brian923

the case jams as the bolt rides over it. the bullet of the cartridge is starting to go into the chamber area. i am going to see if i can locate some new mags (al the ones i have found so far look worse than the ones i have) and see if this is the issue. i am starting to think that its a mag issue. i have also read that the 4 stamped places on the mag well, that hold the mag in the upmost postion, may get penned, or damaged, and allow the loaded mag to wobble in the mag well. hen i get the new mags, i was going to try to fix these 4 points to hold the mag nice and tight. i will try to get picsup of the gun, when jammed. thank for everything, brian.

can the 7x57 be loaded to better ballistics (like its big brother, the 8x57) than whats in the reloading manuels? the only reason i choose the 7mm-08 was because it showsthe 7mm-08 with better performance in reloading manuels. its also more availible in stores out this way. but, i will probably be reloading, so i think, in the end, it will come down to one or the other. well just have to wait and see.

ive been thinking and thinking hard. i am going to try to leave the 7 rem mag suff on th shelf for right now and build maybe a 7mm-08. i already have a 308, but thus mayt be an interesting little project. pluse, it will give me a lot of experiance. i was thinking of also putting my 7rem mag reamer on the co-op. so, well see what is to come. my turk has a new fajun stock, timmny trigger with safey, and an fn rear bolt sheild. i plan on a lot of stock work to lighten it up a bit, some bolt work to sweep the bolt, and some bead blasting to make the reciever a little more pleasing to the eyes, and drill and tap for a scope mount. we shall see how it all turns out. thanks guys, brian.

thats what i was kinda thinking, but i just wanted to see if this was a good way or not. i guess ill keep learning, and maybe one day, ill be able to go this route. these actions look like they could make some really nice rifles. thanks for the info, brian.

sorry bout all the questions, but this what i do. always asking to learn more. thanks for putting up with me. in a mag i was reading, a gunshop has a couple fn mauser actions for sale that are 98%finished. it says they need the bolt stop hole drilled and extracter cut, well, cut. and then needeing to be heat treated. as most you know, im thinking of using this action (if any good) to build my 7 rem mag on instead of my k. kale. (at least this is what i am thinking about right now. itll probably go back and forth!) heres my questions: 1. im guessing that drilling the bolt stop hole is pretty straight forward, but is the extrator slot hard? 2. it looks as if these may not come with any bolts... where can i get a bolt to fit? 3. can i properly harden the action, or have my father in laws (the machinist) guys how do his heat treating do it, or is it a special type of heat treat. 4. is this a good way to go, or just stick with getting a complete rifle and starting form there. basically uing th turk k. kale instead. (whuich brings me back to square one! ohh, the things my wife puts up with!!! thanks guys, brian

i have heard of re-threading a remington take off barrel for a turk, (small ring) but can thy be threaded to large ring also, or is there not enough material? thanks guys, brian

i got some forms about a year ago, filled them out, but never sent them. i guiess i placed them aside, and got buy. (son born in august.) anyways, thre dated for about a year ago. would it be okay to send them, or should i apply for more forms?

just a thought, but if you could see the throat, and see how much erosion there is. if its not to much, maybe just enought to clean up the throat area. my guess would be maybe 1/8" or so? but i am not a machinist, nor have i done a mauser barrel yet. soon, but not yet. edit: well, i guess clemson was typing as i was typing. i would listen to him before me. remmember, post pics!!!

hey guys, i have a small, well, big problem with feeding issues with my cetme. long story short... i got a cetme sporter .308 from a local gunfair a couple years ago. while i was shooting it, i put a box of .308 win through it, (i read later this was a bad idea.) the case seperated. not having the appopriot tools to clear the seperated case, i took it to a local gunsmith. he removed the seperated case, and said he "polished the chamber for me" being an ignorant kid, i didnt take the rifle right out to shoot it. i waited a while. the rifle will shoot twice, and jam on the case of the third cartridge. like its riding on top of the case, which scores it real deep. (about mid case to the sholder of the neck. (ill try to find a pic of the case.) if i clear the third round, that was jammed, and let go the charging handle to load another round, it will do so. it will shoot that round and the next, but never the third. does this make any sense to anyone? i have since talked to the gunsmith, and he says he "must have lost the rifle info, he had never worked on my gun" smooth hah.... so basicaly im SOL. this makes me so mad! anyways, i have no clue what to try to see if i can fix it myself, before paying someone else. i have some knowledge (now) about firearms, but its all bolt guns, but i can measure and do some work myself. i will not hesitate to have some help as i am not to familiar with the cetme/G3 rifle. any help is really appreciated. thak guys, brian.

