youngtrout

Hello, well its been awhile but I'm finally picking up my project again, a new house, with tons of work put things on the back burner for me My question, What angle do you guys usually mount the recoil pad in relationship to the barrel?? I don't have any factory stocks to measure? I started with 90 degrees using a square, I figured this a safe bet but for some reason it looks a bit weird For reference, its a richards montocarlo stock and a mark X (it took 22 weeks to get it by the way!!) but it looks alright, I think they always grade it a bit higher than what you get but my opinion thanks for any feedback!!!

Ask pointed out by zr1, pretty much the lightest weigtht stock you can find is a nice claro walnut stock, trimmed down, I have a few 24 ounce stocks,and one maple @ lighter than I want to post,,,,,plastic just puts you into weather proof,,,,not lighter,,,,,,,look at brownells numbers,,,you need to step up to a 300 dollar plastic stock to find weight savings, I've looked!!!

GAG has been a sore subject for me but I'll try to be breif. I ordered a stock for a mark X cut for a lefthanded shooter, right handed action, what I got was was less graded stock than what I paid for, (from their examples on website) To top it off it was cut as a 98 so the triggerquard cut was long at the front of trigger guard,,,,,,,then after really lookin the receiver and barrel channel was cut crooked, no kidding, if you run a straightedge centered in the srew holes it almost gets out of the barrel channel at the tip! So I call to get it returned, Henry makes a big deal about it but finally says ya, I send it back and wait,,,,,after a month with no contact I call and he says hes on it, but will need to charge an extra 60 bucks to "special cut" a stock,,,,I say fine at this point, I just wanted some return on my already 250 dollar stock,,,another month, call, moth , call, you get the idea, and it ticked me off because everytime I called it sounded like I was putting him out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,finally, 5 moths later I call, and finally just agrre to get the triggerguard cut fixed and send it back, at this point I felt like they would have kept my money either way!!! Well 10 months later I have my POS stock back, I kind of forgot about the inletting and realize I really can't put anything into it but a super heavy barreled blank,, so I take a pic of the barreled action in the stock, how far out it is and email them, of course the say I most likely staged the photo, it could not be that far out,,,,,,,,,,,i kind of say to hell with it,,,,,,they are no help,, will never do business with them again,, and would advise against it if asked,,,,,,,,give me richards,,,,anyother stock maker,,,,,just not them again,,,,,,,,,,,,I'm left with 280 dollars lighter in wallet for something i really cant use,,,,,terrible opperation in my book! sorry for the rant, still just leaves me sore!

Thanks bobvz!!!! It one of those timing issues, you want the action unfinished so you can get that nice sand to metal finish but you need the barreled action done to bed the action,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,then the worry of marring the surface if you were to mess up barreling,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I think this one will get hot blued, just think its the safest!!!! thanks for the feedback

Okay,,,,,,,maybe this beating a dead horse but I'll ask. I'm building a remchester and doing most of the work myself,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but ,,,,,,,right now I'm going to have my smith dial and finish the chamer (a bit different from the hand reams I've done in the past) And let him screw the tube down, mainly because lack of 700 tools So here is my question, I had planed to rust blue the project but I've read that the barrel and receiver should be rust blued separately then mounted. So would it be better to have a barreled action caustic blued or rust blued?????????? I'm looking for the cons of rust bluing a barreled action Would rust bluing basically ruin the action because of rusting the barrel and action together, maybe not ruin but cause some serious issues later with another rebarrel. Thanks for any feedback, just wanting to do the best job I can!!! And have more money in a 700 build than my last 2 mauser put together (thank you mauser gods!!) thanks for your time!!!!

I'll second the "WOW" very nice rifle there,,,,,nice work!

Why not the 22-250,,I have 2 in mausers, easy feed, no headaches, and great ballistics,,,not trying to change your mind, but just trying to help

Hello, not trying to hijack post, Z1R,,,,,where did you get the stock you have in the first picture? thats got to be the best rough turn I've seen! Thanks

no problem doble troble! I completely agree! It was more of a issue of time for me, we close on a house in the morning and the honey-does couldn't be longer, its a real fix-er-upper!! I ended up ordering a pinkleton product from brownells, the one that is supposed to mimic the acid finish, we will see how it looks, I'll also do the flame tech. ,,,,,,but first testing on a piece of scrap. well as promised, this is where I'm at with the stock, not really finish sanded,,,,hopefully I can take some hints from z1r and get something that looks even somewhat like his, not likely,,,,,,,,I'll post with progress.

I second everything, super nice,,,,,,,man how do you keep all thoese lines that sharp! very nice, hats off!

thanks for the offer doble troble, I'm certainly not going to make my own, and most likely red flagged for looking at site,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I think I need to stay with a more pedestrian approach or find a commercial product. Thanks z1r, thats some good reading, maybe I just need to find a place to buy some acid. When would a person heat the stock, before or after the stain went on, I know doble troble using the one solution heated after,,using the acid would it be better to flame first? man, did I open a can of rusty nails,,,,,,I'll post a pic of what I'm starting out with tonight!

thanks guys, I need to do a bit more research I have not found anyplace to actually purchase the stuff brownells sells a stain made by pinkleton (spelling) that is made for maple but I'm sure its not the same Tonight I will post a "before" pic, thanks again for the feedback

sparky, that was it, the link was no good on the old post, you talk about heating it, you are just heating it enough to get it hot??? Or do you actually see the thing smoke. I'll do a google search, but if you don't mind me asking what your recipie is?

