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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

build on 93 from sarco


rjhans53

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So this has started out to be how cheap can I put a decent shooting gun together, Now I'm not counting the scope mount (would had to buy that for anything, same with the scope and rings)  I guess back when I was messing with mausers I bought 2 of the short 6.5 x 55 carbine barrels and I still had one laying around.  So a $100  93 action from sarco and I started.  I bought a military stock from numrch for $45 and as stated I had the barrel.  I have a cheat where I drill the bolt and use a 1/4 =20 bolt for the turn down handle, but a brand new bit wouldn't even scratch it so having the bending jig, (never having any success making a turn down bolt I figured I'd give it another go.  Ended up getting a torch set that uses yellow MAP/ and red ox.  I managed to get one done and it's almost really decent.  1 red bottle per bolt at 11 bucks a bottle.   the stock was worked a bit and bedded.  The barrel was a hair long (by 2 layers of maskiing tape) so I bought lapping compoud and put a bit between the action and barrel and worked it back and forth for 2-3 hours, chamber is now tight.  Went to the range today and at 50 (max for the range) both the last 2 groups were under .5 with 2 touching and the other off a bit.

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On 1/30/2022 at 7:22 PM, Dr.Hess said:

$329 for Shilens.  Certainly a good barrel, but yeah, pricey.  Not sure what a rifle costs at Walmart these days, but $329 would be a significant fraction of that.

Years ago when somebody would buy a single rifle. It was intended to last a lifetime. The consumer was more concerned about quality. Today it seems there is not many one rifle owners. They, myself included have more than one. Separate rifles for varmints, deer, elk, pigs etc. Then there are fun guns like AR’s, 22’s or lever actions. I guess owning multiple rifles we are more conscious of price and willing to live with plastic stocks and without iron sights. I have two older bolt actions from the 60’s I got cheap. One is a Sears Model 50 which is a FN Mauser with a chrome lined barrel. The other a JC Pennys Foremost which is really a Parker Hale Mauser. Both are 30/06 and very accurate. I just can’t guess what they might cost today with walnut stocks and adjustable iron sights. 

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On 1/31/2022 at 11:51 PM, AzRednek said:

One is a Sears Model 50 which is a FN Mauser with a chrome lined barrel. The other a JC Pennys Foremost which is really a Parker Hale Mauser. Both are 30/06 and very accurate. I just can’t guess what they might cost today with walnut stocks and adjustable iron sights. 

I think about my rifles like this when I see guys in the big-game hunting forums fawning over Highland Stalker rifles in “.275 Rigby” that sell for $15,000. I paid one-one hundredth of that for my first Oviedo Mauser, put a Lyman aperture sight on it, refinished the wood & metal, and took it hunting. As Dr Hess says, the barrels on these can be hit or miss (literally) but so far I’ve been lucky. 

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6 hours ago, rjhans53 said:

I have a few "good rifles Sakos) that my mauser builds will never be as smooth and only about 50% of them will shoot as accurate but there is something about "I made it that that pleases me

That’s something the hard core mil-surp collectors just can’t see. I have no regrets despite the loss in value of any i sporterized. One rifle I’m glad I didn’t, an all matching numbers German made 09 Argie sniper rifle. I later got a straight across trade for it getting a 1950’s M-1 Garand for it. It was tempting as the action was silky smooth, felt like it had trigger work and it had a factory turned down bolt handle. At the time in the mid 90’s SARCO and Numrich were selling the turret scope mount set for $550.00. The mounts were the same as used on early WW2 German K98 sniper models. The price of the original mounts did come crashing down after SARCO connected with somebody making forced match number reproductions. I wound up sporting a Czeck BRUNO instead. The BRNO’s exterior looking near mint had a dark bore and the accuracy was a click or two below mediocre shooting Turk ammo. 
 

I’m now sitting on two complete Mauser actions. A FN and a new old stock in the white Santa Barbra Mag action. I’m now to old and crippled up to do any hunting and have been trying to get trade offers for Smith & Wesson revolvers. I was going to build the FN into a 270 or 06 for my grandson but it went by the wayside after discovering he is a lefty. 

