albertashooter

i've heard that if you peen it with a small hammer while its on the barrel it will expand it enough to slide it farther down. that wouldn't work it it was already to small to fit over the barrel. then file & sand any marks out This is the way I fit them. Use a old barrel as a mandrel and peen the band with a smooth face hammer. No need to heat it . Just do it cold.Do not be scared to hit it. This will displace steel and stretch the band. You can go expand to the next NECG size easily. You will need to polish out the hammer marks If I had a sight kicking around that needed to expand a lot I would turn a aluminum bar to match the barrel taper and perhaps 10 thou smaller than where you want the band to sit. Split the band on the bottom and clamp to the aluminum bar and weld. Clean up the weld and it as above.

I assume it is the same basic design as the rest of the Chinese hobby lathes so I would recommend that you join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe2/ and http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/ and go through the files especially the rebuild manual. A ton of good info there.They are a great bunch and can provide you with a lot of help and answers.A little searching through the posts can net you a lot of info also

as far as dialing a four jaw goes, like most jobs , it's using a organized approach. I use a slightly modified version of the instructions down in Chris's tips toward the bottom of the page. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/prod...egory=566826475 You would be amazed how quickly you can center something that way.

Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the responses.

I have a buddy who picked up a 303 savage and is now considering optoins for brass.There are some suppliers advertising but so far are out of stock.Any hints onobtaining brass or how to form it from another case would be appreciated. I am slightly jealous. When I was a young and foolish lad I did not find the 99s very appealing but now I think they are pretty cool kind of like old mausers. I especially like the older models.Amazing the perspective that a few years brings.( maybe more than a few)

Man, but that was a nasty post in terms of spelling, grammar, etc. My old English teachers must be blushing at the moment.I really need to drink my morning coffee before I start typing.

The feeds only to the left is only a disadvatage if you need to cut left hand threads which is a pretty rare thing.If you ever need to, it is pretty strait forward to build a tumbler reverse to allow you to be so.I built a tumbler reverse for mine and only used it once. My lathe is essentially the same as the Grizzly except for one item.The Grizzky uses half nuts for threading and a worm gear set-up for the power feed. My lathe uses the half nuts for both with a different gear set-up for the power feed.I choose my lathe for this reason with the reasoning that if a lathe is going to be inexpensive that simplicity means less to go wrong and less things to have to aline yourself. Also the worm gear set-up need a key way machined in the shaft and these lathe a infamous for the level of deburring that the threads need were they meet the hey. Your choice but I think I made the right one although I have nothig to compare to.I have ordered extra gears from Grizzly and they fit right on.I obtained the parts manual forn Griizzly and even the part numbers are the same for each machine. either lathe would easily handle the list of jobs you mentioned within the barrel size limitations I had previously listed. One other point is that neither lathe has power cross feed. I do not feel that this is a major item and would not be used in the jobs you list gut I fely I should mention it. Also for the record, these are the tune up items I had to perform on mine Aline the three way. Mine came wobbled by at least .1 inch. 45 minute job Aline the feed screw. 1 hour make a new feed screw pin 30 minutes I think that is all that I did that was truly necessary. I built a lot of my own tooling such as a quick change tool post system, boring bar holders, Dremel holder etc but a lot of that was not necessary as such but makes that lathe mors convinient to use and is, I feel a good way to learn and get confortable with your lathe. http://www.bedair.org/9x20.html http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe2 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/links I have include some links to the web pages I had previously mentioned in case you had trouble finding them. I would especially check out the rebuild manual and the tricking out manual in the files of the 9x20 lathe2 site . a ton of good info in there.Please feel fre to contact if you have any more questions.

Sorry I was not clear. I was trying to give you some idea of your lathe capabilities.As the 10x22 has the same 1 inch bore as my 11x27 it can mount the same barrel contours through the headstock. My lathe though is long enough to contour a 26 inch barrel blank. The 10x22 could only do a 22 inch blank. That is what is what I was trying to say. To expand a little on threading and chambering capability, I think I could with the use of the steady rest and a little set up handle a contoured blank that was 1 inch in diameter 16 to 20 inch from the chamber end.I hope that makes sense. The range is caused by the reamer length difference in different cartridges. with the 10x22 subtract 4 or 5 inch from that mearurement On the other hand a 12x 36 will do almost any job that a gunsmith would want to do.

