brian923

i would shoot one first if you can. i had a glock 21 sf in 45 acp. it didnt fit my hand which made accurate shooting very hard. i sold it and bought an eaa witness elite match 45 and absolutly love it! i am able to make regular hits on old empty propane cylinders at 100yards with the witness. i also just picked up a rock island armory 9mm 1911 that i am currently doing modifications to. its a nice little pistol in its own right. as to the 1911 line, you dont have to spend the money for a kimber to get a nice 1911. dont get me wrong, kimbers are great pistols, but the taurus 1911 are getting high praise as are the new remington 1911. i do think that rock river just came out with a polymer 1911... might just have to give that one a look'sy...

can i ask where you got that maple stock? do you still have it? would you be willing to sell it? i really lke the idea of the scout scope mount. i may have to start another build to do this with...

good to hear. the project is at my fathers house right now, so ill have to bring it back home to do my bolt lug and bolt face work with the valve grinding. id like to make it as accurate as possible, and i think i should be able to make it a sub m.o.a rifle if i do my part... the action i am using is a vz-24 action, (believe it to be from 1937) so it should be good to go. i have a new brux barrel blank in 6.5 that i am going to make into a 6.5x55 swede. it should, in essence, be a good shooting rifle once i get done with it. i have a fajen stock to put it in and id like to bed the action as well, an aftermarket timmney trigger with safety, and it has already been d&t'ed for some leoupold scope bases.

you are right. i think i am getting ahead of myself. i think it would be best to figure out what the dimensions are first and the use that to decide weather i need to fit the barrel to the reciever face, or inner c-ring. thanks guys. ill keep you posted...

hey guys, i finally got a lathe installed in my fathers garage and cant wait to start to relearn how to use it. (took shop in school, get the principles) anyways, my brother in law is an engineer/ machinest, but dosent know much about firearm related machining, or firearms (which i know) so, i was talking to him about starting this mauser project, and he came back at me with a couple questions that i dont know, hence this post... so, 1. is it possible to true the front of the action off the inner c ring in a vertical mill? he explained setting it up in the mill and centering/leveling the c ring, and just taking off the fist couple .001" of an inch just to get the inner c ring and the face parallel. 2nd question is.. kinda long, so here i go.. he says that repeatedly inserting and extracting a reamer into the same hole over and over will make the whole over sized, and wondered why we do this for chambering rifle barrels. i wanted to ask you guys since i did not have the proper knowledge to answer his question. thanks for all the help guys, brian.

the 45 grn varget load looks promising. load that up again and see if it'll post that again. i have had the same frustrating dealing's while loading for my savage in .308. it wouldn't print for crap till i stumbled across a specific bullet. the 168 grn. amax bullet shoots a little tiny bug hole at 100 yards now. i also found a 180 grn interlock load that will shoot the same little bug hole about 1/2" lower. both with varget. point is... it can become overwhelming at some times, but when you find that load... it just make it all worth it in the end. good luck and keep us posted!

whats my mauser worth???? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- im looking to trade or sell my mauser for a 450 bushmaster AR upper build. i am looking to see what its worth so that i dont get hosed, or over charge someone for it. it is a german k98k mauser mod.98. it says dou and 44 on the top of the action. the serial number is 17** and is on the action, bolt, bottom metal, mag bottom and the bolt safty shroud. it has some nazi markings as well as a russian capture "X" marking. i am not 100 percent sure if it is a mitchells or not. the stock has been fixed. the small bridge of wood in the stock between the rear action screw and the trigger hole was split, so i drilled the stock and screwed and apoxied a brass screw and refinished the area. it is the small brass dot next to the bolt handle. i also have a set of lee reloading dies, some nosler ballistic tip bullets and numerous pieces of brass that i will sell with the rifle. im looking to get $450.00. is that unreasonable??? thanks for your help, brian.

