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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

carzngunz

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Everything posted by carzngunz

  1. I will throw in my $.02 here. I would definitely make sure the bolt is in the fully closed position first. I had a problem with one of these. I believe that I had to shorten the spring loaded plunger a little but it was more than an hour ago and I can't remember what the original problem was. My memory doesn't always work the way I would like!
  2. I have used a 4 1/2" side grinder with an 80 grit sanding disk to remove the bulk of the material and then finish up with a file. The trick is to keep the area you are grinding straight and not get the metal too hot. The sanding disk keeps the metal a little cooler than a regular grinding wheel. Do the flat areas first and you can remove most of the metal with the grinder. Do the top last and be careful of the radius. It is better to take the majority of metal off in this area with a file. I do some fab work and this comes pretty easy to me but you may want to practice on some scrap before you tackle a receiver with the grinder. As a side note you can constantly see your progress with the handheld grinder and thats not the case with a bench grinder. Good luck with your projects!
  3. The first K Kale rifle I bought had this same problem. The inner ring looked like crap in addition to being out of square. After I got it cleaned up and trued up I had a whole new problem. The extractor extended past the inner ring by .020". That means having to cut an extactor clearance slot in the barrel. This was all before I found this great place with all the knowledgeable people that hang out here. I never have used the receiver but have a Remington 30-06 barrel already threaded for it. So after all this just know that the receiver is salvageable but it may take more work (or money depending on your abilities) than it is worth. Personally the knowlege I gained truing up that receiver was worth more to me than it cost anyway. Good luck with your project.
  4. Post a picture of the threaded area so we can get an idea of what you are dealing with. Maybe it ain't so bad!
  5. I have to cast my vote for the 25-06 in the lighter weight category. It's my favorite all around cartridge for all the reasons Davis gave above, especially the 75gr V-Max. Although the Roberts would not be a bad choice either. For the larger caliber I have to vote for the Whelen. I just started on one myself. I like the availability of factory loaded ammunition especially if you do not handload.
  6. If you suspect that the screws are locktited in place it may help to strike the screw with a hammer and an old screwdriver after you heat it and before you try to remove it. If someone used the red locktite you will probably twist the head off of the screw before you get the threads to turn. I believe it takes about 400 deg. to break down the high strength stuff and a sharp hammer blow is usually required also.
  7. I believe that the headspace gages are the same for all of these but the reamers are all different. Headspace is measured from a point on the shoulder of the cartridge and I think all of those you listed use the 308 as the parent cartridge. I may be mistaken but I think that is correct.
  8. Great looking rifle! It's a good feeling when they shoot well!
  9. I've been reading these posts and I've got to tell you I really like this idea. One thing to keep in mind though is that a broach requires a lot of force and will probably need to be made so as to be adjusted in fine increments. You will not be able to generate much force with a come-a-long so you would probably want to keep your cutting depth to a couple of thousandths per pass. As for the lands, why not just use a piloted reamer? If the grooves were centered with a pilot then opening up the lands from the same center should work as well. You could probably use a machine reamer and modify it and add a pilot. It might save a little work over fabricating something from scratch. I'm just throwing out some ideas but I would love to see if this could be made to work. Keep us all posted. Scott
  10. carzngunz

    ATI stock

    fritz, I have found that sometimes it helps if you can do a little creative grinding with a die grinder, dremel, etc. and get the filler to key lock into the stock. Exactly opposite of what you want with the metal work.
  11. carzngunz

    ATI stock

    Speaking of bondo, something else that works as well as Acraglas is fiberglass reinforced body filler. It is cheaper and stronger but not lightweight. I probably wouldn't use it for bedding but it fills voids well. Nothing sticks to plastic very well, including the acraglas, but with some good prep work I have always had good results using it.
  12. spec4e4 I know its too late now but you should have sent your rifle to Low Tech in the first place. I feel sure you would have gotten your rifle the way you wanted it without all this welding foolishness. But there will be more opportunities. With mausers there are always more opportunities!
  13. That's one fine looking rifle! Congratulations!
  14. Very Cool! You should have at least hit him up for a "board member discount" though. By the way, where were you shooting?
  15. I also use business cards between the receiver and wrench. Never had any problems.
  16. fritz, I'm with you on this. The laws are contradictory and confusing at times. In the last few years the C&R laws have been clarified some, but there are still questions that come up all the time. As for you, unregistered guest, my comments really weren't aimed at you personally. After re-reading the post it does sound that way though. If you had registered a real name I probably would have used another generic name. My point was that no one should take legal advice from ANY anonymous source on the internet. Especially when the answers, no matter how difficult to sort through, are provided to you. Now some advice from me. Register a name and hang around. There are a lot of good and knowledgeable people here and just about everyone gets along well with each other. Everyone has something to share and there is always something to learn.
  17. I have been reading through all of this and it seems that this subject comes up a lot on almost every forum that deals with C&R firearms. I am not trying to be a "smart a**" with what I am going to say but it is hard to believe that so many people that take the time to become so knowledgeable about firearms don't do this. If you are going to have any type of FFL you need to read through both the Federal and State laws pertaining to firearms. The BATFE sends the books to every licensee covering both sets of laws. I know its boring, I know its hard to read, I know that sometimes you have to reread a paragraph several times to make sense out of it but ultimately you are responsible for what you do as a licensee. The BATFE doesn't make the laws, politicians do. They have as difficult a time trying to decipher some of this as we do. Most of the C&R laws are pretty clear if you take the time to read through them. The first time I looked through the book of "guidelines" or the BATFE's C&R book I found several mistakes. That is because I read the laws first and not their version of the laws. I see misquotes on the internet all the time too. You can look over the material and pick out the laws that pertain to collecting. It is only a small part of all these laws, but you are responsible for knowing them. If you make a mistake because "unregistered guest" told you to, he won't be the one held answerable to the authorities. If you take the time to do this, you will find that you will remember the things that pertain to you, and if you don't remember all the details you will be able to find the answers quickly. In addition you will quickly be able to spot the BS that people who really have no clue like to spout off. I am through ranting for now. Neither do I want to start a discussion of which law says what. I am not interested in participating in that one either. All I want is for everyone to take a little time to read and I can promise you that you will have a better feeling about what is expected of a licensed collector. Rant off, Scott
  18. I have to agree with zee on the fouling. My Shaw barrel isn't bad at all. With the exception of a 308 A&B barrel I got several years ago none of the other A&B's that I have used have fouled badly either. I lapped the one I had a problem with and it is still accurate and isn't fouled badly after 100 rounds of full pressure target loads. They have to be one of the best budget deals out there.
  19. I've got one in 25-06, 26" that puts 75 gr Hornady V-Max's into .3" groups all day. That's my coyote load. 120 gr Sierra Game Kings do almost as well but I am still working on those loads. I expect them to end up at least that good.
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