8uck5nort

It was converted to 7.62 Nato and had a hinged trigger guard so that made my mind up to do a classic deer cartridge. The rifle was in pretty rough shape when I bought it at the gun show. The saftey still does not move from the fire position. Got it cheap tho. I have removed the old barrel, and removed the charging hump. I got the barrel from Rhineland Arms and has the Savage style lock collar so we will see what I can do with that. I am probably going to add open sights as well as scope. I am also going to do a wisner style swing saftey and convert to cock on open with a Dayton Traister speed lock kit. I have not decided if I am going to do a custom carved stock yet or buy one form Richards Microfit. Anyway here is some progress pics. Oh and I ma going to make my own Go No-Go guages to seat the barrel. I downloaded the specs from SAAMI site so I should be able to figure it out with some youtube, patience and trig...

Silver soldered the pin in place and cleaned up. Seated and trimmed and grounded pin tip.

Then I performed the operation on my broken firing pin. Worked like a charm.

Fixed! Why did I wait sooo long to get a lathe? OK, so I managed to learn a little machining and was able to fix my broken firing pin. I am also including some progress pics on my project. Here is my proof of concept after learning to select a cutter, and face, and reduce OD, and drill on center...

Well. I am in for the pound of flesh now. I used my 25% Labor Day only coupon at Harbor Freight and bought a 7x10 mini lathe with cutters and a M#2 taper jacobs chuck to do this right. I had a friend go with me who works at Cat who has machine shop lathe experience to help and steer me in the right direction on a basic set up. This pretty much blew my remaining budget for the rest of year, but now I have the means to do a lot more on future projects. Yes it would have been cheaper to buy a 100 dollar replacement bolt and keep going. In fact I could have bought several of them, but I decided to take the long view on this. Now I need to clean up the lathe and start learning on some scrap metal and get the basics down. Wish me luck.

OK. After sleeping on it and doing a lot more digging on machinist and other "gunsmith" forums I think I came up with a repair idea. I think it is worth a try. Since there is no available source of repro or used firing pins then repairing the old one may be essential. This will serve two purposes. One it may flat out resolve my issue with part that is now unserviceable. Two, it may return the part for use as a testing piece keeping my expensive replacement reserved for actual use. It may also serve as a model to send out to a machine shop to create a repro part using modern steels. Either way I really have nothing to loose. OK here is the actual idea. The firing pin body is in excellent shape. The pin broke off right at the point it finishes tapering to the final diameter required to fit through the firing pin hole. So I could file the break lightly or machine (preferably) flat. Find center. Drill a hole and insert an appropriate steel shank that is the same diameter as the old firing pin. Grind and shape to appropriate length and tip shape. Then silver solder pin in place. Now that I look at it replacing the broken firing pin from a point further back on the pin body may be even better and frankly easier since there is more meat to work with. Plus the replacement pin will be easier to machine since it is a basic shape. The concept is kinda like replacing a broken or bent decapping pin in a set of reloading dies except you are using a high strength solder to affix permanently in place. If it should ever break again heat, remove and replace. What do you think? Am I way off on this or onto something? It really seems like my only option. Even with a new repro pin with all the variations you may be required to do minor fitting to get them to work. Necessity is the mother of invention.

Can a swede firing pin be modified to work on a Spanish M93? There is a lot of those available.

Well I am out of ideas short of buying a whole new bolt assembly to get at a replacement firing pin. I am currenlty building out a 35 Remington on a M93 mauser action a 1923 Oviedo. Just got done removing the charging hump and was polishing the bolt shroud. I decide to re-assembling the bolt to marvel at my work and "snap" I busted the firing pin off. It did not take much, but no matter it is still broken. Do you all know of a source for a replacement or even better yet a reproduction new one? I found whole new bolts, but that is going to set me back 3 times what a used or repro firing pin would cost.

Great looking rifle. I have shot a 416 Rigby which packs a punch, so I imagine the 375 Ruger is about the same. Is this your go to grizzly rifle?

I actually called Ed Lapour yesterday. I found his site while digging around trying to find anyone who still currently makes three or two postion safetys for the M96. It was indeed pricey, and if I had the money would do it in a heart beat and not look back. Definitely worth it. Fact would be I would have more in the COO and safety than in the rest of the rifle combined. Wisner used to make a wing 2 stage safety kit # 170k for the M96, but I exhausted all my sources trying to find one. You can still find em for the 98, but not the 96. I guess I wll have to go the boyds/timney w/ safety route, which is not a bad thing, just not what I really wanted. I have also decided to just operate the rifle in it's original COC and just deal with it. I will slick the bolt up and polish rails to make it easier to cycle. Only question remaining now is what to do with the safety. Cut it off and permantley weld in the fire position or just leave it alone? I am beginning to think just leave it alone since this rifle has iron sites. Might have my eyes shined up by a laser and get my 20/20 back on day...

