My Claro stock for build

[mr fixit]

I've had this stock for about 25 years, just sitting and waiting.  Looks like I'm finally going to get to use it.  

 

[Dr.Hess]

I have a couple M98 stocks in storage.  Don't recall the exact details, but it was something like 2 used sporter stocks for about $100 delivered.  Not in too bad of condition.  And I have one M93/95/96 stock, new.  Have to buy those things when they come available, as when you need one, they will be out of stock.

[FC]

The butt of that is really going to look nice.

[AzRednek]

Have you dipped the stock in water?? I can only imagine how beautiful the finished wood will look. I have some fond memories of the beautiful sporter stocks I saw at 1970’s gun shows. I saw some I really wanted to buy but unfortunately the sellers wanted way to much. Just like building hot rods one can never recoup their cash investment in a sporter project. I saw some really stunning Mannlicher sporters but the odd ball calibers and price shied me away. 

[mr fixit]

On 10/11/2021 at 9:11 PM, AzRednek said:

Have you dipped the stock in water?? I can only imagine how beautiful the finished wood will look. I have some fond memories of the beautiful sporter stocks I saw at 1970’s gun shows. I saw some I really wanted to buy but unfortunately the sellers wanted way to much. Just like building hot rods one can never recoup their cash investment in a sporter project. I saw some really stunning Mannlicher sporters but the odd ball calibers and price shied me away. 

I gave it a wipe with a wet rag and it really looks good.  As my wife would say "it pops".  Cant wait to get it sanded and oiled.

Do we want to 'discuss' the various oil and other stock finishes?  Right now I'm looking a pure Tung oil.

[AzRednek]

On 10/12/2021 at 7:20 PM, mr fixit said:

 

Do we want to 'discuss' the various oil and other stock finishes?  Right now I'm looking a pure Tung oil.

I’m no expert having taken the easy route on the stocks I did. I used poly urethane, first with finger dunks then steel woofing it down a few times with the final coat sprayed on. The oil finishes by far are the most attractive although they may not be as durable as the modern poly. I recall the beautiful stocks on sporter projects I saw at early to mid 70’s gun shows. Most if not all were hand rubbed oil finishes. I’m certain the sellers likely exaggerated on the number of coats. I recall one seller claiming he steel wooded down 24 coats before the final finish. I recall seeing a pathetic mess. The seller claimed his father sprayed clear high gloss lacquer over the original finish. The lacquer was peeling away. 
 

Back in the 80’s a close friend wanted the most durable finish he could get on his Mauser 308 Norma project. The stock was an altered military with an add-on cheek piece. He got it done in real Marine grade varnish. Not the stuff on hardware store shelves saying marine grade. It was done by a San Diego boat repair and Yacht restorer. It was rock hard, couldn’t dent it with a thumbnail and felt like you could bounce steel ball bearings on it without harm. At first it looked simply ok when I first saw it but two years later it yellowed but still was rock hard.
 

Probably the most beautiful stock finish I saw was on a muzzle loader project. It was done by a jeweler to show off his skills. He had no idea what was used. He traded services with an antique furniture restorer. It almost looked like the tiger stripped stock was dipped in clear glass. The jeweler black nickeled the barrel and gold plated the brass parts including a fancy butt plate. Long one short, the jeweler was gifted the kit. Told me and a friend he didn’t like guns after serving in the Korean War but felt obligated to do something with the gift.

In the 80’s I refinished some revolver grips with what was named Linspeed Oil. 20 years later the finish started peeling away on a High Standard Double Nine. When I traded it away a few years ago in a parking lot meet up. Seeing the grips in bright sunlight I could see it yellowing. A pair of S&W grips I did with the Linspeed Oil the finish was powdering away 20 years later with a few chips. The Linspeed Oil however was great for doing small touch ups on dings and factory finishes

[inthe10ring]

Consider using minwax antique oil. You will get beautiful oil finish that is polymerized to make it more durable. 

That sure looks to be English walnut 

[mr fixit]

10 hours ago, inthe10ring said:

Consider using minwax antique oil. You will get beautiful oil finish that is polymerized to make it more durable. 

That sure looks to be English walnut 

I agree.  And my memory may be off, I think I ordered this stock in 1996.  I have another also from Richards that I am sure I asked for Claro and it has a much more redish and green tints to it.

