cameleon

By the way I think the problem with the extractor jumping forward out of it's slot was more do to the tension of the extractor not the band. I bent the body of the extractor to give more tension. Seems tighter now. We'll see.

I think I would have been closer to center at 100yds. I think the inst that came with the Tasco said it was centered at 100yds. As I said have not done much rifle/scope shooting. Actually somewhat better with irons and Kentucky windage.

Finally got to the range with my Spanish sporter .243. Set up at 50 yds. Didn't bring the right targets. Was using my homemade white with 1in sq blk center. Good for handguns out to 15 yds but not so much at 50. Had 20 rounds of Monarch ammo. Should have realized the hole of a 243 is about as big as a 22. Was using an inexspensive Tasco 3x9-40 scope. Also I'm not much of a long gun shooter and don't bench shoot much. Can't get comfortable behind the rife. Took me awhile to realize I was about 10 in high. Adj the scope and got closer to the center but then the ammo ran out. Had 1 problem: On a couple of rounds the extractor got pulled forward. What I determined is the band around the bolt that the extractor body slides over needed to be spread out more. There is a lot of play in it. Hope it holds. Sorry no target pics. I had to use the men's room and my son covered them with his target when he went over to the pistol side. Other then the extractor problem the rifle seems ok. Probably wasted on me. But I'm having fun. Maybe a better report next time.

My sporter is a cock on closing type with a 2 position safety. Somewhat of a pain for me to disassembly the bolt fully. I saw the tips on taking it down by putting the sear nub against the edge of a table and pulling the bolt so you can wedge the cocking piece to stay open. I can get it but have to play around with it. At 69 maybe the grip is not what it used to be. On you tube a guy had a similar setup with a Buehler safety. However, his cocking piece had a notch that he used the rim of a case to pull it open. Mine does not have a notch. So I cut a notch in mine but still no dice on trying to pull it open. Could not get a good purchase on it. Was thinking about a notch on the other side and using a nipper to grab it on both sides. But I hesitated. Didn't want to do too much cutting. So I looked around my stuff and found an old fashioned house fuse puller. It worked perfectly even though only one side grabbed the notch. Just grip it firm and I can get a dime in to wedge it. A little crude but much, much easier to work. By the way it's done with the bolt still in the rifle. Leaves a hand free.

90% of the time I have no problem. Just have to be firm with the bolt. I guess the setup is not to forgiving if I'm slow with the bolt. Kinda like a pump shotgun. Gotta rack it like you mean it. LOL.

You are right. Now I'm thinking the shoulder plays more a part in this. I was slowly cycling a round and although this time the bullet nose did not hit the outer chamber, it went in, but the shoulder was more resistant to the bolt closing. As compared to my Yugo 24/47 the longer, small shoulder 8mm just slides right in. IMHO conversions to a different caliber may have inherent characteristics that may not always be overcome. Just accommodated to.

Appreciate the tips. The kit may be a good idea as it comes with a new spring which I'm thinking may be the problem. The old one may not have enough omph to push the round up all the way when the bolt is moving slower. May be working the bolt faster gives it a little more spring. Also the thicker shoulder of the 243 may also add to resistance of the round going in if the bolt is not worked smartly. This is just a fun shooter. I haven't hunted in decades and only have a public range to do a little plinking. I'm not going nuts over it. LOL.

The shorter .243 is not quite in the chamber as much as the original 8mm would be. It seems as the bolt is closing and the round is coming up under the extractor it will not slide up enough under the extractor if working the bolt slow. This presents a different angle into the chamber. If I am robust in chambering a round there is no problem. But as I am driving the bolt home fast I can not really see what is going on differently. I can only guess that the rim is more up the bolt face and at a better angle.

Also I'm not used to cock on close bolt. If I'm not concentrating I can get hung up with that resistance at the end of bolt travel. I think a cock on open would be better suited to cycling these short rounds. You can drive it home easier. For me the cock on close can get kinda herky jerky.

Yeah, yours sounds the opposite of mine. I'm thinking the shorter .243 is not supported enough the whole way into the chamber. So if you hit it fast the front nose jumps up and clears the opening of the chamber. If you're to slow the nose drops down and gets hung up. I'll leave well enough alone. Like I said more of a nuisance. Just have to remember to be robust getting the bolt home.

I have a Spanish sporter in.243. I'm using Monarch soft points (all I could find local). If I drive the bolt home with vigor the round hits the ramp and up and over into the chamber. If I'm a little sluggish driving the bolt home sometimes the bullet nose dives and hits the outer lower part of the chamber and does not make it in. It gets hung up. More of a nuisance as most times it's ok. A problem or "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Thanks for any input.

