Spiris

Just a couple ideas to try. If you have 2 sticks of memory, swap them around. Does the machine emit multiple beeps when booting? Also, check the monitor cable for any bent pins. It's possible that the power supply is not functioning properly, can you swap a PS from another working machine? It's not too hard to change a PS. It's probably the most common failure on a PC. Spiris

Today I posted on deals page about 6.5x55 Mauser barrels from Kimber, cut down to 22" and there are a half dozen or so on Gunbroker.com. It should fit most small ring threaded Mausers with little alteration, including a 93 Turk. Spiris

Az, I've converted one of my two M44 to a sporter using an ATI Black syn. I did remove the bayonet bracket, which is pinned in two places. The pins are hard to see, with one vertical near the front sight and one horizontal back further on the barrel. I had to make a relief cut in the bracket along the barrel with my air grinder and used my arbor press to push it off. If you follow Steve Wagner's page, you'll see it can be replaced with a piece of pipe. I cut the OD on my Mini-lathe and drilled the inside with a 9/16" bit. I made it shorter and allowed room to use the cut off old front sight with a pin and pressed it on the barrel. I originally planned to scope it with a scout mount, but the scope ended up too high to use without a high cheek pad. Now it weighs a bit less, and is a quick handling powerful carbine with iron sights. www.gswagner.com/mosin-nagant/mnsporter.html Spiris

Ron, I have not done it myself, but I believe that you can fabricate your Fpin from the 98 length Fpin that you have. If you line them up together, I think all you need to do is add another groove with a grinder on the lower part to match your cocking piece. Then trim off the extra on the end. A couple years ago when the intermediate action parts got scarce, a guy was selling INT. Fpins that he fabricated from M98 Fpins on Ebay. 1903 Turk pins should fit too, but they are harder to find than 24/47 stuff. I hope this helps, and maybe someone will chime in to help. I see you did get help. They are a good bunch of guys here. Spiris

I've coated a few rifles that I have built, and I'm very happy with the results. It is more durable and not as prone to scratching as a straight blue job. The longer it sits, the harder the epoxy based coating becomes. I have a good compressor that works well with a Harbor Freight sand blaster and Lowes sandbox sand. I also use a HF air brush with the regulator set at 10lbs. The key to a good finish is CLEAN. I use carb cleaning spray for all the cleaning and fix a wire for hanging in the rear action bolt hole I use Lauer parkerizing concentrate @3 1/2 to 1 ratio of water to solution. I try to maintain 185-195 degree as I use it. Most of my actions are Turk Mausers with Remington barrels fitted and headspaced before finishing. I've been fortunate to get actions that do not need a lot of clean up to look good. I use HF 1" emery cloth in various grit to achieve the level that I want. The sand blasting takes care of most slight imperfections. My procedure is to polish barrel and action assembled as needed first, and I tape the inner action bolt rails prior to blasting as well as making wood plugs for the chamber and muzzle to protect through the whole procedure. 1/2" and 3/8" dowels work when belt sanded to proper fit and seal. Spray clean with carb cleaner and let it evaporate, then sand blast to a uniform look. Hang the assy with the wire through the rear action hole. I do not use a tank to parkerize. I'm able to parkerize with a much smaller quantity of solution. I heat the parkerizing solution in an enameled pan with a cooking thermometer and try to keep around 190 degrees on a camping gas stove. While heating the solution, clean the assy with the carb spray and DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL. Hold the assy by the wire over the parking pan, and using a small pouring utensil, pour slowly over the assy from the top, continue pouring repeatedly, all the while watching the temperature of the solution to maintain optimum temp. Depending on the metal, it will take 5-10 min of pouring to get the gray-green patina needed. If you have a tank, use it according to the instructions. It probably would be good to practice with something before doing the actual part. Don't forget the small parts you might want to coat. They can be put into the park pan. Be aware the next steps are time sensitive due to the paint being mixed with the epoxy. I find if you can hang the assy in the sun, the warm up will help prevent drips if you try to apply too thick. Clean the assy again before coating. Do not touch the metal without cleaning after. Fingerprints can leave oils that may not hold the paint. Practice with the air brush sprayer a little to get the light spray that works best. I usually apply 3-4 light coats with a minute or two between applications. If you remember nothing else, the word is CLEAN. No touching the metal to coat. Let dry in the sun if possible for an hour or two. I usually let it sit overnight before touching. It's not difficult really, just a little time consuming. Kind of like typing this. Spiris

