8uck5nort

I've been in IT for 10+ years so here is my take. E-mail harvesting is a BIG problem. The reality is your computer may not be the one that is infected. It may be someones PC you just happen to know and your address is int their address book. It may be the one infected and it has harvested your address and simply is spewing to commonly known people with your address as the sender when in fact it was harvested out of their computer... If you can't find anything with a currently updated Anti-Virus/Anti-Spyware product then the problem may not even be yours. However, until that particular computer is cleaned, wherever it is, you will continue to get reports of "Hey your sending pecker pill e-mails", and you can actually do nothing about it. You might also want to download Windows Defender. It is free from M$. Another layer of defense. The other issue is once a spyware app has a known good e-mail address it is usually sold to known spammers and then it just starts to snowball from there. What you can do about it is very little once your e-mail is known or "listed". Each person on thwe should be running some type of spam filter and it is their responsibility to filter the garbage they don't want. You can always change your address and the spam will go away for a time, but it always will come back. One other thing for all the non-Windows users. They are not immune to this either. It just affects Windows users to a larger proportion since the footprint of machines deployed worldwide are predomintently Windows... So thinking that you just buy a MAC and it will not happen again is an expensive mistake.

Not impressed so far. However, I have only ran 50 rounds of commercial Remington 45 colt using lead wad cutters. At 25 yards It did OK. I was putting 3-4 inch groupings on paper. I have noticed a lot of lead fouling when cleaning afterwards. Don't know if that is normal with this type of ammo or cause it is new gun and/or barrel. I got my 45 LC dies in and tumbled the brass so I am going to load up some Hornady flextip 225 gr bullets and some HP38 and Herco powder (not mixed of course) to see if this thing can perform better. I added a 4x32 Simmons scope to it as well. If I don't get decent groupings then I am going to trade it for something else. I gave into impulse and will probably eat some cash. I'll just look at it as "rental" gun. I have my eye on a few old milsurps at the local pawn... ;-)

Yes, that is how it was done. I took it to the indoor range yesterday during my lunch hour and at 25 yards from a bench I had a 5 shot group that punched out the bullseye using my hunting loads. I am really impressed with this rifle once I got a load that really shoots well. I am sure I am biased, but forgive me. :-) My other carcano shoots very well using the original 65 mm carcano. that is until my scope mount works loose. I am working on a better mount for it that will stay put.

I bought a pre-chambered barrel blank and had it fitted into the original barrel shank. So not sure about the reaming part. Ther original caliber was 6.5 mm carcano. This has a crude one shot mag/storage so the best I can do with the 357 mag shell is a single shot with a ready follow up. It does eject well. It may actually feed with the original clip system with the longer max round, but I haven't tried it.

I had issues with the scope mount on the .357 remington magnum built on a Italian Carcano. A little filing, leveling, and JB Weld bedding of the mount has it rock solid and dead on. Onto the reloading and range report. I have about 100 to 120 rounds through the rifle now and tested several different flavors. I have worked up the following hunting load. 7.5 gr of HP38 with a 140 gr Hornady bullet. The flex tip leverevolution stuff. So far I am getting consistent and very nice groupings at 55 yards. 1.5" high on the bullseye and sub 1 to 1.5 inch groups. The other combo this rifle likes is factory Winchester 158 JHP. It shoots about .5" low off the bullseye, but seems to group tighter. Gold Dot 158 JHP bullets using the same 7.5 gr of HP38 didn't do too bad. Tried loading up with Herco and the 140 gr Hornady bullets, but can't seem to get a load that performs as well. Very mild to little recoil. Should be a decent gun under 100 to 125 yards depending on what load I take into the field. Rifle for deer will not open until November, so I am putting the rifle down for a while and getting my bow tuned for the October 1st opener. :-)

Ouch. 100 bucks for a single shell. Still got out and hunted. Still have about 3 weeks before our hunting seasons open so I am jealous. Better luck next time.

Does Magnum Research still make the big bore eagles? That would be a pretty cool feature to switch calibers like that, but only if you could do it economically. I have found some 44 mags in the 500 to 600 dollar range so it is becoming more of a possibility. Not sure if that means "this is one messed up pistol"????

I am toying with the idea of picking one up. Don't know much about them, but want a side arm to accompany my growing pistol caliber rifle collection. I know it would be less expensive to go revolver (and I still might just do that). I am looking at one in 44 mag and/or in 357 mag for around 800 to 1000. That is a lot of change in my book so I am leary. Thanks for the advice in advance.

Well I got 10 rounds through it yesterday after work. The first five were wad cutters I bought from the local gunshop and they flew everwhere... I had some winchester hollow points and those finally got on the paper at 25 yards. Adjusted the sope a bit and then put a sub inch, three shot group, just to the left of the bullseye. Still have some tweaking to do before Sept Youth, but it looks like I got something to work with. It ejects the shells fine, and it is fairly easy to load the shell in the chamber by hand and the crude mag well/ramp keeps another one handy for a quick load and followup shot. I am handloading some .357 honady leverevolution bullets tonight to see if I can get the grouping tighter for deer season.

Yeah, It cured lighter than I thought it would. A dark brown would have been better or drab green. Still it was my duracoat test rifle and is unique. Should shoot nice. We will see tomorrow afternoon. Picked up a box of Norma ammo at a pawn shop for a song and will see what I can do. Hope to mash a yote or two. :-)

Here it is. Don't have the larger scope yet, but this one will do. Has timney trigger and the ATI stock is piller bedded useing brass pipe fittings.

Ok this one is done. My first park finsih. Did ok. It is blotchy in spots, but the part that shows did well. Rest is hidden under scope. Took almost an entire year.