Hello, I've been reading all the posts but thought I would pose a question of my own........I have a semi-fancy maple stock on a .308 turk project. I'm getting down to the finish, this stock is light, (light in color, I like my blondes but bleach blondes?) but has some really great figure. Usually I've just worked with walnut, and tung oiled them, or a similar product. I have seen great looking maple stocks but they usually have a darker finish,,,,,,,What I'm looking to do is to really bring out the figure that is here and darken the stock a bit. Some of the black powder rifle I've seem come to mind. I remember the old post, somebody posted a pic of a stock that actually used a type of acid to finish???? I guess I'm just looking for opinions, I'm somewhat set on darkening the stock but just want a product that will really pop the figure that is there but still be compatiable with oil finishes. Love to see any and all recipies for maple,,,,,,,would also love to see some pics. thanks for any feedback!!! Added a photo, not mine just something to look at.

Thanks bobvz That is basically where I am with the project, I figure If I end up using the action I will have the bolt and the reciever hardened. The pictures are after I lapped the lugs, I really was pretty gentle, there was already some initial setback, soooooooooo I have my eye on a vz-24 at a local gunshop, they are way too proud of it though, hopefully it will sit a couple of months and offer them less, thats how I got my last vz-24 (she is pretty, might actually have to leave this one intact though

Hello, I added some pics of the reciever. I guess I concluded setback by seeing the indents in the face, I guess no setback would be a flush surface, with maybe some wear marks, but the difference between serious setback and okay setback I do not know. Do the pics help, would love o hear from someone who ha looked through a bunch of these.....there is certainly some wear, but is it excessive?? thanks for any feedback

Hello, let me first fill you in on my project. I have a fn military 98, and my plan was to install a A&B 338-06 barrel, I lapped lugs and was getting about 75% but could not get any more so I called it good. There is some set back in the reciever. When I turned the barrel as far as I could I could see that is was not going to contact the inner C ring so I took it to a gunsmith to lengthen the barrel shank,,,,,and he flat turned me away and advised me to get a commercial reciever, he did all this with very little inspection of the reciever, I got the impression that maybe he does not like working with the 98's. I guess the question I'm asking is how can I determine the quailty and safety of the reciever. I know setback is a real issue. So with this reasoning should every action be scraped with some setback, In 10 mausers I've had the chance to look at at least 5 showed some signs of setback. Just trying to put my mind at ease

Well took the pluge and ended up with a Great american gunstock,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, just like the above post, I paid a little more than I figured I should but I hope to have a nice stick of wood!! I guess I'm a bit put out by richards, They do have nice wood but there is always some extra meat to them, and not a whole lot of shape, and phone skills seems to be somewhat lacking. GAG's seem to be a bit more streamlined, and super nice to talk with, felt confortable handing over my pay to play. I'll post with an image, its already cut so no 8 weeks, should have it next week! thanks

Thanks for all the great feedback, I have one of the boyds, pretty happy with it, ya the inletting was a bit sloppy but solved with a bit of a badding job. For this project I'm looking for a nice stick of wood, I wanted a fancy AAA but seeing they said thet didn;t have any,,,,,,,,,,,,,are blanks that different from left to right?????? The ones on ebay seem to be just thick slabs of wood, whats different from left to right??????? Still may go with a fancy A, they have a sale on them, with a C&R discount it's not that bad. thanks guys

Those are some pretty stocks! "dakotas on ebay" very nice, and I'll check sporter express also. I guess what really draws me to richards is the 50% off the seconds, I have had very good luck with these and without breaking the bank, do others offer SECONDS like richards thanks

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has any good resources out there for stocks. I had a second ordered from Richards but the told me they had no seconds for a left handed mauser, so back to the drawing board. I was looking at Great American Gunstocks, man do they have some pretty wood there! But they are a bit pricey. I was wondering if anyone out there has any resources or other outlets for rifle stocks, I have found a few others but would like to hear about some others. thanks for any imput

Man, you guys have me really wanting to get back on my 308 turk project. It is a maple fancy A from richards (blem of course) I was going to just tung oil it but those are some purty rifle fellas, Makes me think about staining, its a pretty light colored maple as maple goes but has some nice tiger striping. All post a pic when I get home.

vlad, or anyone else. I guess I was wanting to protect the lugs because they might be difficult to card after bluing, as for the barrel I just want to protect the bore. As for the barrel, there has been talk about putting laquer in the bore, I would like to avoid this, I was just going to be careful with the application, but would the boil off put some of the solution in the bore to cause rusting? My plan was after boil off to run a dry patch throught the bore. As for the action, yes I would love to have everything blued, for protection but worry about getting everything carded properly, there are a lot of hard spots to card sucessfully. As for the triggerguard, I was wondering if most take apart a hinged triggerguard before bluing. I read the saved post and feel comfortable with the process, but if anyone can help out with the nuts and bolts I would appreciate it.

Hello, I'm about to take the plunge and try to rust blue a rifle. I have read all I can, and I think I have the process down. I was wondering what people do with parts like the triggerguard and such. Do you take the guard down completely, ( I am bluing a mark X, hinged guard) Also the reciever, should the lugs be protected, how about the threads??? I will blue the barrel separately, is laquereing the barrel the best method?? Any tips would be greatly appriciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the imput!

thanks guys, I will do the hand laping direction, to ensure a good fit, like clemson said most likely it would screw on but I want to be sure, because I'll have a finish on the barrel. thank you for all the feedback