 

[Dr.Hess]

I've used Tru-Oil in the past.  Mostly because that's what my father used.  I have my 22 and my BB gun that we redid together 50 years ago and the finishes still look good.  That was the finger dip, steel wool method.  I eventually found that spraying it on with an air brush was not only less work, but produced a much nicer looking finish, and that's how I did my big Mauser 98 target rifle.

 

The hand rubbed BLO's, etc., are a different class entirely.  I think I'm too much a "Bubba." But then, we don't frown on Bubba on this web site.

 

[Horsefly]

Guess I’ll be checking out air brushes today. 

[Dr.Hess]

I have several, including big name brands.  Just the inexpensive Harbor Freight one is fine for something like this.  You really want to hold out for a "double action" air brush.  It works more like a real paint gun.  You can control the amount of air and the amount of paint from the trigger mechanism.  Probably overkill for painting a stock, but that's the kind I prefer.

 

This:

https://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

is a nice double action brush.  A clone an expensive design, I would say. 

 

This one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html

is a nice single action brush, a clone of an expensive single action design.

[Horsefly]

Great info Dr. I wouldn’t had a clue what I needed. Thanks. 

[mr fixit]

23 hours ago, Dr.Hess said:

The hand rubbed BLO's, etc., are a different class entirely.  I think I'm too much a "Bubba." But then, we don't frown on Bubba on this web site.

 

I have very mixed feelings about doing a true "oil finish" on this stock.  On one hand, if done correctly and well they really are (to me at least) the most beautiful finish for nice wood.  On the other hand there is so much conflicting information on them.  I have heard that a real oil finish such as BLO or Tung oil isn't moisture resistant, and will get tacky in heat.  Part of the conflicting information is that some recommend 100% Tung oil, and many are using a 'tung oil finish' such as Formby's or other brands that may not have much Tung oil in it at all.

I have used Tru Oil on a stock in the past, right now I cant remember which one but probably a milsurp I cleaned up.  It's not a bad finish, but i'm not sure it's one I want on this rifle.  What I'm after is the satin look of a nice oil finish. I of course want moisture resistance and all the other positive things we all want from a nice stock.

So, I'm doing a li'l research project.  I have a nice piece of Walnut, about 10x8x1/2, that I am testing the Tung oil on.  I have 100% Tung oil (not polymerized) from Rockler. I started with the Walnut sanded, and mixed the Tung oil and Mineral Spirits 50/50 and flooded one side of the board. Did the basic let it soak in for about 20 min then wipe off. I gave it about 5 days and did that again.  Then I added more Tung oil bringing the blend to about 75% oil 25% mineral spirits.  I have one coat of that on so far. I plan to do one more coat of that this coming weekend, and then go to 100% Tung oil for the next several coats.  I'm sanding with 400grit before applying each new coat.  My plan is to do maybe 5-10 coats based on how it looks then stop.  At that point I intend to take the board over to the saw and rip it in half to see how far the finish penetrates.  I also plan to test to see what moisture does to it and heat.  

My plan may not tell me much of anything.  But, then again, it might.

 

[Dr.Hess]

Over in MilSurp world, "they say" to treat a stock with BLO it is:  Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year after that.  I have a Spanish 1916 that was practically black with age and oil.  I steamed out most of the old stuff with an iron and wet rag and it was looking fairly decent, for a total POS, then added one coat of BLO and it went right back to where it started, although with less dents.

 

For a satin finish that's durable and water proof, you might try one of the satin urethane stains from Lowe's, if you don't like how the Tung Oil turns out.

[Downwindtracker2]

Pure tung oil take a long time to dry. It a good finish for things that come in contact with food. Polymerized Tung Oil had driers in it, works much better and quicker.  Here is what I do:

When I tung oil finished . I used Lee Valley's Polymerized Tung Oil. It has driers in it. I made up sanding blocks out of 2x4 on edge with 1/4 foam backing. It was a gasket material from work. I stapled strips of wet dry on them. I even got fancy and routered finger slots.I sand to 220 grit dry then I started at 320 grit wet sanding . I would wipe across grain. I continued each night until I got a " finish ", About two or three evenings . I used the same grit sanding block, the wet oil seemed to renew the block. I would then move on to the next grit down 400.I worked my way down to 1000 grit,or more it was so easy. It might have taken half an hour each night, likely less time. In a couple of weeks I got truly great finishes . When you are sitting on a clearcut and not seeing any deer ,you can always admire the walnut. Even ho-hum factory wood looks great. I had to use analine dye on that one, the walnut they used was the colour of spruce. I guess Winchester got a deal.

The method I picked off the net, the choice of tung oil from furniture experience.