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I am plugging along on my 30-06 project with the full length stock. I can't remember who suggested this, but someone had/has used an old arrow shaft to help stiffen/strengthen their stocks. How did you do this and what are the caveats? I confess I have already cut a channel in my stock so I ask a little after the fact, but I am getting ready to do a full length bedding jogb on this rifle and action, and just wanted some advice if there is any to give. Did you fill the arrow with epoxy or plug? Stuff like that. I hope to have the stock completed by end of March and begin metal work. Hope to have rifle done by end of May. Will post some more progress pix once I get stock bedded.

Does it matter? Is it a bad thing or even illegal? Looking through some pics and noticed some had been blotted while others are not and it just kinda made me wonder about it. Thoughts welcome or even some cold hard facts. Darin

I detail stripped my CZ82 and stripped all the blueing and paint. I sand blasted it and then parked it. Several coats of Duracoat in SS and flat black. Then reassembled yesterday and squeezed of two rounds to check operation. And now for the ugly. I was in too much of a hurry and when tapping in the ejector pin the punch slipped a couple of times. I will have to break out the airbrush and touch up. I have a Wolff spring calibration pack that I will be installing and i also have to finish the site marks on the front and rear sites. Thinking an enamal flourescent green or red. I also have a set Marschal grips on order that should be here in a couple of weeks. They will be walnut, stained in red with a thumrest. My wife and kids got them for me for my Birthday.

FC already brought up fiscal policy, but this is an elaboration upon that theme. The ballooning federal debt threatens to enslave us all to the government. Tax burden was the catalyst for the founding of our country 200 years ago. Now we live with a burnden many multiples of the original burden. Our childrens children will be endentured before they are even born if we let the governement continue spending under their current fiscal policy. The government is creating a modern form of serfdom.

Looks awsome! Love the stock. I hope my two mauser projects come out looking as good as yours. Darin

Awesome. If I find anything else I'll send it your way.

I use a Droid Backflip.

Here is pics of progress, the good and the ugly. Still got a long way to go, but I'm getting there. Expect to finish this one out by March. Darin

The knot extends at and angle from the side of the barrel channel to the bottom. It was not very tightly packed into the grain and was disintegrating as I rasped. I have done my first epoxy coat and will sand that out tonight hopefully to see if that made any difference. I will try and get some pix uploaded as well. Just hope she holds together.

Houston we have a problem... I uncovered a good sized knot about 9 inches back from the forend. I am not sure what to do about it other than sealing it with epoxy as I go and hope it doesn't crack or fall out. My initial plan is to use a slow dry epoxy and slather it allover the knot, allow it to cure and then keep shaping the stock. Re-applying the epoxy as I go to keep reinforcing and hopefully seal and stabilize it. Not sure if this is the right thing or should I just abandone the manlicher look and cut the stock short? I think the knot will add some nice character to the project if it does't jepordize the integrity of the stock. I plan on free floating the barrel if that makes a difference. Darin

I really cant't see any spiral pattern, but maybe I am not looking at it the right way. I will try and get a light down the barrel and take a better look tonight. Actually I did run across the "don't use lead bullets in a polygonal barrel" a couple of times. I figured I would stay with jacketed myself. I do plan to reload for this caliber, but use Speer or Hornady bullets. I saw some of the cheaper hard cast lead bullets, but was not considering that due to what I read. Has anyone ever changed a barrel out on one of these? It is not the most friendly weapon to detail strip as I am finding out so If I need a new barrel now is the time to do it by my reckoning. Darin

Acquired a CZ82 a while back from CAI. I am currently in the process of disassembling to prakerize and duracoat. I am going to upgrade the recoil spring, and firing pin spring through Wolff and add some new grips for a self defense firearm. Question I have is there appears to be absolutely no rifling in the barrel. Looks as smooth as shotgun barrel. I have cleaned it til I am blue in the face, but see no rilfing what so ever. Initially thinking I got jipped I almost returned it. However, I started reading through some forums, etc... and everyone is saying that this is normal for polygonal rifling. Is this a load of BS or is this normal and I should not be concerned? I can pick up a new East German made barrel for 40 bucks , but I also understand it needs a special vice to replace the barrels which I found for around another 40 bucks. Anyway I have no idea as this is really my first foray into owning/refinishing/cusotmizing a pistol. Thanks in advance for your repsonses. Darin

I'm there Darin Westerhouse

That is where I would want a semi auto BAR, for the polar bear, I mean....

