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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Sparky shoots!


Doble Troble

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Here are some five shot groups at 50 yds that Sparky is responsible for. All are with 60 gr of FFFG except for the lower left which is with 33 gr FFFG and 33 gr Pyrodex RS on top. Loads were with 0.440 balls and 0.015 Ox Yoke lubed patches.

 

I had to cover the target with the front blade for these groups which isn't my favorite, so I've taken about 0.05 off the front and am hoping I'm closer to a 6 o'clock which is important with aging eyes and old-fashioned sights.

 

I made the front blade out of some 01 steel I had that was about the right width. Somehow by soldering it on the base it became glass hard and is unfileable. Another job for Mr. Dremel.

 

The 60 gr targets were the first that Sparky shot. The upper right was the last - 4 holes - the barrel fouled and I could load it but couldn't hit anything after about 15 rounds. I'd been swabbing with a dry patch that became more and more difficult between each shot. Also, Sparky wasn't living up to his name. The flint had to be perfect to ignite the FFFFG in the pan. Was the frizzen too soft? This was supposedly a "good" Chambers Siler lock that should have been right. Never-the-less, being a Bubba, I decided to mess with it.

 

I took the frizzen off, heated to non-magnetic with an OA torch heavy on the O to add carbon, and dropped it in a bucket of water. When re-installed it sparked much better and on my second outing I had no pan ignition failures, but did have a couple "flashes in the pan". I think that the flashes were attributable to a new swabbing method using one water-soaked and squeezed patch followed by two dry ones. I did this for a while after every shot. I've since figured-out that I can get five accurate shots of between wet swabbings, and fouling is kept at bay without flashes in the pan.

 

I've spent two entire afternoons very happily shooting this one rifle. It's not fast, but for reasons I can't explain is very satisfying.

 

I've adjusted the sights and hope that on the next outing I'll be about right-on with a 6 O'clock hold at 50 yds.

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Thanks guys.

 

This rifle is SO fun to shoot. Just enough noise and recoil to let you know you're shooting a rifle, and lots of dramatic smoke and stinky sulfur to top it off.

 

I've adusted the sights. The right target is at 50 yds. Its just about where I want it. This is with 33 gr FFFg + 33 gr Pyrodex P (because I have 5 lb - but it seems to foul less). The left target is at 100 yds. Things open up quite a bit. This may have something to do with a bad combo of old eyes and sights, but I think Sparky is about done at 100 yds. You can almost see the bullets falling into the target at this range. The holes in the backboard seem about 20* and the holes in the target aren't as "crisp" as at 50 yds. I tried a few shots at a paper plate at 100 using 70 gr and I think this may tighten it up a bit. I also tried 75 gr and things clearly opened up. Next outing I'll put a 70 gr charge through its paces. Not sure when that will be though. The holidays are OVER. It sure was fun, but now its time to get some work done.

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Congrats DT! That's a fine rifle and so easy to look at.I've never owned a flintlock,but have 2 percushion rifles and 2 cap and ball pistols,but think there may be one in the future.I'm needing,wanting a .32 or .36 cal. squirrel gun,and would really like to find an old T/C Cherokee that needs re-doing.We have some Govt. land here in North Texas that is open to hunting,but shotgun,bow,and muzzleloader only.The place is alive with squirrels and rabbits,and from now to spring would be a good place to be at sunup setting under a cottonwood den tree.Jerry

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MMMM...squirrel. You go Horsefly. It sounds like you have a great muzzleloading opportunity. I put this one together specifically to get me out of a tree stand and back to stalking the way deer hunting should be done. Its legal to shoot a muzzleloader on the ground. A centerfire rifle requires 8 ft elevation out here. Its flat enough that I'm pretty-much supportive of that rule.

 

I have cap and ball pistols which are also fun, but have never tried a percussion rifle. I can highly recommend the flintlock for fiddling fun factor. You really have to figure-out how to make it spark. I think all of us have a penchant for fiddling - and a flinter really scrathes that itch. Sparky's reliable now, and I'm really hooked.

 

If you pick one up please post about it. The learning curve is steep, long and most importantly, fun.

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Did I read right- you put pyrodex over black powder?

Your rifle is more accurate than mine. I'm frustrated over the poor accuracy. I don't think it is flinching.

That's a lot of powder for a .36 cal. I have a .50. I found that going higher than 70 grains 2F made only a 100 fps difference.

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FC,

 

Yes I've been using half-and-half FFFg first and Pyrodex P (not RS) on top.

 

Hogdon recommends using BP under Pyrodex or 777 in flintlocks. I adopted the half and half because all I have is a pistol measure that isn't big enough, so I thought I might as well use up the Pyrodex I have on hand since I have to measure twice anyway. The upside is that it fouls less. I don't know if it improves accuracy or not.

 

Sparky is 45 cal. It looks like somewhere between 65 and 70 gr of half-and-half is going to be "the" load. This is with .440 balls and 45-50 cal 0.015 pre-wonderlubed patches. I can just start the balls with my thumb without trimming the patches. With wet swabbing every five shots it loads easy and seems to be pretty accurate - but only at 50 yds. What range are you shooting at? Things really go downhill for me at 100.

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50-75 yards. I keep experimenting periodically with other loads and ball sizes. I have mostly real tight balls, then I tried smaller balls, then I tried sabots. I just bought a loader that will prevent damaging the tip of the sabots. It should be more accurate!

 

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Tony,I would think your flintlock would have a 1-66 twist barrel,and if so,your sabots may not do so good.It usually takes a 1-in-48 twist to stabilize a conical bullet.I tried sabots and TC Hunter .50 cal.s in a 1-66 twist,and was afraid it would come back and hit me.Went back to round balls,and was back on dead center.I've killed(a) deer with round balls,and 3 with conicals,and each one was a dead as the other.You've got higher velocity and better accuracy with round balls,but more knock down,some claim,with conicals.Mini-balls were invented for faster loading during the Civil War,but snipers continued using round balls.I enjoy shooting patched round balls out of my Euro Arms Kentucky and my Thompson Renegade too,but I hunt with T/C hunter .54 cal. pre-lubed bullets.I have a Traditions .50 cal. in-line,and after 3 years,still haven't fired a shot out of it.No reason why,I just seem drawn to my side locks.I reckon you knew all this junk,but I just wanted you to be ready if you couldn't hit the target.I hope you have good results.Jerry

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I just re-read where you've already tried sabots and are hoping they'll be More accurate with the new ramrod,so I guess your on to something.I need to get back into frontloaders again.Jerry

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