bubbamauser Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 I may have a solution for a heat treating oven. My girlfriend moved in with a ceramics kiln. I wired up a line for it and started asking some question on how it worked. It slowly heat up to max of 2000 degrees over a period of about 10 hours you can limit the temperature with things called cones when it hits the temperature the cone is good for the cone melts turning it off. I'm thinking I could bring it up to 1800- 2000 (until its cherry)quench a receiver and then bring it back up to about 900 (I'm not sure about this one but until its purple)and let it cool any one have any opinions on if this will work. since it heats slowly it shouldn't warp anything. any opinions would be appreciated Thanks, Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 Warpage occurs during quenching. rapid cooling dontcha know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 i"ve been reading up on this heat treating subject getting different ideals on it.. looks like most mausers where made of sae 1030 steel with about 25 points of carbon//not really a steel that can be improved by heat treating,,,from what i"ve read the core of the mauser was meant to be flexable with a case harding in the wear areas..heating in an oven will cause lose of metal from scale unless it has the oxygen removed or the steel shielded ..most people us stainless steel foil to wrap steel in...some will use kasnit case harding compound from brownells and just redo the case hardness in an oven...all in all i"m just reading all i can find on this subject...this kind on work probley can be done at home if a man has the equipment to check his work with after the heat treating and get a picture of how things were changing ..a lot to do just for a few pieces but might become a sideline buisness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 I have just four words to say regarding doing this at home: Penny wise, pound foolish! Triggers, firing pins, sear, other small parts, and or maybe even ceratin receivers, most notably falling blacks, etc. made of modern normally heat treatable steels could be fine at home. As I've said countless times before and as sonic has basically restated, Mausers don't contain enough carbon to benefit from a conventional heat treatment. This topic has been discussed ad nausium. Check the search feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinman Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 I guess I am assuming that you have determined that your Mauser is softer then you think it should be by your questions. If this is the case, or that you are interested in the process of case hardening a Mauser, then read more about it. It starts off by packing the action into a cylinder with bone meal or leather or material very rich in carbon and sealed off from the outside air. Much like a pipe sealed on both ends. Heated up to the proper temperature and held there long enough to get the proper penetration of carbon to no more then .015" or there abouts(read more on it). It is then cooled and removed from the container and brought back up to the heardening temperature for the higher carbon skin and quenched. Then it is either drawn to the proper temper at a lower temperature to the hardness it is to remain at. It is a very difficult step by step procedure that can improve a very soft Mauser or can ruin it in a hurry. Hope you got a lot of spares of your own to experiment with. I don't. Tinman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamp_thing Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 Which gentleman, is what a few of us have been trying to say for some time now. It is not going to be either cost effective or in the opinion of many safe practice to try this at home. When there are those that have the experience and expertise to do this job right at a price within reason, considering the safety matters, it is best left to them. I am the first to say if you can do something yourself and save money go for it, but if you risk life and limb in the process what exactly do you save. Even if it did seem to be sucessful initially, if the receiver happens to become brittle time and repeated firing will explode it. Not worth risking your life of the life of others to save in this case. swamp_thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted November 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 Thanks, Point taken Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted November 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 I spoke to a guy at the range who sounded like he knew what he was talking about , rockwell hardness and all that, Who told me that fast heating is how it warps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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