Uncle Grinch

Not trying to be anal, but I think you mean socket head cap screws instead of hex head, which is a common bolt has. Just want to clear up any misunderstanding.

Back some time ago, it was fairly common to see 7.7 Arisaka rifles rechambered to 30-06. My neighbor had one and so did a hunting buddy. Neither were gun nuts or reloaders, just deer hunters and they were accurate enough to hunt with (at least here in the Georgia woods). I can only imagine the brass was beyond reloadable. Their rifles were nice enough sporters (in the California Weatherby fashion), but the safety was a pain in the ass to use! (please excuse my language)

If the barrel is not going to be reused, try using a large pipe wrench and a cheater bar. I also cut some relief cuts into the barrel shoulder near the receiver and applied Kroil. It finally broke free with quite a bit of effort.

I have always inletted the trigger guard first on Mausers. At least that's the way I was taught years ago. Get it down to where you want it making sure it seats flat so it doesn't rock. Then start on tha action, working slowly, keeping an eye on everything, ie... tang, magazine rails, recoil lug and barrel channel. Work the action down until the rails are very close and have your rear guard ferrule in place so you can check the fit there. Use some inletting screws, if you have them and inletting black or carbon paper. I use a rubber mallet. to tap the action to emboss the carbon paper. Secret is go slow... take wood off in small increments and continually test fit.

Does anyone know the thread pitch of the front sight screw, the one under the sight blade, of a K98 Mauser? I sweated a new front sight barrel band/base on and need to chase the threads with a bottom tap. The screw goes in almost all the way, but there must be some solder in the bottom.

E.R. Shaw has them. Try... http://www.ershawbarrels.com

Another less common, but possibly older version of this great cartridge is the 7.65 Belgian. It was introduced in 1889 prior to the 1891 Argentine rifle. I have a set of Herters dies marked 7.65 Belgian that I use for my 1909 Arg Calvary Carbine.

Ken... Yes... it's pitted. My bad send it back and I'll refund your money plus shipping. Sorry....

AzRedneck... I too had been shooting quite a bit of surplus ammo, Korean, Turk, Yugo, and the best I've found, Greek HXP. On the Korean, I found it is mildly corrosive, and also there was another headstamp other than KA that was very dependable, I think it was PS. When I broke the KA71 down I found both ball and stick (extruded) powder. Some of which was gummed up with green oily corrosion. All that looked good has been reloaded in my HXP brass, using the same powder and bullets, with excellent results.

I wanted to test uploading images from photobucket and needed a photo to test with so I decided on an example of some Korean 30-06 (KA71) that split during a milsurp match with my 03A3. No damage done other than a little blow back to my forehead and eyebrow. I ended up pulling the bulletes and powder and trashing the brass. No problems since. IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f106/blslryr/IMG_6151.jpg[/img] http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f106/bls...ic=IMG_6151.jpg <a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f106/blslryr/?action=view¤t=IMG_6151.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f106/blslryr/IMG_6151.jpg" border="0" alt="Korean Surplus 30-06"></a> Hummm... I must be doing something wrong. Here it is from my PC...

Thank you gentlemen, I'll be on the look out for a barrel on the various auction sites. In the mean time, is there any way, other than the avatar, to see who is close to me? I'm outside of Macon, GA. Mike

I often see various commercial rifle barrels that have been removed and rethreaded for Mausers and since I am looking at my options on making a .308 plinker for my K. Kale action, I wonder about the cost factor of picking up a $30-$50 Remington .30 caliber barrel and having it rethreaded to fit my small ring Turk. ( I started another thread about swapping my 1916 Spanish 308 barrel to my Turk, but am now considering selling it and putting the $$ towards the Turk) First... Is it practical, cost wise, assuming I have to pay someone to do this? Second... What barrels would work best, ie... Remington, Winchester, Ruger, Savage, etc...? Thanks.... Mike

Tinker, Thanks for the comments. I didn't mean to misrepresent myself. I personally will not be doing the machine work as I don't have these skills. I feel like I know what I need, but am alway receptive to ideas from others, especially those who have "been there before". I might be better off buying another barrel and selling the 1916 Mauser. Small shank .308's are hard to find though, unless you spend more dollars. I'm trying to keep the cost low. I'm looking for an inexpensive "truck gun" that uses .308 Win and looks military, that's why I plan on re-using the K. Kale stock and hardware (love those ole milsurps!). I'm open to working a deal with someone on this forum, such as trading the '93 action and stock for the labor to install the barrel on my K. Kale.

I'm thinking about pulling the barrel off my 1916 Spanish mauser in .308 and have it put on my K. Kale Turk. This would give me a 98 action .308 that would be fun to shoot and it would be much safer than the Spanish 93 action. I'll have to modify the Turk stock length to make it fit, other than that, does anyone see any problems with my idea? I plan on keeping it military looking.

I picked up a 6.5x55 Swede on a 98 action. It's a Husky with an interesting rear peep sight. The bore is worn, but very shootable. Has anyone seen this type peep before?

Some of my early Mausers (93 Spanish & 95 Chilean) were done this way by a local gunsmith in Macon, GA, back in the late 60's. I no longer have the rifles, but they served me well and thinking back, I had no issues with their looks.

I have always understood a forged bolt (on a military action) is one that has been heated, cut, bent and rewelded. They all end up fairly short and stubby. Some of the photos I am seeing here don't look like forged bolts to me, but look more like welded on bolts. Maybe it's a matter of symantics, ie... forged vs. cast handles that are weled on or military bolts that have been forged into a new shape. Are we all talking the same? Keep me straight please.

Does anyone know the quality of Wilson barrels? I've read they are somewhat better than A&B, but lower in quality than the opther major player, ie... Shilen, Hart, etc... . How about the AA user Huntgrouse? Any info on him or his work?

Good info Bill. Thanks... I have an '09 Argie Carbine that I replaced the barrel on and shooting Lyman's 31499 sized to .313 it groups better than I can hold it. Great little rifle.

Good info Bill. Thanks... I have an '09 Argie Carbine that I replaced the barrel on and shooting Lyman's 31499 sized to .313 it groups better than I can hold it. Great little rifle.

I slugged the barrel this evening and came up with.... Bore... .326 Land... .313 Did it again and got... Bore... .325 Land... .313 This was all taken from muzzle to six inches into bore.

I have a K. Kale 98 Mauser that my buddy and I pulled the barrel off as it was a real sewer pipe. The action is in pretty good shape so I picked up an 8mm Turk Mauser barrel (small ring) with a good bore for only $12.00 off the internet hoping to put it back in shooting condition. When I cleaned it up, I was really pleased with it's condition. However I found a 7.89 stamp on the chamber area of the barrel. An 8mm (.323) bullet will not fit in the muzzle. I have not slugged it yet but plan to. I believe I might have a J-bore (.318) barrel as opposed to the more common S-bore (.323). I considered reloading for it using the expander off my 7.65 Arg and shoot cast bullets, but really want to make a 308 cast bullet gun with peep sights. Anyone familiar with this 7.89 stamping?