wow, thats a nice looking rifle. i think that this is the way i am going to go. now, i just have to save my pennys, and start turning that barrel i got. thanks guys, brian.

well, i just dont know if i am ready to tear into that rifle. i have worked up a load that will put 3 180 Gr. Nosler BT's into 1" at 75 yards. that means that the ruifle could probably do alot better with a better shooter. i do have a turk mauser that i had givin to my brother, but he dosnt really even want it. would this action work? i cant seem to come up with anything that states what the working pressures are for the turk mauser action. mine is chambered for the 8x57, so i know it has to be a little higher than 57, 000 psi. just for safty sakes. i know that the 280 Ai has a max pressure of 62,200, if you really pack it to the gills, but i dont think i will. but, i still want to keep it safe, incase i get rid of the rifle, and justr for my own sake. thanks guys, brian.

hey guys, i was just wondering if theres an action out there thats better to build on than the other. i have come accross so much that i dont really know anymore. as it states in the topic, i am looking to build a 280 AI. do i NEED a large ring mauser action, or can this cartridge be built on a small ring action? thanks guys, brian. also, wheres a good place to find them? dont have any gun shows, that i know of, around here any time soon.

how can i tell if the numbers on the rifle have been piened, and remakred? is there any way? i took it out today, and shot a 1" group at 75 yards with it. i dont thinki can alter it. i guess ill have to go and buy another rifle. darn

i was thinking of going this way. i am looking to start buying up some components to build a custom mauser in 7m rem mag, but then, with a little investigation, i see that the .280 AI will keep within 100-150 fps with similar bullet weights, and bun a lot less powder. this would also allow the pressures to stay at a sane level, and burn a lot less powder at the same time. pluse, i won thave to mess to much with bolt face opening, and feed rail work, after all, it will be my first, so i think the simpler the better. for now...

okay guys, who of you have a 458 win mag on a mauser action. i was thinking about building one of these as i have yet to have a big bore rifle. dont know what i would use it for, but figured it would be cool. besides, why not?!?! so, how does the 458 win measure up in the mauser action? what types of velocities are obtainable? also, would it be good to use an ADAMS and BENNET .458 win mag barrel, or is it better to splurge and get the shilin barrel instead. the reason i ask is that the A&B barrel will save about 100.00$. what are your guys experiances with Adam and bennet barrels? are they good??? thanks alot guys, brian.

WOW. thats beautiful. i just hope that i can get that good. nice rifle. brian.

so it is a KAR 98 k then. cool. thanks guys, that makes me feel a little better. a russian capture is still a historical rifle. to me at least. they didnt butcher this one at all. the bore on this rifle is emaculate. bright an shinny. i am curently working on some handloads, and let me tell ya, there looking pretty good, about 1 minute with a flier. i can never get away without the flier when i get some good loads going, ill post some more pics and info. thanks again guys, for everything. brian

well, i think i know now, tell me if im wrong, (please!!!) but i found a thread in a long time cloesed forum that states that re-arsenaled, or russian captured rifle have an x stamped on them. clearly seen in pic #1, and the rifle stock is stamped, i here that germans didnt do this. is this correct? how much would you guys think that this rifle might be worth? learning now that it may be a mithcells, probably wouldnt hurt to drill and tap for a scope huh?!?! kinda bummed, as i didnt know this before. oh well, i uess you live and learn right. bri

i dont know if its a k98k or not. thats just what i am assuming because of pics on th internet. (i know that the internet can kinda be misleading sometimes..... who new? ) i am curious to see if it is a mitchells or not. i dont ereally care because i bought the rifle to shoot it. buit it would be nice to see if it just might be a real mauser, and not a mithcells..heres some more pics. hope it helps, and thanks for the help. thanks for all you help again, if there is any other pics i can provide, let me know. thanks again for the help, brian.

