bert01

Im also thinking of building a .450 Marlin on a 24/47

i have one im building a light sporter with on a 24/47, has anyone recontoured one? i want to just not quite sure how to go about it. im thinking it should be easy and im making it harder than it is.

Taylor PDF

its a good .22 the best beater gun i have

i dont know about the gas tubes, but i think the trigger groups were being used in the various sten, suomi, and other tube gun semi builds. may try here sarco

just be careful not to warp the frame here a pic for some inspiration

century arms $54.97

im thinking of getting one for my encore too, and building a bolt gun in one also. on paper and everything ive heard so far its the best thing going...... but theres always the best "new" thing.

century has 32 acp cylinders for about $44 so should i get one with the idea of shooting 32 mag in it? or spend my money on another yugo?

cool been thinking about getting a nagant and a 32 H&R ill just get both in one

just saw this in the IO flyer can you do that?

i was just thiking 400 whele too, or maybe one of the Z-hat hawk calibers

ill be more specific 9.3 or 450 marlin

i got poison ivey that way one time, bad bad bad

i vote for something with a big hole in the end

GORGEOUS!!! where did the wood come from?

the crack is in the stock, really just a large splinter of wood about 2 inches long. should have been more specific i guess. these were not the you fix-em these were the $89 good with cracked stock.

UPS just came by with big box from century:D cant tell much through the cosmo but heres the breakdown; no pitting at all on any guns.all have complete crest. 3 all matching numbers. 1 without matching numbers, bent bolt is only non matching piece. 2 even have front sight hoods. 2 with cracked upper hand guards. 1 with small crack on left side of receiver. 1 with no cracks, and new upper hand guard. 1 of the ones with a cracked upper hand guard looks like the wood is deteriorating or rotting. im very happy. i have 1 or 2 that will make good full military pieces. the others will be SPORTERIZED MUUUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA for $89 i think ill get a couple more

heheheheheheheheee

Ok, so i got my C&R and am sending it everywhere imaginable. century had yugos listed but i was toold they've been out for a month or so. i havent had a chance to call them yet. where are some other good places to get them?

thanks tanglewood still havent gotten my dies but working on it.

hey guys, ordered one of these figured only $40. well it came in today, it is litterally brand new. the add said some pitting from storage on the outside, i see none, looks perfect. i left it at work but ill try and remeber to post some pics tomorrow. 19" 7x57 military stepped for a large ring 98. im thinking of profiling it and putting it on a yugo with a mannlicher stock. sarco part number MSR110

i was thinking that, because i wanted a 45-70, the rim sizes are very close, its already feeding a rimmed cartridge. hoping i could modify the original feeding system or put it in a new stock do away with the mannlicher feeding and use a scratch built blind box mag.

It was in the stock but the action screws werent tight

hey guys, a little background and some questions. i started on my GEW 98 today, doing some practice stuff for shooting up some surplus ammo before i start on the sporter project. scrubbed the bore it looks pretty good. recrowned the barrel on the lathe. removed the military rear site. disasembled the whole thing , scrubbed it out with LPS orange degreaser, hit it lightly with a fine scotch bite pad to briten it up for some cold blue. its a 1917 with so little pitting it would have come out with the scotch brite, all matching numbers no electro pencil. someone had done a hack job on the stock and buggered up both action screws, but i got it for $80. i shot it a couple of times before i started, hit what i was aiming at, functioned well. now for my questions, i hope its an easy answer that i think i already know. when i reassembled it, i put a little outers gun oil on the bolt and raceways, its the only oil i had at that moment. when i tried to work the bolt rapidly it kept wanting to hang if i didnt pull exactly straight back. same thing going forward, i hope i just need to put some better lube on it. it has some play when the bolt is out of battery but i dont think it is any more than the other couple mausers ive handled. the other thing i notice was that now when i take up the the first stage of the trigger the shroud and cocking piece move down with the sear, it may have always done this just never noticed it. dose any of this sound like a real problem? thanks for the help, bert