8uck5nort

Ken98k, You maybe right, hot steamy climates and metal usually don't get along very well especially if your 115 years old. LOL.. Just trying to make some lemonade when I got handed a lemon... Keep in mind the thing was painted black and I'm sure the pitting effect is being exaggerated in the pix because black paint is still in the bottom of the pits It really makes them stand out. The interior is actually clean and no pitting is in the rails, lug raceways or on the threads. The bolt is in very good condition relative to the reciever. I spent a good deal of time Sunday cleaning and sanding with wet/dry paper to get out the majority of the pitting and let it soak in acetone to get out the rest of the black paint. It looks much better, but there is no doubt it has pitting especially under the woodline. Functionally it appears sound. Like I mentioned I am a little concerned about the bolt fit when it locked into firing position, but I don't have enough experience to know if that is ok, bad, but fixable, or "whoa dude thow that one away." When the time comes (read when have spare coinage) I was going to ask for quotes from some of the more knowledgable if I could ship it to them for inspection and then heat treating, granting it passed inspection. Other than this it looks slavageable. I am thinking along these lines: 1. Get what pitting I can out and polish to 220 grit. Time and elbow grease. 2. Send off for bolt seating concern and possible heat treat. Should be minimal fee for the shipping and inspection. Project comes to a scrething halt if a no-go and I sell off the parts and pieces to recover some of my "investment". Otherwise run it through the oven. cha-ching 3. Granting it passes muster, fill deepest pits which are all below the woodline with metal filler then beadblast. Some more DIY and I am assuming a beadblast is not that expensive or specialized. Just don't get the threads and the rails. 4. Gun-Kote a matte or glossy black along with barrel of choice (probably a 6.5 sweede). DIY granting I can get a finishing reamer and some guages. 5. Send out bolt for new handle. Costs not too bad as long as I don't go nuts. 6. Drop in a thumbhole stock and bed. DIY as long as I get a semi inltetted stock. That is the plan anyway. Looking at next year on this one. Maybe...

Nice. looking good. Ok, not sure if I am looking at this correctly, but how about using another clip to act as or manufacturing some type of "bridge" to sit just in from of the cut follower Use the Trigger guard/mag to attach too. This provides a fixed follower plate to move the rounds across and into the chamber??? NOt sure how you would do that or it

Clemson I probably should send it back. Lesson learned. I am sticking to buying whole rifles from reputable places. I got it relatively cheap. The pitting is not on any "working" surface. It was painted black and the pitting looks deeper than it is. I am going to keep it as long running project and reminder to not do that again. Walnut As far as I know you would be correct. No Spanish language Swedes. This is a Brazilian 1804 small ring mauser that I want to barrel in 6.5 swede. I was stating (and proabably not very well) that I want to get a Swede one day and sporterize it, but for now this is what I got. A Brazilian reciever with a future Swede barrel. 724WD The guy stated it had pitting and was "rough" and had been painted black. He also said it was a 1908 Brazilian action. I knew I was not getting a beauty, but thought it was one that was functional. Bolt is in very good shape. Bolt face looks good. Not a great picture but I think you can see it is in good shape... Let me know if my assumption is wrong. In the end I am going to try and further my gunsmithing skills. If I can't build a safe rifle I will put it backup for sale and just list it truthfully or sell of the parts and probably make my money back, or get it close enough that I will only be out 10-15 bucks at worst and chalk it up as a lesson.

Did a quick Google search and I found an uninleted Monte Carlo style boyds stock in their pepper liminate for 50.00 bucks... not bad. they sell em normally for about 70 bucks. That might make a nice sporter stock for this rifle! Get the best of both worlds.

Good question... First gut reaction is to make it a sporter, but now that I think about it leaving it in the original militaryfurniture may make it an even more appealing and unique to have it "look" stock but just modified "under the hood". Can always get a sporter uninletted stock, fit it for a drop in fit and then swap 'em out to fit the mood or situation. Keep it stock for the practice range and then drop it in a aftermarket for day or two of hunting. What do you think?

OK. I could not resist. Put in a low bid and low and behold I won it. Who would have guessed. Anyway this was advertised as a 1908 Brazilian which should have been a LR action. I have a Boyds stock I bought a while ago that is for a LR mauser. I thought this was a good fit for a future project after the upcoming deer season is over in January of 2010. Well upon reciept I discovered this is not a 1908 LR it is a 1894 SR mauser. So much for that idea. Overall I am not upset. I've wanted to work with a Swede small ring at some point. Guess I'll save this one and just barrel it in a 6.5 swede. My Braziwede! Here are some pics. Reciever was painted black and I just got done stripping off the black paint. It almost looks like it has some kinda plating... Not sure. It has some pitting, not too bad and the reciever ring surface has some scratches. I assume I will need to lathe or file the reciver ring face smooth again bfore rebarrleing, and I was thinking of having this action bead blasted to cover up the pitting or do think it is mild enough to just sand down to a 400 to 600 grit finish and blue?... Ideas welcome here. First time I will be building out from just the action. The trigger guard has a gap caused by a flared forward pillar. Easy enough to fix. The bolt looks good. The only thinf is it does not lock up tight. I can move the bolt back and forth when it is in the fire position. I know these military rifles have some pretty large tolerances, but not enough to actually move the bolt when it supposed to be closed. I did the down and dirty test for reciever set back and the bolt does not creep forward upon opening so I don't think it is the issue. The bolt does not appear to match the reciever. I am thinking a different bolt may lock up tighter? Not sure. Anyway this one is going in the future projects department and will be a "work on it when nothing else is happening" type thing.

