bolt handles for brownells. I tig weld them on. The trigger is sold by Alaskan Arms and was designed by Paul Dressel. It can be bought from them or from Brownells. Don

I don't post here much anymore but I was putting a couple of these together and figured you guys might like to see. Don Setting it up in my fixture First Weld Finished welds Here she is after cleaning it up

You need to open the feed rails. The 243 is a pretty straight walled case and the rails need to be opened to allow the case to rise sooner. Don

They vary, but not by a lot. You won't know til you try, might drop right in. Shouldn't be anything a dowel and piece of sandpaper can't fix if it doesn't. Don

I should have some original FN blocks left. If not I know I can get you one. But I would try it without first. Blocks are overrated and are usually used as a quick fix when it is the feed rails that should be work for reliability. Don

I have found the same issue with bold as Bill did. My preference in triggers is Blackburn, ERA, Timney featherweight, Timney Sportman and then bold. I have used a couple Alaska Arms triggers recently but haven't spent much time shooting them, so I am still debating that one even though I like the design the best. As for the original issue, the FN sits farther back in the bow than the K98 does as the 98 is designed for the more forward guard bow of the KAR98. FYI the sportsman seems to me to be in between the two in placement. Don

Ian you are on my list, just been too busy to even think lately. 60+ at work and way too much else going on. Don

Not anymore. Now I'm spending time dodge bullets. We have a gunman shooting cars on the road I take to work. Don't you love loonies! Don

The metal was hot blued by Bill Jacobs (clemson on this site) and the stack was a highly modified richards here is a pic before I remove a few pounds of wood. BTW so far it shoots about 1" groups with 52 grains of IMR4350 behind a 180 gr nosler partition. Still tweeting the load but not bad for a $69 barrel. Thanks, Don

How do you do a simple hardness test on a pack hardened action? Don

Rod, I have a 300 h+h you can add to the list if you don't have one. It's be a couple months before I can sent it your way though. Don

I will vote on that one. It's not an action strength issue, it is chamber wall thickness. Think about it, look at how much material you remove from a rem700 barrel to rethread for a turk. Don

Besides last I checked you can get a #2or3 barrel installed for under $250. shaws website says $170 for a short chambered barrel and you still need to fit the thing. Don

IT+D will do enfield barrels, you need to call though. Shaw and a+b are ok barrels along the quality of factory prodution gun barrels. Just for a few buck more you can get a lot nicer douglas or shilen barrel. Don

The older metal coat hangers worked just fine for bolt welding. It's those new plastic ones you need to stay away from. Don

Yes looks as you need more heat to get better penetration. Was that OA welding? Don

He's been out of town, came back a few days ago. I don't know how often he checks in here, let me know if you need his number or email. I know he is backed up on work now. Don

Bill Jacobs (clemson) does it. So does several others, let me know if you need some more contacts. I do it in the mill and finish with stones by hand. Don

IMO a small ring 98 is, but a pre-98 isn't. Which small ring you looking at? Don

Pull the bands and the handguard off if you tring to see if it is a stock unduced pressure issue. You will get a closer indacation of what is going on. Tighen the guard screws and then loosen them one at a time and see if anything moves. If it does the stock is inducing pressure on the barrel. Don

As GN said the cocking cam just pulls the cocking piece back. On a cock on close action like the swede you won't notice the effects of a soft cam as much as a cock on open action. The extraction cam on your bolt was heated though. That also isn't as noticable in a c-o-c action since you aren't trying to fight the forces of cocking and extraction at the same time like a c-o-o action. Don

Yes where the color didn't change there was no change in the temper. I see the cocking cam is still bright, I good indacation that it was done right. Don

Both can do a successful job. But bolts are very sensitive to heat so either way you go you need to first learn proper welding skills and learn how to determine the if the bolt was compomised in hardeness. Learning the color spectrum for tempering is good for more than welding, it will help you reharden parts, along with tempering springs etc. Don