Stock On My 35 Whelen Cracked.

[rdm1962]

I've know about this for around a month or so. At the last range session groups went from 1" to 5" with in 20 rounds. I knew something was up. When I got home I saw a crack in the wrist. I didn't want to pull it apart until after I got back from Deer hunting. Well I'm back and here is what I found. The "bump" for the floor plate catch was in contact with the stock. It acted like a splitting wedge. The 35 was my first build and I guess this was a rookie mistake. I checked my 280 Rem, Yugo 8x57 and 308 for Daughter. The 280 and 8x57 had plenty of clearance. The 308 is still on the bench. It was almost in contact in the same area. I re-leaved it to avoid any future problems.

 

So do I try to put in a pin and Accu-glass it? Order a new stock and start over. I have been wanting to try my hand at checkering. This old stock could make for good practice. What ever I do it won't be in a hurry. I still have my Daughters 308 to finish. The 8x57 isn't finished yet either.

 

I'll keep you guys informed on what ever I do. Ralph

[gun nutty]

 

 

The Midway guy used Gorilla glue. Biggest thing appears to be getting the glue to flow through the cracks.

 

Could you spread the stock, drill a "plunge" hole from the inside of the stock, then push the glue through the crack?

 

I'm surprised the laminate split; I always figured laminate was super tough. I guess recoil can be a real monster to a stock.

[Clemson]

The pin isn't a bad idea. I use standard Acraglas (not Gel) to repair cracks. Use compressed air to force the epoxy into the crack, then wrap the repair with surgical tubing overnight.

 

Bill Jacobs

[AzRednek]

Stocks I've repaired, in the recoil lug area I drill a hole and install a wood screw. I put the screw in deep enough that it is below the level of the exterior and fill the hole with putty. The screw will keep the expanding glue from forcing the wood apart. The glue that expands out I dremel down smooth. I use nylon reinforced tape pulled tightly to keep the wood together.

[gun nutty]

Use compressed air to force the epoxy into the crack

That's a great idea!

[rdm1962]

Thanks, lot of great advice as usual Guys. I think I will give the Accu-Glass a try. I'll keep you informed. Ralph

[AzRednek]

Thanks, lot of great advice as usual Guys. I think I will give the Accu-Glass a try. I'll keep you informed. Ralph

 

Better than Gorilla Glue in my experience. Gorilla Glue expands as it dries and can force the repaired wood apart. I have an old Stevens 311 double barrel. I repaired the buttstock 25+ years ago with yellow Elmer's Glue and it is still holding up just fine.

[donmarkey]

Bed the action again. The action is moving, which allowed the wedge to split the stock. If you don't bed it right cracks will probably appear in other areas like the tang.

Don

[rdm1962]

Bed the action again. The action is moving, which allowed the wedge to split the stock. If you don't bed it right cracks will probably appear in other areas like the tang.

Don

I was thinking it would need to be re-bedded. I will be getting to it in a week or so. Ralph

[ken98k]

I usually leave a little relief space at the tang end to prevent splitting at the wrist.

The tang should sit on top of the wood but should not have any rearward contact under recoil.

Neither should the rear action screw contact wood.

[lemski4]

Looks like there isn't any bedding in the back part of the action, and the rear tang may be a little tight? Repair crack, re inlet and full length bed at least the hole action area.