Wow! Can't wait to see what you come up with! It will be an interesting challenge. The stock on the Steyr looks like a good one. Ought to clean up real well. The only type of mag I am familiar with is a box style mag. So I don't have any suggestions there until I get to see one in action. This is the only thing I can think of since I don't have one in front of me. Thread a spring through the clip wall to push up on the cartridges or thread a spring from the back of the clip to push them from the back to "help" them forward? Is it possible to ditch the clip and make it a box style mag with a follower plate? Even a single shot with a bench type plate would be beyond cool. 8uck5nort

I have been thinking about getting a stripped down bolt or two and then sending them out to have them cut, bent and swept back for low scope mounting. Question is, is this a waste of time? Is it best practice to use the original bolt that came with an action or rifle? Granted you buy just a reciever you will be shopping for a bolt. I am not sure if all "standard length" bolts will work on all standard length actions. I imagaine there are some differences. Would this open up a pandoras box of "well this worked in my german mauser, but not in the Brazilian action" (granting they are all standard length) Idea behind this would be to have a couple of finished stripped bolts on hand to just put in an action when I need them. I know an incorrectly heated and or/cut handle can be bad. Softens metal, messes up headspace, so I am leary about buying a already modified bolt. Maybe I am just being paranoid. What is a fair price on a bolt job cost anyway? 50.00 - 150.00??? Again thanks for the feedback in advance. 8uck5nort

Agreed. Or mounted in the bed of a pickup on a tripod!

To all, Again appreciate the feedback and thanks for answering some probably very basic questions. Well after reading everyones response it is obvious to me that this is a very specialized area of gunsmithing that you can't just take your action and rub some graphite on it or dip it in a carbon rich solution and heat it up. No matter how fancy the furnace you may have access to. The person heat treating sounds like they have to have a in depth knowledge of metalurgy as well as the composition of the action you are working with. Both of this I have little to none. In answer to the Brokengun, I don't think I need it at this time. I was just trying to figure out what this was for and why you would need to do it. Just learning, especially since critical body parts could utlimately be at stake. Now it is coming together: Now lets see if I got it straight. The critical contact points between your reciever and the bolt are the areas you shoud heat treat if there is any modification, such as lapping or trueing of the respective lug faces. These are extremely hard to get at in the reciever and this is why you should always have them done by a qualified Heat Treater who knows what they are doing. If done improperly it could cause at worst a catastrophic failure resulting in death, dismemberment or mutilation, not necissarily in that order... or if your lucky it can cause the the bolt to "sink" into reciever messing with your headspacing, right? Which effectivel toast the reiciever anyway, thus creating what someone called an expensive paperweight. As for cosmetic changes to the external shell of the reciever that does not trigger the need for re-heat treating. Ok if I got this pretty close someone give me a thumbs up or correct me.

Ahhh, good point. I actually was going to be present, but I guess I had not though out all the legal ramifications of leaving it in case it did not get finished. Man there is alot of gotchas when doing this stuff... Ok, but what about the technical part of sanding and stuff? I do have the concept right, correct?

Appreciate the replies, and all the info. I will definitely look into contacting Mike McCabe when I get going on my next mauser project. Hopefully in the next 3 or 4 months. I have asked the guy at the boltmaker what type of process they use and they said it varied depending on what the customer wanted. So not sure yet if that avenue is doable. Would be nice if it works out. Just to clarify so that I got it straight: If I take a reciever down to the "white" lets say with 220 or finer sanding. I effectively have removed the relatively thin hardened "shell". Thus anytime you mod an action by sanding/grinding/welding you should always heat treat before refinishing it? Yes?

Here is my question. I may have access to a heat treat facilityat a local bolt making facility. However, I know nothing about heat treating other than it hardens the steel. Is there some kinda special heat treat magic for a mauser or can run a stripped down reciever through a heat treat furnace and get pretty much the same hardening affect? As always looking to save some cash wherever possible, but not at the expense of my face and fingers.

Gotta love the cost analysis at the end of the article:P The cost of taking out insurgents jost got a little more cost effective.

Wow, great find. Love the specutlation on the rabbit. Is not that part of the fun. I think I just became a Leupold fan myself. I've never even owned one, but I think I will now. Just a quick and loosley related customer service note. This is for you guys that buy hunting calls. I will always buy a Primos. Long story short, they replaced the reeds in their call that I managed to mangle free of charge. They were very easy to work with and sent them for free even when I offered to pay for them. Can't beat that.