I think your right about the Mitchel's from what I've read. Not a real collectors item but ok as shooters if in good condition. But many feel too expensive for just a shooter. I think many of the real collectors feel that they're advertising was borderline deceptive. I'm leaning toward the Yugo also. Your advice is appreciated.

I just picked up my first Mauser. A sporter which I thought was an FN but it's Spanish. I have a post on it. I never see these Mausers around here at all now they're popping up all over. I now have a chance at a used Mitchel Mauser k98 or a Yugo 24/47(not a Mitchel). Both at 250. Both in good shape. Bores clean, sharp etc. All things being equal which one is preferred? I know get both but can't swing that. To throw a curve into this there is also a sporter Swiss k-11 in the orig 7.5x55 caliber for 200. Decisions,decisions. The 24/47 has matching numbers.

Like azrednek stated I think the .243 is a nice all purpose round. I think Hottenstein was experienced enough to know what his build could take. I had the stock off and it was clean as a whistle. Even after all these years. No rust, gunk crap etc. Just wood and metal. I gave it a good wipe down with Ballistol, I love the stuff, natural and user friendly. No cancer causing elements. A good clp.Then put it back together. I should have taken a pic so you guys could explain the bedding procedure he used. Next time.

That's why I come to the experts. I'm not a serious collector but like to know what I have. Usually I'll stumble across something that fits my budget then I'll find out more about it. Like my Mak90. Usually AK'S were out of my budget but I came across a well worn in a pawn shop. Wood needed a little tlc and the underfolder did not fold, was bolted in place, but it shot great. So I expanded my limited knowledge of AK'S with that one. Study firearms and you pretty much study the history of the world.

I redid this reply. You got me thinking. Did I really see fn? I just took a cursory look at the time and there was some gunk kinda smeared over it. I saw Fabri something and do to my ignorance presumed FN. I had to look again. Took mount off and lightly cleaned some of the gunk off with 0000 steel wool. Nothing else would work. It's a Fabrica de Armas oviedo markings. I am not disappointed in the least. I would rather know then be wrong. Thanks for your expert info.

By the way something just drew me to this rifle. I was actually looking for a budget bolt action like a Rem 770 or 700 maybe a Savage Axis etc. Then I was spinning a turntable rack of rifles and this just stood out to me. Didn't know much about the sporters. I went home a did a little research and it was still there when I went back. I paid 275 otd. Fair price? I was almost tempted to buy a used Mitchel Mauser that was there. Must have been fate that saved me. LOL.

Sorry I wasn't clear enough. I was referring to the ammo not the rifle. The ammo and my skill probably is not doing the rifle justice. I'm sure it's a better shooter then I am. LOL.

Also looks like a good floating job on the barrel. I can pass a dollar bill up the barrel to the receiver. When I try to squeeze the barrel and front of forearm together it does not make contact. At least this was the way I was told to check. Haven't separated the action from stock to look around.

I gotta get to the range yet. I live in the burbs and only have the public range. It will only be a fun shooter. I haven't hunted in decades and never really did too much with long guns. At 68 just looking for a little fun. Picked up an inexpensive Tasco 3x9 40.scope. Should be adequate for my needs and skill. Also,I'm getting over a nasty flu. Can't remember the last time I was sick. Must be something nasty going around. Will let you know how it shoots as soon as I can. Picked up some Monarch ammo at academy. Not the best I know but retired on a budget so I gotta make do. Thanks for all the input.

I recently picked up this FN sporter. It is in .243. The action is a Fabrique Nationale. From my studying up on Mausers it seems to be a small ring large action. It is a cock on closing bolt. The stock is a Bishop. I found out some history on it. On the barrel it's stamped Richland Gun Shop. I emailed a Richland Shooters in Lebanon Pa. It was one of theirs. Made by a Carl Hottenstein. I Googled some info on him. Seems he was a well respected gunsmith and bench rest shooter in the Pa area. From what I was told he used Douglas premium barrels. It is also fitted with a Dayton Triaster Mark11 safety. Carl passed in 1998.

Thanks. By the way when getting it out the rest of the way do I leave my allen in the slot or remove it?

Thank you gentlemen. It worked. What I was doing, with bolt out of rifle, was turning the handle down so I could engage safety. Not necessary. Once slot is exposed, like in that illustration, I just stuck an allen key in it. Pressure off. Assy unscrewed. Fp/spring exposed. Removed allen and spring relaxed so I could clean between coils. A little tricky getting allen back but got it. If I ever have to replace fp/spring I'll go further. It does not seem to be a screw type. At least I feel better that I can do normal maintenance. Thanks for your efforts.

Thanks for the info and links. I'll give it a shot.

My safety has only 2 positions. Down, RIGHT is fire. About 1/4 inch up, as if rotating towards left engages safety.