spec4 e4 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 While at my dad's house, my two aunts where down there. They asked me if I want a 62 Ford f100. Told them hell yes. Only one problem. Belong to my great aunt who pass back in 2001. Trying to get a title for it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Hess Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 What state do you live in? In Arkansas, over 25 years and you can get an antique plate title with only a bill of sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlunity Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Fixing or full restoring? Either way ..it looks like fun karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Truck is in Ar. Photo was taken by my cousin. Restore and some modification to it. Update brakes system. Might put in a higher rear end. Paint the same way but with pearl red and pear white. Red interior like seat, steering wheel thing like that. But the metal stuff pearl white. It has that 300 engine in it with 3 speed on the tree. It will be off the frame restoration. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Hess Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Get a bill of sale from whoever owns it now. Even if it is for ten dollars. With that and insurance (if you are in Arkansas), you can get an antique title at the tax office. If you are outside of Arkansas, whoever is here can take the bill of sale to them and get a title, then sell it to you in whatever state you are in and transfer the title. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 If it is the Twin-I-Beam front suspension which I'm not sure began in 62 or 63. NOW is the time to begin saturating the king pins with penetrating oil. The nylon/plastic bushing is likely dry rotted and the king pins are rusted in tight. If it has the power assist, not simply power steering you might want to reconsider restoring it. The power assist parts when they can be located will break the bank. Normal power steering, not a problem. Chances are good it being a straight 6, 3 on a tree. It doesn't have what was then considered luxury items like power steering, brakes etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Lu 300 3 on the tree, that's right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 After talking to AR. MVA, I can claim it. Just need to get a few things and get the title in my name. Move it to my dad's while I build my she'd out back and clear out the garage. Using one area for the body and the other for the frame. Getting both the frame and body blasted and the frame powder coated. After building the frame to a rolling frame, then I work on the body. Might take me a few years but I will get her done. Was thinking after all that work is done, I was thinking of putting my great aunt name on the driver side rear of the be, because when I look at the truck it remind me of her. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Brakes on a 62 are going to be a real SOB. Non-power brakes with the metallic brake shoes available today is going to take some muscle power to stop. When I was restoring VW Beetles I could still buy asbestos shoes in Mexico. I don't know if they are still available or not. You will be wise to convert the brake system to a tandem master cylinder and seriously consider converting the front to disc. A 62 model, lose the brakes on any wheel the entire brake system is lost. With the additional pressure needed to stop with metallic shoes. A leak anywhere in the brake system could have some dangerous results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Az, way ahead of you. This one of three major update that I am going to do. Front brakes rotor systems with booster and 2 chamber master cylinder will cost me about $700.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 If the motor is bad, will convert it to a 301 or 351. Move the Shifter to the floor but ran when it was park so I am hoping it just need a little help to brake free. Since I am tearing the rear end apart 5 be re powder coated, I am hoping for a rear rotor kit as wheel. Those are the three updates. But I hope that I can save the drive train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Are you fortunate enough to have the limited slip differential, Ford's half-arsed version of GM's positraction?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec4 e4 Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 I really can't remember bit will find out when I open it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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