Here are my 3 that I wrapped up this weekend. I may add a sling swivel the the carcanos for deer season. Just happy to finish them. More closeups are posted in respective threads.

This one is done enough for hunting season this year. May do some more with the stock bedding and duracoat touch up after deer season. I will be taking to the indoor range for boresighting and initial 25 yard shoot. Will report on what groups I am getting.

That is what I have done. I cleaned it out as best I could. Let the bullets and further cleaning do the rest.

Yup the duracoat in green is done. It is hanging in the basement to cure. Will get some pics up shortly with the fully assembled rifle and will get a range report soon. They say to let the duracoat cure for two weeks, but I don't know if I can wait that long. Had some parking solution leak into the barrel, so I have that issue to deal with too. Waiting for some advice on how to deal with it or if it is a concern at all. Darin.

I got two solid days of working with my rifles this weekend. I blasted, parked three rifles and duracoated two rifles to bring the projects to a completion. Pics coming soon. I finished my original Carcano in 6.5mm and left it parked. Will be taking that to the range Wednesday for the first time to see how it shoots. Left it in parked finish. The barrel seals held up and it look pretty good for my first parking job. Not perfect, but not bad. However, my Nagant and .357 Carcano I had issues with. Both leaked parking solutions into the barrels. I am getting silicone plugs next time instead of using cork. I have done some digging and you can remove parking with this: http://www.iosso.com/metal.htm QUICKSTRIP A revolutionary new product designed to remove parkerizing and blueing within minutes without etching. Just immerse parts into Quickstrip solution and let soak for several minutes. Watch closely until completely stripped, then remove, and rinse thoroughly with water. No need to bead blast. Solution is reusable. Quickstrip does not contain a rust inhibitor. Easy to use - little odor! Environmentally friendly. - Expensive at 30 bucks a bottle. That hopefully I'll never have to use again. But I have no experience. I was thinking of cleaning the barrels really good with a brass jag ot a bronze bristle brush and some quad 0 steel wool to smooth the parking back down to the metal and be done with it, but wanted some feedback. I am not entering these into any sharp shooting contest. They just have to hit a coyote or deers critical body mass at 100 to 200 yards and I'm happy. Won't the act of shooting wear the parking solution out anyway. The more I thought about it may even help the nagant since it had a used barrel and put material back in it. (Always the optimist) :-) Let me know your thoughts gentleman and appreciate them in advance. Darin

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Thanks DirtyJim, I did some reading up on the Buehler rings and these are older solid rings for older non-inert gas filled scopes. I guess I can't use these rings with a modern scope. Found some "newer" split rings for around 25.00 bucks. I've decided to keep and proceed with builidng out the action. Well its in the WD40 tank now. On another note I got a sandblater rig from harbor Freight and used air compressor from my Dad. It works for what I need it to do. So it looks like I'll be finishing some rifles in the next couple of weeks!

Awsome work. Hope to restore a Garand one day myself.

Here is the pics of the scope and mount. I was wroing it was a weaver V7. I also included the action drill and tap and barrel. Let me know what you guys think. Scope: Action: Barrel:

Ok, I'll get a pic or two posted tonight.

Thanks Tinker. I have not heard of or seen the Columbian modification, but if I'm understaing you correctly your telling me they carved out some of the meat in the primary lug ring to get a longer 30-06 to load by stripper clip. If that is the case this has to less material removed compared to that. I guess then it comes down to where the material is removed. I don't think they went completely through the action on the front dill and tap either. I am not going to push any envelopes here with trying to build a magnum action. Just would like to build a decent looking rifle that can shoot moderatly loadeded or commercial 30-06 for future hunting rifle. Do you have any idea on the Lyman scope? I am looking to replace the scope with a new one. Not sure this one is worth fixing. The rings and bridge are in real good shape as far as I can tell. Would like to get the rings off the scope tube but don't see a way to do it. Not sure how they got them on there in the first place. They look like solid pieces with a "split: along the bottom.

Went to the local gunshow today and had money in my pocket. Came home with a Nazi BCD action with all the waffen stamps. It had been rechambered to 8mm-06. It also had a peep sit affixed to it at one time, but someone replaced it with a Lyman scope (not in good shape) and scope bridge with low rings (havent figured out how to get that off the scope yet. Hoped to reuse the rings and scope bridge. So far so good right. Bolt has been turned down and low scope saftey already installed for 200 out the door. Thought I hade a decent deal, but when I took the scope bridge off I realized the screw spacing put right on top of the rear lug seating ring... Ok, I got a little upset, but then started to look more closely. The scope bridge is thick and the screws were fairly short. I inspected further and the screw hole do not go completely through the lug seating ring. I am soaking the action in WD-40 tank and will remove barrel to inspect the the other hole in a couple of weeks. So here is my question. When or was/is it safely acceptable to drill into the lugs rings, without going through, and not compromise the action? I know if you drill down into the face your screwed because you have compromised the hardened steel on the face of the lug. But if you drilled into the upper metal or well behind the lug seating face that should not compromise the action and make it a paper wieght, right??? I can post some pix. I had planned on making this a 30-06 by adding a new barrel since the mag well has been lengthened for 8mm-06. However, if it is questionable then I will eiher ditch it or thik about a much lower pressure round. The action is in very good shape with no rust or pitting. The barrel still has decent rifling in it. It would be real pity to junk this. Not sure what to do about the scope, wonder if Lyman has lifetime guarantees on scopes?

Unfortunately I have not fired it yet. I am going for the all or nothing approach. After I get it done I'll see how it shoots. Soon. Hopefully I'll have the metal work finished by End of August and the duracoat will have time to completely cure. I think I might get to pump a few rounds thorugh by first of September and my youngest son may take it on the early youth hunt by late September (if it shoots). We will see.