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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Squib


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I had a squib in my S&W lemon squeezer. I cast bullets and loaded black powder cartridges. I was having fun shooting a bunch of rounds when I heard the squib. No matter what I tried I couldn’t get it out, even trying to hammer it out with an iron rod! I was dumbfounded! I even tried to drill a hole in it, but I couldn’t! I was down to the last resort- acetylene torch. I heated the barrel to a low cherry red, but even so, it took quite a while to melt the bullet. I quenched the barrel, and it looks fine; no bulge or deformity. I think there were 3 reasons this happened: low case volume for black powder; fouling buildup; and definitely a high tin content. What melted out was light. I did throw some lead alloy in the pot I found from a fire on the place before I bought it. I’m sure it was a melted car battery. 

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That sounded stuck.  I think cherry red may have bee a bit too much heat, but as long as it came out.  Aren't you supposed to use pure lead for black powder?  I have never messed with the BP stuff.  I have enough projects as it is.

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Tony not sure of the details but I recall reading several years ago warnings in gun rags against using car battery lead. Melting it I belive causes it to produce a deadly gas. Have to bear in mind being in gun rags the influence of advertisers. Possibly it was a rumor created by a lead distributor. Modern low maintenance car batteries using lead plates from what I was told years ago are made with a compressed powdered lead in a chemical bath. The process is supposed to resist car battery plates from sulfating. Might be the other chemicals the warnings were about. 

Doc is right. Everything I've ever read on BP shooting says to use pure or near pure soft lead. The clip-on wheel weights are to hard. Stick-on weights are ok if they are lead. Some are made with Zinc. I'm guessing but I think it was no more than 2% tin or just a minimal amount of Tin needed to fill out the mold. If it was impossible to beat the slug out. My guess it is likely the cause of the squib.

Several years ago I got a barrel cherry red and a few weeks later the bluing disappeared on the spot that turned red. 

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It’s not locking up, so it’s not going to be fun disassembling it. I suspect zinc, which has a higher melting point. The gassed burned off the battery in the forest fire. Well, as grandpa said, an education is expensive. 

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I would say check the cases as well. It is easy to think a charge has dropped. I use a flashlight to double check before I load.  

I once had to use a puller to take about 50 rounds apart as they were mixed and I did not notice till near the end that the measure was not working right.

After that I learned to check

karl

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Tony if you're using wheel weights you can't depend on markings stamped on the weights. I have come across both clip-ons and stick-ons with a ZN stamped on them but not always. Best way to tell is by scraping them on a cement surface like a driveway. Lead will feel like chalk, Zinc will feel like you're scraping a rock. I've also come across iron wheel weights, some were marked FE. 

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