richp41

I use the Lyman 170 gr round nose in my Model 94 all the time. I load them to 1600 to 1800 fps and have no trouble with primer denting. The bullet -311291-- is very round on the end and not much differnt form the profile on many 30/30 factory bullets. It is also superbly accurate in this little lever gun.

Sounds like this guy is a good candidate for a white cane and guide dog --- at the best. Most of the MNs run over .312" and some run as high at .315" That's way oversize for a .308 bullet and I doubt whether it will even begin to obturate enough to grab the rifling--- especially after the base of the grossly undersized case blows out and let a lot of the gas back into the action and shooter's face. But if he wants to do it, who are we to defy the "Laws of Natural Selection". Just remember ignorance can be cured, stupid is forever.

Spiris, I use 3 parts of linotype to 7 parts of wheelweight to get the hardness I like. I usually make 2 or 3 batches at one time and when I start casting I use equal numbers of ingots from each batch to produce a very consistent alloy makeup. The 4227 and 4198 powders should work also with just a bit of charge weight adjustment. Rich

I do a lot of lead shooting with the MNs I own using the Lyman 314299 mold and the LEE 185 GR mold. I size just slightly over groove diameter and hold velocity to 1500 to 1800 fps. I have found that quenching is not necessary or advantageous at these speed. The alloy I use is 92% lead, 6 % antimony and 2 % tin and I get this by using wheelweights supplemented with linotype and pure tin. This produces a Brinell hardness of about 15 and is perfect for all my rifle needs. Remember-- quenched bullets soften with aging and as-cast harden with age. On a good day with my 66 year old eyes these loads are good for 1.0 to 1.5 " at 100 yds with iron sights. My powder of choice with these bullets is SR4759 and amounts between 16 to 18 grs will tune in excellent accuracy. I've been casting for nearly 45 years and have gone down a variety of experimental roads, but what I have given here has worked best for me. Additionally, the batch of Lapua cases I use have gone over 45 reloadings with only one case mouth failure and I only neck size. Good luck in your efforts. Rich P

Nels , I used the sights from the Turk barrel that was removed. The Samco Swede barrel was dimensionally identical to the Turk barrel. Rich

The Twede conversion is superb. I did one 2 years ago and used a new barrel from the Swedish Mauser that was 29" long. The converted action and barrel dropped right back into the Turk stock. Only by looking at the smaller bore could you tell a change has been made. I later glass bedded the action, free floated the barrel, installed a Timney trigger, Lyman receiver sight and a taller front sight. With select hand loads it will shoot 5 shot groups consistently at 1" at 100 yds with the iron sights. My 65 year old eyes can't do much better than that. The cartridge will handle all North American game except the big bears. It's long, slender length gives superb penetration and it is the number one moose cartridge in Sweden. In the Mauser 98 action it can be loaded a little stouter than in the older, weaker M96 action and the 29" barrel squeezes all the velocity possible out of the round. If you're not a reloader, factory ammo is available from all the major ammo companies. Rich P

Squib, I don't know where you're located but I can tell you that Jim MCCollum at Circlewood Gun Shop replaced a VZ24 barrel for me with a brand new VZ barrel he had in stock. If you're interested call him at 205-752-7011. He is located in Duncanvile,AL.

My Twede shot 129 gr Hornadys very well with 45 grs of IMR 4350 and seated 3.110" for MY rifle. Five shots stayed in 2.0" with 4 of those 5 in 1.25"--- with iron sights. I suspect that the 6.5 Swede may have to be pushed fairly fast -- like a .270 Win. -- to get the most out of it. I don't know if that load is reasonable for a Swede action because my Twede is built on the Turk 98 action. Rich P

Kyle, I just got my computer back on line and saw your question about the 8mm-o6. I've been reloading and shooting a converted Turk for several years and have had some worthwhile experience with this cartridge using both jacketed and lead bullets. If you have specific questions I'll answer based on my experience and we can avoid generalizations and opinions. This is probabaly one of the oldest wildcats because of the number of souvenir guns brought home from 2 world wars. Mine was converted when I found my Turk to have a very long throat that adversely affected accuracy. A quick reaming to accomodate the longer case corrected that problem. It will handle bullets from 125 grs to 250 grs and ends up shooting just a shade faster than the 30-06 with similar bullet weights. Powder and load guidelines can pretty much be gathered from 30-06 data. The larger bore slightly reduces pressure and allows a slight increase in pewder charges over the -06. Shoot a box or two of 200 or 220 gr full power loads and you realize this is not a powder puff cartridge. Lead bullets at 260 to 275 grs also get a fair deal of attention even at reduced velocity. The conversion of 30-06 to 8mm-06 is very simple and straight forward-- just run fired 30-06 cases thru a 8mm-06 full length sizing die. I also used 35 Whelen cases but don't recommend that unless you have a goodly amount of reloading experience and won't elaborate now. Rich P

The 8mm-06 is an old wildcat that goes back to the end of WWII. All it take is to have a gunsmith lengthen the chamber with the appropriate reamer and you're in business. It eliminates the very long throat of most Mausers and I've made cases from 30-06 and 35 Whalen brass. Both of these are still dirt cheap. Slugs from 125 grains to 250 grains are available and velocities that slightly exceed the 30-06 are possible with no greater pressures. Dies are not expensive either and I got a set from Redding. Rich P

I second the recommendation on the Herters stain from Brownell. rRch P