AZ, if it's not too complicated, remove the muffler and look for a partially clogged exhaust port, and at the same time, check the piston for signs of seizure. That would be vertical striations on the alum piston and rings. Sometimes the rings get stuck in the ring grooves because of a partial seizure. Certainly, it sounds like the engine is ok cold, and is heating up to the point of partial seizure. It may be due to lack of proper oil/fuel mix at one point and subsequent damage done. Unfortunately, if you have piston damage, it will need repair or replacement. Most of the time, it's not worth fixing if you have scored the cylinder. As it's dogging out on you, does it help giving it a tiny bit of choke? Spiris

The current administration is not business friendly, and small business will not create jobs while huge tax increases are looming along with potential government mandates that small business will have shoved down their throats. Just another reason that business is moving jobs out of the country, to a more friendly environment. It's obvious business will not begin to flourish until obama is ousted in 2012. Better yet, the November elections will signal the shift to common sense. Glenn Beck makes sense, that's why the liberals hate him. Spiris “The trouble with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money” –Margaret Thatcher

I have a Turk Mauser that I parkerized and Duracoated in the SS color. It's an 8mm Mauser with a Swedish SR commercial barrel, bold trigger and Corelite stock coupled with a reworked trigger guard. I have since used lower scope mounts with a Tasco 4x instead of the 3-9x that's in the picture. A clean surface is the key to a successful Duracoat application. Spiris

You're coming along, Brenden, it looks like a pretty good fit in the stock. Don't forget the safety breech cut for the extractor and breech ring if it is a yugo bolt and you want to do it right. But that is up to you. Let us know how it shoots. Spiris

Here's a list of dimensional action threads from Cast Boolits site. I cannot guarantee just how accurate it is. I do know that Remington's 1.060 is correct and have used them to rebarrel Turk Mausers. Action threads length Receiver OD? other Mauser lrg. Ring 1.1x12 1.41” Mauser sm. Ring .98x12 CZ 550 1.1x12.7 BBK-02 1.1x12 Rem 700 1 1/16”x16 .885 1.0625x16 Win 70 1x16 Ruger 77 1x16 1.41” Sako Weatherby mk V 1.06x16 .7 1 1/16x16 Browning A-bolt Ruger no. 1 1x16” Rem Rolling block No. 1 smokeless 1.055x12 square 1.43” Win 1885 High wall Sharps 1874 Savage 110 < 2001 1.05x20 Short magnum>2001 1.125x20 G series, noticeable step after threads CRF 1 1/16x20 1.0625x20 Bolt Shotgun 1.1x20? MRC 1999 1x16 UNF 2B .75 Enfield M-17 x10 square Enfield SMLE Mosin Nagant .97”x16 or 1x16” Steyr M-95 1.020x14 tpi V .693” shank Win 94 .809x20 Win 94 BB .875x28? Rossi 92 Marlin 336 .775x12 square .85” Marlin 1895 45-70 same as 336, 450 may have been changed to a v thread. Spiris

I have not used Minwax Tung oil, but have used Homer Formby Tung with good results. Are you drying the stock in a cool or cold area? Some finishes will glaze in cold weather and give you the milky look that you mentioned. I use 3 coats of tung usually, depending on the wood, and finish the stock with up to 10 coats of satin polyurethane spray cans in very light coats. I allow plenty of time(days sometime) between coats. Spiris

If you're not into reloading, then you should consider a standard 8mm (re)chambering. That said, there is loaded ammo in 8mm-06 available at the link that I have posted below. The problem with that is, at around $2 a shot, it will hit your wallet every time you pull the trigger. http://www.buckammo.com/results.php?cartridge=8mm-06&Type=Rifle Spiris