More good news! Got home from work yestarday and I had not one but two envelopes from BTF! Mmmmkay. I got green ATF form 7CR(5310.16) App for Collector of C&R and in a seperate envelope a yellow ATF form 7 (5310.12) App for FFL w/finger print cards???. The first set of forms is was what the young lady said I needed when I actually called BATF, and the former set of forms is what I think I ordered when trying to get stuff from the website. I am assuming here, but all I should need is the green C&R form, the 30 bucks and the name and address of my chief law enforcement officer? Fill out the form twice (once per copy) and send top copy it in to the address printed on the form (some place in Atlanta, GA), then provide the CLEO a copy by mail or in person, right? Nothing else? No magic or mysterious secret handshake??? It looks like the yellow form and fingerprint cards are for a business/FFL 1 not a FFL3 C&R or do I need them both?

Don't I feel silly, just got done going through the Straight Pull section of the forum and you guys were talking about converting the Styers along time ago. Oh well.

Very, very nice.

Appreciate all the feed back. Sonic1 I sent a message with more info.

Dealing with a newbie so bear with me. Where do you see the feed problems coming into play? Are the cartridges to far out spec to consider it possible or is it the clip style feed of the Styer the major stumbling block?

This was inspired by the earlier post of an Enfield 44 mag bolt action and the fact that I have been looking for that exact type of firearm for some time. Would it be possible to take a M95 Styer and conver it to a .357 or .44 remington mag bolt action with an appropriate re-barrel? I will be the first to admit that I am a novice at best, so don't know if this will work, but there are a lot of cheap Styers out there and in pretty good shape, but with a very limited ammo supply. I was thinking if you could get a Styer to use a common rimmed pistol caliber it might make a good source of future projects. Especially if someone can come up with a kit or a kit style parts list, etc. If someone thinks it is possible and feasible I would love some help doing the conversion. I'm not sure who has or where you could get a 18-22 inch .357 or .44 mag barrel, but I am sure someone can make it and thread to a Styer action. Let me know if this is just wishful thinking or am I onto something. Here is the bullet specs for both Parent case .44 Special Bullet diameter 0.429 in (10.9 mm) Neck diameter 0.457 in (11.6 mm) Base diameter 0.457 in (11.6 mm) Rim diameter 0.514 in (13.1 mm) Rim thickness 0.06 in (1.5 mm) Case length 1.285 in (32.6 mm) Overall length 1.61 in (41 mm) Rifling twist 1-38 Primer type Large pistol or .357 Mag Parent case .38 Special Case type Rimmed, straight Bullet diameter 0.357 in (9.1 mm) Neck diameter 0.379 in (9.6 mm) Base diameter 0.379 in (9.6 mm) Rim diameter 0.44 in (11.2 mm) Rim thickness 0.06 in (1.5 mm) Case length 1.29 in (33 mm) Overall length 1.59 in (40 mm) Primer type Small pistol, magnum Compared to a Steyr 56R Bullet Diameter .329 Case Neck Diameter .365 Case Shoulder Diamete .473 Case Base Diameter .491 Case Rim Diameter .554 Case Rim Thickness .060 Case Length 2.20 Overall Cartridge Length 3.02 Military Bullet Weight 206 Velocity 2300

Congratulations! I applied for the paper work more than a month ago (maybe two now) and am still waiting to get the forms from BATF to fill out. How long did it take you to get the forms in the first place and then once you filled them out how long did it take to get something back? Great List. Thanks for the info 724wd.

I am a little frustrated with our Federal government! I have applied for the forms on the ATF website twice, and have absolutley recieved nothing in the mail from them. Does it really take a month or more to send a couple of forms!!! Ok I am new to this, is this the way the ATF treats newcomers? Am I just being impatient? Does anyone have a better way of getting around asking for the silly forms so I can fill them out , pay my 30 bucks, and then proabably wait another month or better to actually get the license? Ok, I feel better now. Seriously though can anyone give some guidance? I would appreciate it. Darin

I have seen reference to something called reciever setback. From what little I understand this is a bad thing? What is it exctly and is there any signs you can look for when inspecting a rifle for purchase at a pawn shop/gun show? I have seen the Spanish Mauser and this particular issue mentioned in the some earlier posts. I am currenlty working on a LaCoruna 1951 mauser and sporterizing it or trying to anyway. I was getting ready to purchase a new trigger, follower, stock, extended plate release, glass bedding kit and a drop in scouting scope mount for it. Before I drop about what I paid for the rifle in upgrade parts is there a quick and dirty test to see if I need to be concerned? On another note I attended the Indy 1500 gun show last weekend and compared to the panic stampede from the show in March this one was pretty slow. I was looking for a 6.5mm Carcano, but not a single one. Ended up putting money towards reloading equipment. I picked up a used set of Hornady 8mm dies, your basic Lee breechloader kit equipment, a digital caliper and a pound of IMR powder. I just ordered the rest of the odds and ends I need from MidwayUSA and hope to have my first handload done and tested by end of this month. We'll see... We (family) will be getting a new digital camera for upcoming trip to Texas so I hope to have some pix posted of progress soon. Appreciate any feedback.

That is a great looking rifle. I have been looking for a bolt action in .44 remington mag for a deer rifle. (We can only use a rifle that uses certain pistol cartridges for deer season, strange, but true) I know Rugar makes/made the 77/44, but would rather have one in the unique department.