youngtrout Posted January 1, 2006 Report Share Posted January 1, 2006 Hello, I'm about to take the plunge and try to rust blue a rifle. I have read all I can, and I think I have the process down. I was wondering what people do with parts like the triggerguard and such. Do you take the guard down completely, ( I am bluing a mark X, hinged guard) Also the reciever, should the lugs be protected, how about the threads??? I will blue the barrel separately, is laquereing the barrel the best method?? Any tips would be greatly appriciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the imput! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Good questions Trout! I just got my bottle of solution and have been wondering the same things.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwims Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Rust Bluing is a time consuming but simple process. If you can cold blue, you can rust blue. disassemble your rifle as complete as possible. Degrease your parts completely. I use acetone but there are many others that probably work just as well. The only areas that will blue are the areas you coat with your chemical. I have blued three rifles with rust blue with excellent results. The only deviation I make from the instructions is in carding, I use a terry cloth towel instead if the wire carding wheel. Enjoy the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladymere Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 What are you wanting to protect the receiver lugs, threads and barrel from? Vlad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngtrout Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 vlad, or anyone else. I guess I was wanting to protect the lugs because they might be difficult to card after bluing, as for the barrel I just want to protect the bore. As for the barrel, there has been talk about putting laquer in the bore, I would like to avoid this, I was just going to be careful with the application, but would the boil off put some of the solution in the bore to cause rusting? My plan was after boil off to run a dry patch throught the bore. As for the action, yes I would love to have everything blued, for protection but worry about getting everything carded properly, there are a lot of hard spots to card sucessfully. As for the triggerguard, I was wondering if most take apart a hinged triggerguard before bluing. I read the saved post and feel comfortable with the process, but if anyone can help out with the nuts and bolts I would appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 vlad, or anyone else. I guess I was wanting to protect the lugs because they might be difficult to card after bluing, as for the barrel I just want to protect the bore. Just don't put any solution on the lugs or anywhere else you don't want blue. As for the barrel, there has been talk about putting laquer in the bore, I would like to avoid this, I was just going to be careful with the application, but would the boil off put some of the solution in the bore to cause rusting? My plan was after boil off to run a dry patch throught the bore. laquer will protect the bore, about the only practical way I know. You are right that the boil off is what disperses the solution to those places you don;t apply solution to. As for the action, yes I would love to have everything blued, for protection but worry about getting everything carded properly, there are a lot of hard spots to card sucessfully. Use degreased steel wool, get imaginative. As for the triggerguard, I was wondering if most take apart a hinged triggerguard before bluing. If you want it to look good, take it apart first! I read the saved post and feel comfortable with the process, but if anyone can help out with the nuts and bolts I would appreciate it. 9324[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauser98 Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 I recently finished my second rust bluing job so I am far from been an expert. I did, however, learn a lot of does and don'ts. To protect the interior of the barrel I applied a coating of lacquer that I got from a hobby store. I degreased the barrel then ran a lacquer-soaked patch through the bore. After the job was complete, I ran a toluol-soaked brush/patch through the chamber/bore. It worked fine. I blued everything except small pins and springs. I even did the rings, bases and screw heads. I blued the entire bolt including the lugs. The best purchase I made was the carding wheel from Brownells. I used degreased steel wool on the first job and the wheel(degreased) on the second. No comparison-the wheel was much easier and quicker and it got into corners better. My damp-box is a large cardboard box with a slow-cooker full of water and turned to high. I'll be building a proper box soon but the cardboard box worked great. Humidity was 60-70% and temperature was 90-110 F. My boiling tray on the first was a length of rain gutter with the ends sealed with high temp silicon. Boiling wqs done on the stove top in my camper. For my second effort, I had a friend cut one side out of a piece of 3" square tubing and weld up the ends. I used our electric kitchen range with the tray kitty-corner over the large elements. Pay attention to degreasing and wear rubber gloves at all times. If in doubt, change gloves and wipe down the parts with acetone between applications. I am soooooo happy with this method of bluing. I have got 3-4 other rifles to do and it nice to know I won't have to pay someone else to do the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladymere Posted January 3, 2006 Report Share Posted January 3, 2006 When applying the rust solution apply it only to the exterior of the receiver and barrel. Do not apply the rust solution to the interior surfaces of the receiver, only blue what shows. As for the barrel,I don't believe anything needs to be done. Apply rust solution to the exterior only. You can do the threads and the crown but don't get any down the bore. I don't bother with a hot box, damp box, etc. Seems to be enough humidity in the air, winter or summer in NC. After boiling the barrel blow compressed air through it if available. Then run patches through until dry. As hot as the barrel is after coming out of the boiling water it will dry very quickly. The barrel bore should be unaffected by repeated boiling and drying. Vlad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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