Yes, I've noticed a lull in the importation of mainly M44s. 91/30's seem to be available, and Century is showing that "coming soon" in their ads for the M44. Spiris

cajunman2205, If you have a standard M48 bolt, the barrel will need extra cuts in it for the H ring and the extractor. It has what is called a safety breach and does require a bit more machining then regular Mausers. Good luck on the rebarrel. Spiris

I've not seen any reference in this thread addressing the excess headspace and the possibility of lug setback in the action. I have heard of, but not seen lug setback myself in Turk K.Kale actions, but it is a possibility. jeffturk, I'm not posting to rain on your parade, but excess headspace can be a sign of setback and could be hazardous with old brass. Without a field gauge or some measuring tool, you're only guessing on the headspace situation. If you pull the barrel, check the inner bolt lug surfaces in the action for visible lines caused by the bolt lugs creating a tiny step in the action lug area, which can give you excess headspace. This can be from incorrect heat treatment of the action and subsequent soft metal. There are other reasons for excess headspace, such as bolt swaps and just wear and tear over the years. If you do not see any obvious marks, then proceed with your plans to correct the headspace issue with refurbishing the barrel and reaming to spec. Just be careful because that reamer can take a bunch of metal out in a hurry. I have several Turk Mauser conversions myself, and I hope it works out well. Spiris

As expected, the prices for original Swedish Mausers and parts continue to rise as the availability seems to decrease. I ran across this auction for a 29" barrel. I bought one a couple years ago for $52, and sold it a few months later, as my needs changed, for $75. The funny thing is that it may be worth the price that it's getting. They may be some of the best barrels ever put on a military rifle. www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=140923494 Spiris

The threads are metric of course, and the size is 14x1.0mm. The outside is 14mm at 1.0mm thread pitch. It's real close to a sparkplug size, which is 14x1.25mm, but is not a match. Spiris

howdydoit, IMO, you'll be better off picking a 300 Win Mag or 308 Norma Mag to achieve that desired velocity with that weight bullet. You would be lucky to get 2700fps with a 200gr bullet, using a 30-06 at peak pressures. You'll be a lot of money ahead if you leave the Mauser stock and buy a Marlin or Stevens in 300 Win Mag to play with. Spiris

That's a fine looking rifle diggerdanh. It's a clean looking build, and a source of pride, I'm sure. I also started out by acquiring a few K.Kale Turks when they were cheap, and was fortunate to get some fine examples of those actions to work with. I took it a little further than you and bought a mini-lathe and a few Remington take-off barrels and fit those barrels to the actions myself. I did some dealing for Mauser parts back when ebay still allowed it, including the barrels and altered bolts. I too learned a lot about sporterizing at this site. A great bunch of guys here and a wealth of information given freely. Spiris

Obama will probably cancel something like that. He's prepared to spread the love around. Spiris

I have to concur, some of those scout style scope mounts leave a little to be desired. Not all but some. 8uck5nort, if you pull the barrel on the Spanish Mauser, just eyeball the lug seats for any sign of set back while you have it apart. It'll probably be ok, but you never know. Good choice on the 7mm Mauser. Spiris

I don't know why you're having problems with your gauge, but it appears that you have one of the late conversion models that have a large ring barrel and a shortened large ring action. The Turks modified the large ring German actions by cutting a hand guard lip and that shortened the usable threads in the action and the barrel needed to have the threads shortened too. It's possible that the rifle has an issue because of the conversion. The K.Kale models and previous 98 versions had LR action with SR barrel threads. Maybe you already know this, but I thought that I would mention it. Spiris

Sorry to hear of the fires that you're dealing with now. Such a waste of valuble resources. Just think of the number of homes that could be built with the lumber that was destroyed. Spiris

That is a nice handy hunter, lemski4. I especially like the stock. Well done. Spiris

Yeah, WOW, a 150 degree swing. You folks are tough, but the payoff is all around you in the incredible beauty of the land. Spiris