I own this lathe http://billstoolcrib.com/Lathbir1120.htm which as you can tell is the same as the 10x22 with about 5 inches of bed. These lathes are a excellant value for a hobbyist as long as he is realistic in his expectations. What you are getting is a well engineered lathe design(cribbed from EMCO) that is sloppily executed.There is a reason they sell for 10% of what a 10 inch new Southbend does.IF you view these lathes as a kit that is not yet quite finished you are pretty close.If you believe that you should get a heavy 10 equivalent for a $1000.00 you are sadly mistaken.However once you get one tuned they are capable of really fine work.A friend of moine has a 9 inch southbend and as they sit mine is a better lathe, all due to the time I spent on it. If you get one or even now ,go to yahoo groups and join the 9x20 and the 9x20(2) groups and read all the files there, especially the rebuild manual.also check out Steve Bedairs lathe pages. The 9x20 series lathes are the same basic design and share the same values and the same flaws.The biggest flaw is the componnd clamp.If you buy this lathe check out the john pitkin(iI think that is right) in the 9x20 groups file page. I made a similar design and it was a massive improvement. The upside to doing that wosk is you will really learn your lathe in a way many operators do not. Enough size is always a problomatic decision with a lot of factors to consider such as available room,cost, power requirements and supply and ability to handle the weight as well as what you mean by gunsmithing and the work you intend to do and where your interests take you. with my lathe I can easily mount a #5 contour through the headstock(that is the biggest I have done. how much bigger I could go I am not sure) so that that 10X22 should do the same. with the extra lenghth on mine I could contour a blank something the Griz could not.I surely could not put a blank through the headstock. To thread to a shoulder I have made a hand crank that I now prefer to threading with power. Almost impossible to make a mistake. As far as used lathes go, people seem not to realize that not everyone lives back east or near a industrial center where the used lathes seem to be.I live in southern Alberta and I search in vain for two years for a decent used lathe of decent size and on decent running order.If I had not purchased mine when I did It would now be 4 years as I still have seen nothing come up in a decent driving range.

IF I was going to make a fixture for the lathe to hold a receiver I would build something like this http://www.gtrtooling.com/prod05.htm but I would build it to thread directly on the spindle instead of using a 4 jaw assuming of course that your lathe has a threaded spindle. As a alternative approach make a piloted tap using the lathe. You could really do it right and make, taking a page from doble troble, also make a piloted reamer to clean out the old theads and open up the hole to the root size of whatever thread you pick.

724 Sorry I just noticed that Sporter Express has them listed as backordered as well.Perhaps they could give you a estimated delivery date.

724wd Try here http://sporterexpress.com/v2/ and look under trigger guards. Walnut Out of curiousity does the kit provide for some sort of center catch to minimize the risk of accidentally moving the lever sideways and dumping the shells.Always seemed to me the biggest potential problem with these.

Going back to the original posting,what do you guys think of using a bushing over the original barrel shank and threading it to LR. Would probably have to rethread the original shank to something like 15/16 x 20 and make a bushing that was threaded to match. Loctite on and then cut your LR threads. Any opinions.

I was using the word action as this is a sporterizing board and it might be useful info rebarrel or not.I do not at present have a Eddystone action but have seen them for sale from time to time(certainly more common than Win or Rem) and wanted to know the poop.More curiousity than anything. Seems the general concensus is that if it has not cracked up to now it is unlikely to and it would be safe to use. The over tight barrel theory is only one of the possible explanations for the cracking I have found on the net. To much sulphur in the steel is another as is the foreman who believed in heat treating by color instead of using the furnace thermometer and any fancy engineered spec .Another is that the thermometer was used to spec but that the spec was too hot and overhardened the steel. Probably no one knows for sure.

