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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

What Model Is This?


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Hi fellas. So far I can't figure out what model of S&W DA in .38 S&W this is. Last date is 1880. I am going to an auction this morning selling one without any finish left, but in good working order. I'd like to figure out value. Slight pitting. I can't find this revolver anywhere in my searches except that in 1881 S&W started making ..38 S&W DA revolvers. post-1-0-63143200-1361621731_thumb.jpg

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Here are pictures of the actual gun I bought. The first picture is from one someone is selling online. Mine does not have the scratch ring that happens after a revolver has been fired very much, but the surface isn't as pretty as the first picture. Glad you like it. Guess what? It's so light and well made that it only weighs 1.13 lbs.! Barrel is 4 3/4 inches long.

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Well, S&W Forum said I've overpaid! Oh well, it will be fun to shoot. So far it sounds like a 4th model. We'll see if they venture a date. As always, my grandpa was right, "An education is expensive." At least it's in great shooting order!

 

The 3rd Model was produced from 1882-1883 with a total of 22,000 before the much more prolific 4th Model (240,000) made its debut later in the year and was produced up through the year 1909. The serial number of this gun is in the 37,000 range and falls within the 3rd Model range 22,000-43,000. Overall condition is NRA Excellent with metal retaining 92% bright original nickel with some flaking due to improper storage. Both the hammer and trigger retain 85% original case colors while the trigger guard and barrel latch show 95% original blue. Checkered hard rubber grips are perfect with sharp checkering, no chips, cracks, or repairs. Action works perfectly in both single and double action modes. Barrel locks up tight to frame with no play or wiggle. Excellent bore...bright and shiny with perfect rifling. The box is a little frayed on the corners but is in good solid condition and has survived 125 years with its original orange end label intact which correctly verifies the configuration of its little occupant. It reads "SMITH AND WESSON / DOUBLE 32 ACTION / NICKEL. 3 INCH." The inside of the box is missing a portion of the inner cardboard lining...otherwise its complete and this could be fixed quite easily if desired. Original instructions are still intact on the underside of the lid and are completely legible. A nice example of an Early 1880's vintage S&W Double Action.

 

Here is a post about 4th models: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-antiques/255857-s-w-38-da-4th-model.html

 

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-291644.html gives values.

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Not yet. I've had to order reloading components from three different places. I got the brass today. Bullets have to be made. One, Graf, I think, has a crazy long time to ship- like 3 more weeks! I plan to use black powder. When I shoot it I'll post though.

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  • 1 month later...

Yea! I had a bear of a time figuring out how to get the trigger spring and trigger guard back on this S&W 4th Model DA, but now I figured it out. The trigger guard is spring-loaded, with tabs. The front goes first, then lay the spring on. The trick is that the spring MUST be beneath a little piece jutting out from the trigger. Then put the back part of the guard up into the tab.

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I agree. Tough finding .360 bullets in stock!

There are bullet molds available but it is not that hard enlarging an aluminum .358 Lee brand mold. Sizing is the key. If you enlarge the mold, get it out of round or slightly egg shaped. A run through a sizing die will fix it. Not trying to run you off but the Cast Boolit board (yes the mis-spelling is correct) will get you the assistance and possibly molds and sizing dies. Long before ammo prices went crazy, the 38 S&W was high priced. Today, providing you can find it. The price will be ridicules.

 

EDIT: Here is a source on cast bullets. This guy is slow but very reasonably priced.

http://www.mattsbullets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=72&zenid=7fvp8era5hqh8voosjpg6hh684

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I bought an antique Ideal mould, .361. The bullets are around 167 grains.

 

Once again- trouble with the old revolver- cylinder won't lock up. Time to see about sending it to Mr. Chicoine. http://oldwestgunsmith.com/. Click on "gunsmith".

 

I made a cartridge with 3F black powder. Pitiful speed around 230 fps. Another thing- Universal Clays has wildly varying speeds, probably due to how little powder rattles around in the case. I think Trail Boss by IMR is worth looking at.

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I bought an antique Ideal mould, .361. The bullets are around 167 grains.

 

Once again- trouble with the old revolver- cylinder won't lock up. Time to see about sending it to Mr. Chicoine. http://oldwestgunsmith.com/. Click on "gunsmith".

 

I made a cartridge with 3F black powder. Pitiful speed around 230 fps. Another thing- Universal Clays has wildly varying speeds, probably due to how little powder rattles around in the case. I think Trail Boss by IMR is worth looking at.

 

Tony been more years than I want to remember. Friend of mine used to use Bullseye in his H&R top break 38 S&W. I wouldn't even want to speculate as to the charge or bullet weight. I suggest you slug the bore and cylinders to get the best bullet size. There is a possibility .361 might be a hair or two small or large. If memory serves me correctly many of the old black powder cartridges used a hollow based bullet to help compensate for variances in bore and cylinder mouth sizes. The hollow based easily enabled the slug to expand or squeeze down to properly fill the bore. If I'm not mistaken or mis-led by internet chatter. Remington 45 Colt factory lead ammo still to this day is loaded with a hollow based pure lead slug. 45 Colt started out with a .454 bore and for some reason after WW2 it was changed to .452. For safety's sake, it might be wise to do your casting with soft pure lead.

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