Ooooopsssss, I posted a silent reply. sorry! PM your address and we will work something out.

I have a German LR 98 barrel that was rechambered in 8mm-06. I beleive it still has the waffen stamps on the barrel. I took it off a sported mauser that I am turning into a 30-06. It appears to be in decent shape. Let me know if your interested and we can work something out in trade or if you wanna look at it I can post some pics. Darin

No problem. Stuff is just collecting dust anyhow.

I do have a bayonet and ammo pouch laying around. Let me know if this is what your looking for.

I will see what I got available. Maybe a bayonet or sling. I will let you know.

Progress Report! Chrerry Mannlicher stock for the 30-06. I am about 40% done with the rough shaping of the stock. I have started the inletting as well to hlep guide me. Made a mistake with the walnut grip cap by drilling two peg holes too deep and now have holes on the bottom side of the grip cap... Oh well. Don't know how I am going to fix that yet, but live and learn. At he rate I am going I have another 3-4 months of work before finishing. I do have a quick question. Do you need a metal end cap for a mannlicher style stock or is this purely personal prefernce? I am going to a have a claro walnut end cap and would hate to cover it up with a metal muzzle protector. Carcano in 357 max. Had the bolt worked and barrel and chamber worked. I will be sanding and then painting the stock in a yet to be determined manner. I like the turkington stock with the spider-web paint. That is apossibility. I have to figure out how to from a clip to get out of the single shot environment. I should be able to finsih this one well before deer season 2011 and have it ready to go. 7mm Mauser. No pix yet. Waiting on safety work to be completed and then I will post some pics of progress on that project. I should bring that one to a close some time this year as well. Any suggestions welcome. Darin

Appreciate the feedback. Thank You! lemski4: That is a great idea on calling the powder manufacturers. Never really though of calling them for a cartridge specific question. machinist1: I was using 158 and 140(?) gr Hornady and Speer bullets. I have a pretty accurate load at the 50 yard mark with HP38 (I am at work so can't confirm, but I am pretty sure that is the powder). Just didn't know if I could get more out of it with a different powder. I tried Herco and never got much accuracy at all. What I noticed was the HP38 was one of the faster burning powders according to the Lee reloading book I have. It just got me thinking and I in turn tried to dig up some information. I have not had much experience with any other types of powder so I was looking see what others were using and why they use it. I will be trying some different ones now working up some 44 mag loads as well through a rifle. Darin

I have been wondering about this since my deer season experience with the .357 mag rifle since I had mixed results. (In truth the more I have replayed the shot in my mind it was probably from my shot placement more than anything else, but work with me here). I am relatively new (less than 18 months reloading experience) so this may sound like a very basic question. If someone has a powder of choice for the 357 mag/max going out a 16 + inch barrel I am interested in your opinion, oh and now onto the question(s). Is it better to have a slower burning powder for the 357 mag/max rather than a quicker burning powder, which from what I understand, is usually associated with shorter barrels and/or pistol cartridges? So do you want something that burns faster building the pressure rapidly or something that burns slower building pressure down the length of the barrel, and how do you go about figuring that out exactly? I assume you chronograph for velocity and just look for excess pressure signs on your fired rounds... I read somewhere that faster burning pistol cartridge powders do not accelerate the projectile down the full length of the barrel when used in rilfes. If I remember correctly it implied that you lost velocity due to this and it was unsafe to "add a different powder" to increase the burn rate and thus increase velocity... I honestly don't know if this is total hogwash or is there something to it. As always I appreciate your responses, Darin

Wow, you are the man! Nothing like building your own and then letting it earn its spot in the gun cab. Nice Job! Keep 'em coming. Darin

That is a very nice looking rifle. I am sure your Dad will treasure it. I know I would if one of my son's built one for me. I may just try to build one for my Dad for Xmass 2011. Merry Christmass to All Darin