I am just scratching a curiousity itch. I have read a lot of different opinions on Eddystone P17 and P14 and I was just wondering if there is somewhat of a concencus on the use of these actions. Should they be used and are they safe? Safe if they are magnafluxed or the problems,if they exist, were limited to a few odd actions and they are usable with a visual inspection? Whats the scoop?

Does anybody know safety/shroud on that Tom Burgess P17 can be found.Never saw one on a P17 before.Also is there a pic of the other side.Looks like the perch has beem eliminated and the bolt stop considerably midified.

Been gone for a few days and do I feel stupid .I have ordered from Western Gun Parts many a time and never gave them a thought. I have their reference manual and they show magnum followers for the Browning high power bolt rifle. I will call them in the morning.

DrScott Great job. The same look that I hope to achieve. Would any one know where I can find a Mauser magnum follower as Donmarkey suggests? I have been searching with no results.

Thanks, excellant advice on the replies.Very helpful.The action came with a prethreaded, short chambered .416 Rem barrel#5 contour.Although I would have prefered a .375 I will probably use what i got and put together a .416

i have picked up a BSA p17 that has been partially sporterized.The action has been steamlined and drilled and tapped for a scope and nicely blead blasted.It also been fitted with 3.60 inch commercial magazine box. However it has no bolt stop,extractor,mag spring,follower or any trigger parts. I was trying to put together a list of parts required to put this gun together and checking out Numrichs web site when I saw that they list the P14 eddystone and winchester followers seperate. They have no p17 parts listed. What is the difference.if any, between the two and which would work best for my application?Also if any one knows where there is a decent schematic on line for p17s,could you let me know. I have never had one apart before and it is hart to tell all I need to order.

I do not know if this would help anyone, but there is a way to use a smaller shanked barrel in a standard large ring Mauser. What you need to do is make a bushing that is threaded on the inside to fit the barrel and threded on the outside to fit the action and is locktited or epoxyed in place. The difference in thread size would have to be great enough that the bushing has some structural integrity. I have never done this but saw a posting by Bill Leepers where he stated that he had dome this many times without a problem. The post was regarding using a Remington barrel and Bill recommended turning the barrel shank to 15/16 by 20, I am guessing to have a bit of meat in the bushing. Bill has forgotten more about Mausers than most of us know and I would no problem in following in any of his reccommendations. I would however restict myself to standard cartridges same as a turk.

Thanks Z1R I read the post and all made sense. For a while I was under the impression the someone out there somewhere had the answer that I just could not see. I know there are a great many people out there( on places like this board) that know considerably more than me and it is always great to pick up a little of that wisdom.

What is 24hr CF. Out of curiousity, I would love to know the answers to those questions . I am aware that the proposed method I put forward is a attempt to get a general idea if the receiver shoulder is kinda square and not a precise method of squaring the action . Probably all the effort a turk is worth.however to get a really accurate and proper job is a very different kettle of fish.The only way I can think to mount the receiver to get acccess to the threads and c-ring is a cathead sized to fit.As far as indicating, that one has me stumped except for maybe building a mandrel for that specific receiver that extends far enough out of the receiver to be able to indicate near the receiver and also perhaps 8 inch in front of it. Seems kinda dicey to me. I do not think a Turk is worth this kind of investment unless as a learning and practice piece.

.009 out of square is a lot. That would cock the receiver out of line with the barrell about .081 in its 83/4 lenghth, I would think that is a visible amount . If you have the original barrel I would true up the shouder on the barrel, make sure it did not contact the inner ring and screw it on snug. Line it up visually and see if it is straight. I have heard that running a fine tight string from the top of the muzzle to the rear tang screw can help spot a out of line condition. If it is straight the outer shoulder should be true and you can go from there.Personally, I would try to find a way to true the inner c-ring in that case. however if ithe receiver is cocked the threads are out of line and to make things right you would have to find a way to recut the threads straight and then retrue the receiver from there. In both these conditions, is a turk worth the time and labour to you?