I have a M96 Swede. It has nice thin profile sporter barrel in 8x57js with machined front site,missing the site hood, and barrel swivel stud. I plan on shooting only US commercial or handloaded ammo and most likely will stay with 150 to 170 gr bullets with occasional 200 gr use. I am not looking to hotrod any of the loads. Bolt has been turned down and it has been D/T with scope bases already installed for proper scope mounting. So half the work is already done when I got it. 1. I would like it to cock on open. I am not used to the cock on close. Maybe, I just need to shoot it more and save myself the trouble that makes option 2 and 3 easy. Anyway if I do go this route I plan on using the Dayton Traister (DT) cock on close to cock on open kit. Anyone used this before? Pros, Cons? 2. I will be replacing the trigger. I initially planned on using a Timney or Bold w/ side saftey. a. However, If I convert it to cock on open will the after market Timney or Bold still work? if not I have plan b. b. I have seen the DT coc to coo kits that come with a trigger, but that means getting a low scope saftey which points to #3. 3. Rework the bolt shroud for a cleaner look. a. I really, really, really want a winchester style saftey, but I think that this is still beyond my current tool skill set, so that is why I decided to first try a timney or bold granting it will work with #1. b. If the Timney or Bold does not work with #1 and I have to go with 2.b. and I can't get a pre-bought shroud for a M96 with three postion saftey then I would probably install a buehler 2 postion. c. Now if I can use a timney or bold side safety how to then deal with the bolt shroud? Can you convert a M98 bolt shroud, which I have a spare, for use on a M96? Or just buy a commercial "no saftey" shroud for a M96, if they still make one and I can find it? d. If a M98 bolt shroud can converted they sell pre-assembled three postion M70 style saftey/shrouds can that be modified to work with my M96 or do they make them for a M96 which solves all my issues, well not "all" my issues, well, you get the picture. To all of those who have gone before what say you? 4. Boyds Featherwieght thumbhole stock in nutmeg laminate that will be pillar and action bedded. This should turn out to be a nice light and quick handling hunting rifle for deer sized game.

Well just when I thought I had done pretty good this year with my buck my youngest son and I went out the following saturday and out of the same stand almost in the same spot my son took this real nice bruiser with my custom 357 maximum in a Handi rifle I built a while back. 180 gr Hornady SSP over a dose of H110 sealed this guys fate with a perfect 20 yard heart shot. The 8 pt rack from my buck fit inside this guys span. My wife and I are having a head mount done for his Christmas and B-day this year.10 pointer. 168 lb field dressed at check in. Estimated live weight was about 210 lbs. This is a solid 130 class buck pushing 140. Very nice.

Yes it does.

There it is again!!! I would take that as a sign. Yes, yes I would.

The M95 Steyr was converted to a single shot. It has turned into a sweet handling rifle, and form a blind or stand, absolutely deadly. It extracts and ejects fired cases flawlessly. It is just that a quick follow up shot is it's Achilles Heel if it is indeed really a shortcoming. I have the 445 SM safely loaded up so that it nips on the heels of a 444 marlin and if I get a steady shot on a calm animal in the 200 yard or even at 225 yard with the BDC retical scope I've been able to seal the deal every time. I only ran into issues when my first shot missed on a drive and the deer broke cover and hit the open fields. By the time I got a second cartridge loaded the deer were out of my ethical range. Meanwhile the guys with the pump and semi-auto shotguns were piling up the carcasses. Typically getting 3 or even 4 shots to my one. Not a big deal, but I definitely had the wrong rifle for that application. I understand that prior to getting rid of the bottom metal the clip fed system would feed 410 shotgun shells pretty reliably. A 445 SM with 265 grain point FTX bullets loaded is very cloase to a 410 shell in dimensionand should in theory feed from the clip.

I am contemplating my next hunting rifle. My M95 in 445 SM is awsome, but I want something with a quicker follow up shot and a little more PBZ range. I was running into trouble when we were doing pushes on deer and trying to get a quick second shot off especially after the deer hit the open fields and put some distance on. If I got the drop on em it was entirely different story. the 445 will be my chosen stand hunting rifle bar none. I have to stay in our states 1.8 case length and 358 caliber to stay deer legal. A case trimmer is all I need to get legal for the 2014 deer season with the 35 Remington and if I go out of state to hunt with this rifle I can use factory ammo as well. I am considering the two platforms for my next project the M95 Steyr or a Mauser action of some flavor. The M95 steyr will be more challenging, but in theory if I can solve the feed issue a faster cycling rifle. Doubtful I can get there easily. The Mauser in my mind should be easier and offers more third party options granting the 35 remington cartridge will feed and extract/eject ok.I know the bolt travel in an intermediate action is shorter, but not sure if that will make a diffterence. Has anyone tried to do a 35 remington project? can someone tell me if the 35 will load and feed? The project will happen if that is the case and will be pretty straight forward if I can get that question answered. I also plan on loading up to +P levels. I believe both actions should be strong enough to handle the very max 50,000 cup that loading will produce which should put me on the heels of a 356/358 winchester and even into the mild 35 whelen range. Thank you as always for your answers and guidance. 8uck5nort

November 19th I caught this guy walking along the field edge and shot at 50 yards, 265 gr Hrndy FP over 29.7 gr of H110 obliterated the top half of his heart and he piled up after a 40 yard death sprint. To say I am pleased is an understatement. I can put 3 shots with this load and rifle at 185 yards in a 3 inch circle with boring regularity. I love this rifle.

