JoshF

Thanks. I ordered an action wrench last night. I m going to need it for my next project anyway. If I ever finish this one. LOL

If I had a screw small enough to fit the hole I suppose I could fill the scrw hole in the sight with some JB weld or something and then drill it to the the smaller size.

1. Im about to drill and tap this small ring 98 mauser Im working on. I have the sun optics jig and it seems to fit perfectly with the barrel still in the action. SO I am hoping to not remove the barrel from this one. How deep do I drill this thing? 2. Someone already added a remington style front sight. I want to add a 110 savage rear sight. It seems to fit the barrel contour perfectly where the original sight was. Can I drill the hole where the original was slightly deeper and larger to be tap it to hold the rear sight in place? Thanks for the help. I seacrhed the archives and still couldn't quite get clarity on performing these tasks

Possibly could. However Ive decided to use the crappy,messed up sporter stock that came with it. Why spend money when I can spend all my free time and learn useful skills. This thing is going to get a lot of fiberglass.

Thanks for the input guys. I was just really trying to do this all myself. But if the quality of the job will be sacrificed Ill get some help. I have a buddy with a lathe that loves tinkering with guns. Ill enlist his help when the time comes.

I dont have a mill or a lathe and it is unlikely I will be able to afford either one or find a place to put them. SO I was looking for an alternative to truing up the receiver faces and the inner ring on my mauser projects. Does this stuff seem like a viable option? http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=308_49&products_id=1299 http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=308_49&products_id=1236

Thanks guys. Im sure my next one will be better.

My first mauser bolt welded on. Used 220 mig. Brownells bolt handle,heat sink and heat paste. I underestimated how efficiently the heat sink would pull out heat. The next one I do I will have the welder turned up another heat notch. But I beat this thing off of my work bench as hard as I could. Didnt even shake. How did I do? I have since filed and shaped and smoothed lot more.

Also Don are you telling me this thing is a deathtrap? The plan was to finish what bubba started. A decent stock,drill and tap for a scope and a duracoat job. Probably only ever shoot cast bullets out of it.

Yep definitely small ring. I was hoping I could use any small ring stock or use a large ring stock and fill the void with bedding compound.

Im looking for a stock for a Danzig Kar98 small ring. Im not sure if any other small ring stocks will fit or exactly what I need. Any tips?

Ok guys. The one i was looking at fell through but I picked up a 1909 danzig kar 98 in a sporter stock. It is my understanding these should be treated like the pre 98 small rings as far as pressure limits. Im cleaning it up right now and Ill fill the screw holes in the trigger guard in the next day or so. I would like to see how it shoots as it is currently barreled but there is no rear sight or scope. So the next order of business will be drilling and tapping for a scope. Im thinking about buying the jig and giving this a shot myself. Any suggestions as to safety to clear scope. I see some of the triggers have a safety built into them but Im not sure what it takes to make this work.

I am a big believer in sierra bullets. I have decent luck with speer but it seems sierra stuff just shoots better every time. At least my 270,30-30,308 and 45 acp loads seem to always shoot better with sierra.

I've never welded a bolt before but I have done a lot of different welding so Ill try to chime in. Don is right with OLDER being the key word. The uniform companies I have used over the years have not made good welding rods since the 90's. Tractor supply has rod for use with oxy/acet welding if you do not have a welding supply near you. I have used a lot of door lock rods out of cars also. I actually prefer them to real welding rods if I have to weld with gas. I wonder how a mig will work for this sort of thing? It seems to me a mig is hard to beat for almost any situation. You can get a small 110 mig cheap. I have been considering one of these cheap plasma cutter/tig welder combo units. Im thinking about it specifically for firearms work if I ever finish the other projects I have. I've never tigged before but it can't be impossible to learn. Ps if you try a mig get a treal mig not a flux core wire welder. Much better job and much easier to weld without overheating metal.

There is a Mauser listed in one of the classified sites about an hour away from me. Supposed to be sporterized with fajen stock and turn down bolt chambered in 7 x 57. Assuming this is probably a small ring mauser (owner has no idea) is it suitable to rebarrel to 6mm or 22-250? Are short chambered barrels as cheap and easy to find as large ring barrels? Does this seem like a suitable candidate for my first project?

We had low 90's and high humidity. pretty warm for western PA. We watered the heck out of the gardens at night and filled kidde pools for the ducks. We just left the hose trickle under a shade tree in the chicken fence and they seemed to enjoy that. Thankfully it is not as hot or humid today. 85 here.

That looks great.

I found this barrel on gunbroker that uses a lock ring like a savage and it seems like it may be just the ticket for a first rifle building project. Will this be ok for use on a yugo 24/47? http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=291599279 Thanks again josh

Thanks everyone. Im leaning toward just sending this to er shaw and forgetting about it until about Christmas. I realy want to build a custom rifle myself but this does not seem like the best rifle for a beginner. I may look into a mauser. This forum is a wealth of information. Ill keep reading threads until I make any decisions.

Thank you for the replys and suggestions. I have contacted ER shaw and they are certainly the least expensive at around 300. Unfortunately the turn around is 5 months for them. Numrich has a replacement 30-06 barrel for about 100.00 bucks as another option. I will try a couple more smiths and see if they could install a barrel any sooner than 5 months. I have seen a mauser barrel made to take a lock ring like a savage. Is there any way a 1917 barrel could be be machined this way? Also this has had the ears milled off and the big hole filled.It has been contoured to 700 rem bases but unfortunately it has been drilled and tapped wrong, twice. Is there any method feasible to repair the off center screw holes and re-drill?

Hi,Im josh and I'm addicted to sporter milsurps. I have been searching this site and reading for days but I still have a lot of questions. Please bear with me Im sorry for the long thread and what must seem like dumb questions. Long story short I just swapped a rifle I disliked for a sporterized 1917 Enfield. I absolutely love it except for the barrel is terrible. I would like to re barrel it and possibly for another caliber. Problem is this is not something I have ever done and do not have the tools. I have considered buying barrel and action wrenches but contouring a barrel without a lathe does not seem feasible. I have talked to the only two gunsmiths withing an hours drive and neither seemed very interested. The only one that would even talk pricing had a rough estimate in the neighborhood of 500 bucks to install barrel,contour and head-space. But he was having trouble finding a blank that was large enough for the threads.I am sure he is a probably a great craftsman and deserves to earn all he can but that seems a little steep to me. I guess questions are as follows. 1. Is this a reasonable price for this work. 2. If I find a pre-contoured barrel is this something within the realm of a beginner. (my background is a mechanic and I have fabricated a lot for jeeps and hot rods as well as tinkered a little with guns) 3. Where can I find a barrel for this rifle that is something other than 30caliber? I would really prefer 270. Thanks for the help Josh