Hey guys, thought I'd ask here as well as some other forums. I recently acqired a 284 win chamber reamer to finish my mauser project, but when I got it, it was missing the pilot and the screw for the pilot. Anyone here have one they may want to part with or know where I can get one? Thanks guys, brian.

Hey all, I have a quick question, I am going to be replacing the barrel on my M1 with a danish VAR barrel. I was wondering if there was a way to check the headspacing with my bolt and the new barrel before I swap it. Can this be done or is it only checkable after the barrel is installed in the reciever? Thanks guys, brian.

Hey guys, question for ya. I have a VZ-24 action here that I was gonna turn into a .284 Win, but now have a chance on a 300 Win mag barrel and stripped bolt. My question for you guys is... The barrel and bolt are believed to be Zastava. I want to know if the barrel will fit nicly with the VZ action, If the Zastava magnum bolt will fit into the VZ action, and if the VZ bolt innards will fit into the magnum bolt? Or... Would it be better to have the VZ bolt opened to a magnum face instead of using the Zatava bolt in the action? Thanks for the info and advice. Brian. Also, anyone here willing to do the work if I get the barrel? Ill need the action squared, barrel installed and headspaced. I'd like to do it myself, but my fathers machine shop is booked solid. Good for him, not so much for me.

Okay guys, here's another question. A new douglas barrels gonna run about 300 with tax. I found a smith to install it for 150. So, about 450$ for a new barrel. My rifle is not a matching numbers rifle, as if it were, I wouldn't be touching it! But, all the drawing numbers are all springfield numbers. Imn just wondering if the guns worth it, or should I part with it and get a different one, with a new barrel? I got 750$ total in it as of now. Thanks guys, brian.

Hi all. I am a proud owner of a springfield garand. I have been wanting to replace the barrel on it scince its pitted and smokey. I was looking through the midwayusa book and saw that there are two major brands offered through them. One is criterion, or krieger generic, and douglas. Fisrt off, I am able to achieve 4-5" groups at 80-100 yards. Will replacing the barel significantly increase my accuracy? And if so, which barrel would be better to go with. The criterion is 220 and the the douglas is !out 350 if I remember right. I have heard of peoe complain that new criterion barrels have measured .5 to 1.25 on wear gauges and they were brand new!! I don't know if this is the norm, or if it was a freak lot of barrels. Thanks for the advice guys, brian.

keep us inforemed. i havent been able to do this ywt, but would like to do it to my mauser action that i am working on right now. its a vz-24 action, and it looks really nice. what areas should be kept free of the plating? from what i remmember reading, a long time ago, was that it was a super thin plating. would this really mess anything up if you just plated the entire action? maybe not the threads, but i could see a benifit in plating the bolt and the bolt reaceways. i would think that this would help make for a nice bolt through, or do you think thats the plating would start to chip, or wear??? thanks, brian.

few!!! i thiught that thre was something else wrong with my computer. i am having troulbe at a couple other gun forums. i wa going to be really pissed if this one started acting up too! looks cool though!

okay. thats what i am going to try. while ill be removing material from the sholder, the lip will be getting longer, (the piece that goes into the reciever) is this okay, or shod i be shortening that too???

i do have accsess to a mill. i would rather make this one fit since i already have it, and am on a very tight budget! according to the pic, the upper right top of the shroud is contacting the reciver when the bolt hits about 50 percent of its lowering travel. the only things i can see to do is... file or mill the sholder off the top of the shroud, or remove material from the reciver until it will close. is this right?? i would rather remove material from the shroud. which is the right thing to do... if either of these is the right thing??? thanks for the help, brian.

yes. as you lower the bolt the shroud sholder is pulled up into the back of the reciver. you can see the little gap that is at the front of the shroud and where it hits the action.

hey guys, heres the prob. i got this fn style bolt shroud a whiloe ago to build on my turk. but.... i just got a vz24 action, and figured that i would like to have it on that action instead because the turk is not all together anymore. (next project) i will be installing this with a bold trigger with safty. heres a pic of whats happening. this is as far as the bolt will close. the shroud is screwed all the way on in its farthest forward position. it seem to look identical to the origonal shroud. i dont know whats wrong. anyone know what i can do? im guessing that it may need some fitting, i just dont know where to start. thanks guys, brian.