Mulie? Nice deer.

Been working on this one for a while. About 3 years. I just added a nice leather sling which is not in the pictures. Been doing load development and am fairly pleased so far. Several loads including two commercial rounds have produced 1 inch or slightly smaller groups at the 100 yard mark. Here are the final specs: Adams and Bennet F54 contour barrel in 7x57 Boyds factory second stock. Has some knots on bottom of Buttstock which was no big deal. Trimmed in Gaboon Ebony grip and for end cap. Limbsaver g2f pad. Uncle Mikes swivel and studs. I just need a checkering job done. I have not decided on if it will be a DIY or send out to a qualified checkerer. I am leaning towards getting a dem-bart starter kit in 18 lpi, but don't know if I can wait another 3 years to actually finish it. Winchester style safety. Reforged bolt. Timney trigger. Gibbs 3 round detach magazine. Duracoat in my own proprietary Stainless Steel/Matte Black mixture to cut glare. Forgotten name brand picatinny/weaver scope bridge which I laser leveled and aligned with bore then semi permanently cold welded onto recierver to stiffen and strengthen it. Thus the drop out Gibbs mag. Weaver quad locks for the mild recoil and finally a new Bushnell Banner dusk til dawn scope 4-12x40/AO. Rifle is a little on the heavy side coming in at just under 9 lbs so I may swap the sope around to a lighter one for carrying. She makes a nice bench rifle. I like a little heft when I shoot to cut the recoil down. Might not appreciate that after humping it up and down the mountains chasing elk if I ever get the chance. Who am I kidding I would love that problem. Be a good blind gun for antelope or deer though. 8uck5nort.

It will clean up. You have two choices to get to 7x57 AI on a handi/nef. Rechamber a 7mm-08 barrel or get a 22-250 barrel and send it off for rebore and rechamber. There are a couple of reamer rental sites that can assist you in reamer and guage selection. They will also let you know if it is a DIY hand reaming job or you need to have it machined. Either way it is an investment well beyond what you will have in the original rifle.I have seen charts where the 6.5x55 and 7x57 mauser cartridges are one of the top "gainers" for velocity if you AI them. Grated the increase in velocity is not always an indicator on overall perfomance and accuracy, but it is a gain. I researched at length this very route and went the 22-250 barreled action route and had it rebored and re-chambered in 8x57 mauser by a smith to compliment my sported German BCD 43. They are my travel hog/deer rifles. The mauser for the primary and my HR/NEF as a backup with one ammo in a double case. Of course, there are plenty of chopped up mausers out there in 8x57 and 7x57 just begging to be given a new life and Ackley Improved...

You can go 7x57 A.I. from a 7mm-08.

Ditto to what Dr. Hess said. You might try moving the pci card to a different pci slot if you have on available and try again. Is the video adapter an older pci archetecture? Or is it AGP or one of the newer PCIx flavors? Built in to the motheboard?

I am coming close to completing my mauser rebarreled to 30-06. I need to scope it using the Buehler 1 inch solid rings. This rules out most modern scopes with a bell shaped objective end since they are usually sealed with inert gasses, and breaking that seal to insert the scope into the mount is out of the question. I am thinking of picking up an old weaver scope. This mauser originally had a K7 that was beat to snot when I got it. In fact Mike ended up with it to use the windage and elevation caps. What older scope will work with the solid buehler rings? I found some very nice vintage weaver K6's that might work, but don't know if you can remove the eyepiece without royally screwing up the scope. I just don't know enough about the older sopes to make an intelligent decision. I am also combing GB and fleabay for a set of reasonbly priced split rings. that would get me around the whole "unassemble the scope" thing to mount it. I was also considering a newer weaver V3 1-3x 20mm or Nikon Monarch 1-4x 20mm African with the german reticle, but these are a little too much money for an untested rifle. If it shoots well I may go to one of these scopes in the future. Thank you in advance for your input. Darin

Agreed, I do not hate President Obama. Just like Bush he probably is a likeable guy to do stuff with. Agreed, I am against most if not all of his policies on Health Care, Gun Control, Bailouts, etc... We as a nation do not need anymore socialist programs sucking the economic life out or country. My point is a RINO is still better than a lame duck, dyed in the wool socialist authoring a long list of Executive Orders. JMHO