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I’m a lefty and prefer RH bolt guns. I have a Ranger Arms .270 and Weatherby 7Mag. In LH actions but my go-to rifle is a Husqvarna .308 I’ve had  over 40 years. The shortage of actions and barrels forced me to finish projects I’ve been setting on for years. The collectors can kiss my goat-smelling arse if shaming me for sporterizing a Mauser that may have shot at my Grandpas and uncles. Cool to give weapons of war a new purpose. 

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Horsefly... shame you aint closer to me geographically.. I am becoming increasingly discouraged with this Turk K.Kale... mostly, I do not need/desire anything more powerful than 308...and I already have a very nice one!! My hope is the reamer Co-Op gets going again, and I can set the headspace on that 8mm barrel... the 8X57 may suit me as well as the 35 Remington!!!!  Maybe

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11 hours ago, rjhans53 said:

I used a 8 x 57 1 year.  If your going to try to use the 150's and push them, don't they come apart on impact and make a mess.  The 170s and the barnes 160 ( I couldn't get them to shoot) are a better bullet

I guess I don't know... I shoot almost exclusively Cast!!!

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3 minutes ago, Racepres said:

I guess I don't know... I shoot almost exclusively Cast!!!

Try powder coating them.  That's what I do now.  You can push them to jacked bullet velocities.  I have a thread here on how I do it if you're interested.  Only takes a coffee can, some powder, plastic BB's, toaster oven and non-stick aluminum foil.

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  • 1 year later...
9 hours ago, tanglewood16137 said:

I have the 8mm mauser reamer and gauges sitting here ready to go if you still want to build one

Oh...Maybe I take you Up on that.. But... This Particular K.Kale came to me already "worked over" I fear it may have had the Shoulders (of the Action) both pushed back...Maybe too far.. the Extractors (some of them) run right into the rear of the barrel... what I my try to do is get a rem 700 bbl, and Not take all of the "ring" off.

Frustrating darn thing...I should Off it!!!

I really Appreciate that Offer...

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1 hour ago, Racepres said:

Oh...Maybe I take you Up on that.. But... This Particular K.Kale came to me already "worked over" I fear it may have had the Shoulders (of the Action) both pushed back...Maybe too far.. the Extractors (some of them) run right into the rear of the barrel... what I my try to do is get a rem 700 bbl, and Not take all of the "ring" off.

Frustrating darn thing...I should Off it!!!

I really Appreciate that Offer...

Take a look at your bolt and extractor where it fits into the slot it front. Many are worn excessively resulting in the extractor sliding too far forward.  It will hit the barrel upon closing and slide rearward 

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9 hours ago, inthe10ring said:

Take a look at your bolt and extractor where it fits into the slot it front. Many are worn excessively resulting in the extractor sliding too far forward.  It will hit the barrel upon closing and slide rearward 

Yes...BTDT...Nope... the barrel is just too far "in" screws in too darn far.. Frustrating... but, again probably an M48 or 24/47 barrel could be an answer... but, if gonna cut threads anyway... a Rem 700 bbl will probably easily be made to work properly.. Another day...

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11 hours ago, inthe10ring said:

I've never seen the correct bolt protrude past the c-ring.

To fit the barrel,  it's torqued to the c-ring, so I'd look in the direction of a different bolt. Both the 24/47 & m48 barrels are safty breached and require a bolt without the nub extension 

Right... but... some nimrod, may have moved the front of the C ring Back...for what reasoon??? IDK

All I know is that No small ring barrel here, including 2 that came off of other K.Kales, will allow any bolt on the farm to close, properly....the extractors and sometimes the bolt itself,  Hit the Barrel...some more than others.. the Bolt that came with this action (gun show) is closest, as only the extractor "drags"

During experimentation, I have found that leaving some 8-10 thousanths, (by Menmory, might be different) protrusion on a Rem 700 barrel would put everythin where it belongs.

ie moving the c ring forward slightly... Odd? What??

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