bobmoffett

All I am interested in is are some good quality non-pitted actions. Sounds as if I should pay the extra $10 for hand pick and take my chances. Thanks for the feedback.

High humidity is often a source of cloudiness in wood finishes.

$160 says they are in good condition.

The catalog shows the walking lion crest and says they were made for the Czech army prior WWII

Anyone had a look at the VZ-24s that SOG is offering with the crests intact? Wondering how good or poor the quality is, especially any pitting. Thanks Woodchuck

Thanks to both replys. I was thinking about naval jelly also. Its been a long time since I used any but as I remember it creates a pretty dull surface finish. Good advice about the steel wool rusting. I doubt if the brass brush is going to do any more than the steel wool did. I suspect I will have to remove the top surface of the stainless to get back to a bright/matte finish. Bead blasting might be the final solution, but I am hesitant to go that way if there is another possible solution.

My cousin pulled out his stainless steel Browning A-bolt for this year's deer season, only to find it had surface corrosion on the action and barrel as well as the blued steel scope rings and mounts. The stainless steel trigger guard and magazine however showed no signs of any corrosion. Not sure why the gun corroded as he claims he cleaned and put it away after last year's hunt. He cleaned off the worst of the corrosion on the stainless with steel wool, but the stainless steel now has an almost tan color where the corrosion was. The stainless had a matte or bead blasted appearance before the corrosion took hold. What is the best way to return the stainless to its original matte silver color? Looking for any and all suggestions. Thanks

You can try Hearne Hardwoods. I deal with them often because they are close to where I live. I believe they will ship. Nice folks to deal with. http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/

You might check Great American Gunstocks. I built a .45-70 a few years back on a Siamese. Seems to me that I got the stock from Great American.

Nice job Don. Who's straddle floorplate did you use or did you make that yourself? I presume you are going to thin the guard like you have shown in past posts. If so, how about providing some dimensions particularly concerning how much taper to put from front to rear. Thanks

Zr I got a Mauser bolt in need of a new handle. Can you PM me a quote. I prefer the old Willams shape that followed the lines of the Win M70 if that is possible. Thanks

I would like some opinions on repairing a couple of medium pits beneath the wood line on the reciever ring of a 1908 Brazilian Mauser. Since I intend to have the receiver heat treated, is it ok to TIG the pits full and dress them down? The action is certainly safe and functional as-is. I would however like to eliminate the pits, but they are too deep to simply grind out. Thanks for everyone's advice.

So how tight is tight enough when installing a new barrel?

Yes, I believe that is another term for it. I am not talking about soft solder that can be applied with a propane torch. Silver solder/braze normally requires OA.

I have a question for the forum bolt welding experts. Can a replacement bolt handle be silver soldered onto a mauser bolt rather than welding and still produce a quality job? Although I have OA welded a few handles in the past, I have never been totally thrilled with my results. I do not have a TIG welder and likely do not have the ability to use one anyway. My father asked why not silver solder a handle. Although the machining to get the proper angle and perfect mating surface fit might be difficult, it seems like it should be possible. I believe Remington 700 handles are siliver soldered, so I can't imagine the joint strength would be inadequate. After further reflection on the subject the only reason I could see would be the handle would show the silver joint if it was blued. I am looking for more input on the subject. Thanks

They are in SOG catalog #212. It came about 2 weeks ago. Price is $139.95. Condition is listed as good. The price is probably better than I have seen on the auction lists. I have no idea where to pick up VZ-24 actions any longer.

Thanks Don. The last scrubbed VZ 24 I bought sight-unseen, looked like someone had taken a 4" hand grinder to it. I may have a small ring before I can can eliminate the grinding marks! Other scrubbed receivers I have seen were easily resurfaced. I figured for the price SOG is asking they would not be prestine, but hopefully not pitted or otherwise extremely rough.

Has anyone purchased one of the VZ-24's that SOG is now advertising? I was wondering what the quality was like.

According to what I can see on the Marstar Canada website, this rifle is a 1924 not a M24. It says these rifles were built by FN for Yugoslavia (now Serbia!). Are these still intermediate length like other Yugos? Any more value to a 1924 compared to M24's?

Well it looks like the rifle is a Serbian 1924. Ok fella's what's this thing worth? The best I remember it was in good shape in full battle dress. Not sure if the serial numbers matched or not. He was asking $200 for it.

I will see if he can take some pics. Did not consider the possibility of it being a Yugo. Do the Yugo's use the same alphabet as we do, or do the have characters like the Russian alphabet?

A friend of mine has for sale what he has been told is a Bulgarian Mauser. I've have never before heard of such a Mauser. It appears to be a standard M98, with a crest, somewhat similar to a 1909 on the receiver ring. The writting on the left side of the action would appear to be the same or similar to the Russian alphabet. Overall, the rifle appears to be in excellent shape. Anyone have any ideas about this rifle?

Hey Guys I am new to this website and have been admiring the hinged floorplates. I've got a couple of '98s I'm working on and would like to install some hinged floorplates. I prefer the release inside of the bow, not the current Zastava side button style. I am looking for suggestions on the various options. The options I can come up with are: 1) Buy a used Mark X trigger guard and plate (seems a bit pricey). 2) Buy a cast guard and plate from Numrich (I understand these are not the best, but are they ok with some work?). 3) Buy a military guard and modify. I have a good machine shop and I'm a pretty decent machinist, but not a great welder. I'm thinking that I might be able to start with a Turk guard and install one of the straddle floorplates, but I'm not sure how to modify the bow to to match the 1909 profile. Should I start with another guard beside the Turk? It looks like some of the guards in other posts already have the bow profile of the 1909 Argies. Looking for any and all suggestions. Thanks