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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Turk Bolt Saga......pics


usmc0332

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My father and I got this bolt bent. We spent a lot more time on it than expected, 4 hours including cooling and BS time. We had pits, and we had to rebend to clear scope and stock. We had quite a time of it, but I HOPE we got it to where it will work adequately. I just hope it doesn't shatter like glass at the first shot. Here are some pics.

 

First I cut it with 3 dremel wheels, just like Steve Wagner said it would take.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt1.jpg

 

Then I put it into my 1" water immersion pipe. I shimmed it up with a 16 penny nail.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt2.jpg

 

Then we bent it.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt3.jpg

 

Then we gas welded it.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...mauserbolt4.jpg

 

Then we rebent it to clear scope and stock.. Then we rewelded it to get rid of the pits i found when grinding. I think we got it now. Now I have to clean it up a bunch more, whittle on the stock, and probably take a bit off of the receiver. Quite a project. The water immersion seemed to work, tho at times it sucked away too much heat. At last we heated up the cocking cam and quenched it with water. Geez I hope this works.

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Great job.

 

But just my 2 cents: if you are that close to having removed the handle why not go all the way and weld on a longer handle that provides good leverage? These end up fairly short. Another suggestion if you wanna keep things cheap is cut off the handle, turn it 180 degrees and weld back on. this gives you about 3/8" additional length for free.

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I was copying most of the steps on the Wagner site for the cut/forged method. For what it took I think I would weld on a new handle next time. A bit more length would be nice. I live and I learn. The pipe was filled with water. This is lightweight fire sprinkler pipe. If I put the cap on tight it also clamped down on the squared remnants of the bolt. This was due to the taper of the pipe threads. I had wanted to use schedule 40 pipe for this, but Allied XL pipe actually worked better, otherwise I would have had to thin the pipe at the slot to get the bolt to stick out far enough. Thanks for the words of encouragement, and esp the suggestions. I am winging-it on this project. I would not ever have dreamt of doing these types of things, were it not for forums like this, and people like you to help.

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I live and I learn

 

Good attitude and nice work. After this one you'll realize how much better and faster you can do it next time. This is how the addiction takes hold. Some addictions are healthy smile.gif .

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Guest Guest_MorgansBoss_*

"My father and I got this bolt bent. We spent a lot more time on it than expected, 4 hours including cooling and BS time. "

 

I like that. Probably four of the best hours you've spent this week! My own grown son stopped by last week for the first time in ages. The women got to know eachother a little better while he and I went out to the shop and jewled his rifle bolt. What a great excuse for "family time" in our hurried lives. Don't underestimate these experiences, one day all too soon dad wont be there to BS with, cherish the time together - whatever the reason.

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Having always been one to try and make a tool for the job, this post is indeed interesting to me. I find that making the tool is often as much or more fun than the project it was intended for. Your creativity here has given me a new thought for making a bolt jig/cooling tool. I wonder if one could fill the tube with heat sink compound instead of water? Great idea and great job as well. Keep up the good work.

swamp_thing

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I wonder if one could fill the tube with heat sink compound instead of water? Great idea and great job as well. Keep up the good work.

 

 

It should work great, I always have to add a little extra paste to the areas that get the most heat. This fixture might just help hold the extra paste needed.

 

Good idea, thanks.

 

fritz

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Make a treaded plug that goes in the rear of the bolt. Have it D&T'd for a standard male hose fitting. Clamp a length of inner tube or the like just behind the rear vent hole and you have your drain tube. You can run an endless supply of cool water trough it.

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Now that I have the bolt pretty much finished, I am glad I did it the way I did. I wasn't so sure(nervous) about my methods. Now I have a slot in the stock for it, and it looks good. I am laid off for now, so I put about 8 hours into this project yesterday. I thinned the forend and re-refinished the whole stock. I added some red mahogany stain to the BLO. I like the way it came out. I also cleaned up a lot of the metalwork. I lost the pin that holds the plunger for the floorplate when it suddenly freed and came out. Lost in my garage somewhere. I had to drive a screwdriver between the mag box and the floorplate to get it off. This was after removing the plunger and spring! I finally got it. This is FUN. I will be cold bluing this one, as I don't have an airbrush, and the new oven is off limits.

 

http://photobucket.com/albums/a20/usmc0332...t=TurkBolt1.jpg

 

Pic of bolt, polished but not blued

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