hey guys, heres my question/situation.. i bought a fajen varmite/target style stock a couple years ago, and have had it sitting around for a while now. i recently obtained a vz24 mauser action and am building a 284 winchester. i placed the action in the stock today, and found that around the bottom metal, and around the tang part of the action, there are a lot of gaps left by the inletting that came on the stock. i want to know whats the best way to fill these gaps? i will be slimming the stock down quite a bit to take some weight off of it, and make it a littel better suited for a carry rifle. i dont think that i will be staining the stock a specific color, i was actually thinking aboout just getting a really nice snd job, and just oiling it with a couple coats of linseed oil, just to bring out the nice wood grain on the stock. i will also be glass bedding the reciever. the only thing i can think of is using some of the glass bedding material to fill these gaps, and then re-inletting it to the recievr. the glas kit is brownells acraglass, their brown color. will this leave it looking wierd after the stock is oiled? is ther abetter way to fill these spots? ill try to get some picks, but all the spots i see now are around the bottom metal, and the tang. thanks guys, brian.

can the electroless nickle plating kits be used to plate a mauser reciever?? or is this a bad idea? brian.

hey guys, its me again. heres whats been going on. i found a rifle barrel and an action. the barrel is a McGowen .284 win barrel. since it happened to threaded for a large ring mauser, i found one of those too!! its a vz24 action. i kinda cheated a little. i wanted to do most of the work myself, but ended up getting an action that was already D&T'ed for a scope and the handle already bent for a scope. ill just have to use this as templte for my next build i dont have the barrel or the action yet, but i am so excited to get it. the pair will be laid to rest in a fajen target stock that will get a lot of weight shaved off of it. my question is this. do you guys think that i ill have to opwn up the feed lips to get the big .284 case to feed? if so, can this be done with a file, or is it best left to a lathe? thanks guys, brian m.

i have a barrel on the way and a reciver on the way. i will be needing a reamer and a set of gauges for a .284 winchester if anyone has any. thank guys, brian. also, if anyone knows where a good place to rent them from. thanks guys, brian.

heres my question. if you take material off the lug surface of the reciever, and set it back, wont the bolt be to long? as you havent shortened the bolt? woundnt this create a gap between the rear of the lugs on the bolt and the front of the lug surface on the reciever? thanks, brian

that really sucks. if it is a real nice shooter you are looking for, i would get my money back and do some buisness with someone on this sight. you might end up paying a little more, but i am sure youll get a much better product. but thats just my opinoin. keep us updated on your turk/whelen build. brian

okay. so, i was testing out some handloads and came across a good one. consist of h4895, and a 180 nosler BT. shot a 1" group at around 75 yards, with the ol' iron sights. i was wanting to kinda keep this rifle as stock (for now) and use it for hunting. maybe upgrade the trigger, and give her a good bed job, but stock looking on the outside. i would like to maybe use it for hunting later on in life, and figuring that she was a mitchells mauser, was thinking of scopeing her, to see if i could squezze all the performance out of her. heres my question as to scopeing. i am stuck between conventional 1 piece scope mount, or a replica side mount. money cost steer towards the conventional method as replica side mounts run at least $200.00, and that dosent even include the scope itself! as for a 1 piece mount, and am leaning toward a leupold 1 piece( because it availible at the nearest cabelas) and a nikon prostaff scope. (about the same price as just the side mount itself) i gues that i am wanting to keep the look close to the origonal, and not make it look like a nice rifle with a funny, huge scope just plastered to the top of it. does this make sence? what would you guys do? is the nikon prostaff a good scope? i know its on the cheaper side of the scopes they offer, but thats what i can afford. i guess im just lookin for some opinions. thanks guys, brian.