hey guys, i have posted a couple topics on drilling and tapping my mauser for a scope, and a lot of you have asked if it were a micthells or not. i have no clue on how to tell. i was wondering if any of you ight be able to tell me why a mithcells is not a good rifle to have and how to tell if this one is or not. thanks guys, brian. numbers i have found on the rifle: import mark, (left side of barrel, above bayonet lug) .........Ger 8mm MMC H.B CA 47741 reciever........................................................................ Mod. 98 x, e, 172* eagle holding swastika (twice) and in big letters, dou barrel.......................................................................... ...D, F, dou eagle and swastika with a 480 under it bolt- top of handle, on the bend, .......................................172* bolt shroud........................................................................17 2* 2* trigger......................................................................... ......17 mag fallower.....................................................................17 bottom metal, and magazine cover......................................172* stock, behind rear fireing pin take down hole.........................172* stock, inside barrel channel.................................................172* 1 3 8 252 21 Na 6 7 43 upper stock piece.................................................................6 2 1 9 ac all numbers with the * have the same last number

not sure if it a mitchell or not. the numbers on it are "17XX" its a really nice looking rifle. the only part that dosent match is the rear site. other than that, the stock, bolt, barrel, safty lever, and rear bolt shroud are all marked the same. even the bottom plate. i had to put a brass pin through the stock, right under the bolt handle. (in the closed position) it was craking. but this has seemed to stop the crack. you can kinda see it right in front of the bolt knob in the picture.

hey guys, i picked up an all numbers macthing k98 mauser. was wanting to know if i drilled and tapped the reciever for a scope, and did a little stock work , or replaced the stock and kept the origonal well, origonal, if it would dramatically reduce the value of the rifle? (specifically the reciver) the rifle is in good condition, but i would like to add a scope for hunting puroses. i would like to get one of those side mount scope that dont require the alteration of the reciver, but they are really pricey. chepest i can find is around 200 bucks, and that need s a 27mm scope? and the zf scopes and mounts are like 500.00$!! that would be awsome, but i just cant swing that. if you guys might now where to get a side mount for cheaper, or have on youd like to get ride of, please let me know, as well as to what you think about the origonal question. thanks guys, brian.

since i have you guys reading.... i was thinking of maybe adding a scope mount to the rifle. i would like to find an origonal, or remake of the side mounting system that was used back in the war time era. it seems though, that they need to be drilled into the reciever. now, if i were to do this, would it devalue the rifle? i mean, i know drilling it would devalue it, but is it really worth anything? like in the thouands that i shouldnt touch it??? will using an origanal scope mount not devalue since its from the time period, or are there manufacturing marks that show a "sniper made"rifle from an infantry rifle?? like these......... http://home.comcast.net/~yzhu/accumount/cl...rman/German.htm to make it look like this.. where would the best place be to find a setup with the mount and the scope? thanks guys, brian

thanks guys. i have found out through some website searching, is that i have a german kar 98k. (or so i think) heres some pics of the rifle and the pin fix i did. does it look okay? ill probably shoot it first and then decied if i want to bed it, so to see if it makes a differeance or not. thanks again, brian.

pics added!!!hey guys, just the i noticed a crack forming in my mauser. its cracked inside the action cut out and is starting to crack down the grip area of the stock. i would like to pin the stock and keep it because i believe the rifle to be a micthell mauser and all the part numbers match. even the upper handgaurd piece. my thougts were to bed the action since i was going to use the glass bedding material to pin the stock. i was just wondering what the best way to bed the origonal stock was? i can find a lot of info on bedding it into a new sporterized stock, but nothing about using the origonal military stock. thanks for the help guys, brian