bapayton Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 Hello Everyone! These are my first "real" project receivers (hopefully the pictures show up). They're not in the greatest of shape but I've been working on them and have made some progress. The receivers were cheap enough $10 each for the Turk 03's and $15 for the K.Kale. They don't have bolts though so that will be an extra expense but I'm not exactly in a hurry anyhow. Outside of the cosmetics they seem fine. There is no noticeable twisting and the locking lug area looks perfect. I put them in a mandrel and faced off the front receiver ring. They are all accurate to within .001 off the threads. Now I just hope the threads were cut somewhat accurately. At this point I need to upgrade my files and get some stones. The problem is I don't know what kind of stones to get. I've read about people using them but nobody seems to go into much detail on what type is best for a specific application. What I want to do is finish off the receivers after filing with a nice smooth surface that's good enough for duracoat application. I also want to polish out the roughness in the bolt raceways so if anyone has ideas for that area I'd really appreciate it. The next question I have is about heat treating. I don't want to get into the debate about whether the Turks are hard enough but what I would like to know is if anyone ever found a place to re-heat treat receivers? I found this place on the web (http://www.mayfoundry.com/heat.htm) and some references to them treating guns but haven't emailed them yet to find out. If they are cheap enough I might send all 3 off and have them treated. I remember from the old forum someone mentioned a sort of "group buy" heat treat but don't think anything became of it. Guess that's all my questions for now. Take care, Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 this is what was recommended to me by z1R for a stone to do the receiver with... Norton Sharpening Stones Shape: Rectangle Grit Grade: Coarse/Fine Width: 2 Length: 8 Thickness: 1 Material: Aluminum Oxide Manufacturer Part Number 61463685565 $24.07 From..... MSC Direct as far as stones for internal raceway stuff, i always thought those sandpaper mandrels that midway/brownells sells were the trick. and there has been recent talk about companies that heat treat. i cant remember off the top of my head, but if you look back a page or two, you'd probably find it. blanchards, maybe? seems to come to mind.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 here you go....... Blanchard Metals Processing Co. 1115 Pioneer Rd. Salt Lake City, UT 84104 Phone: 801-972-5590 Fax: 801-972-6346. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Maybe I am BUBBA, but I just used sandpaper and my dremel in the tight corners, and had very good results. I sanded to 600 grit. What would be the advantage of using a stone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 What would be the advantage of using a stone? Stones help to keep things square. Sandpaper will often impart a wavey finish or more importantly it will round things that were intended to be straight. A little expeiment. Get a piece of flat stock and drill a hle through it. Polish one side with sandpaper. Even if you use a hard backing it will round the edges of the hole. Now, flip it over and stone it. The edges of the hole will be crisp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 PIcture of J Belk draw filing a receiver Another picture of the same Finished shape with engraved bolt handle J. Belk aka Jack Belk is a great gunsmith. He makes Randy Ketchum jealous. Jack sends his work out for engraving. He works for rich customers. Personally, I could care less about appearance, every gun is just an engineering project. But Randy is way ahead of me in pesonal wildcat development, 50BMG construction, 20mm build, etc. So I have to show some respect for a guy like Jack that works on gun apearance, and not make fun of him for his sissy values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bapayton Posted March 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 I've seen Jack's site before. I don't know anything about his "values" but he does incredible work. I'm shure it helps a lot having all the right tools, especially a surface grider. I've been looking for a grinder locally but they seem to be mostly in the Northeast and not so much here in North Texas. I think having a surface grider would make things so much easier not to mention accurate. PIcture of J Belk draw filing a receiver Another picture of the same Finished shape with engraved bolt handle J. Belk aka Jack Belk is a great gunsmith. He makes Randy Ketchum jealous. Jack sends his work out for engraving. He works for rich customers. Personally, I could care less about appearance, every gun is just an engineering project. But Randy is way ahead of me in pesonal wildcat development, 50BMG construction, 20mm build, etc. So I have to show some respect for a guy like Jack that works on gun apearance, and not make fun of him for his sissy values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Drawfiling the receiver is only a means to remove material that in the end still needs to be polished. Same goes for surface grinding. While a surface grinder is a super machine you can get by with a mill. I do all my "surface grinding" in my mill and then stone it. Is it the best way? Maybe not but it's a heck of a lot more accurate then sand paper, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bapayton Posted March 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 How do you set it up in the mill? Do you use any sort of clamp/fixture to hold the receiver in place? I've never used a mill myself so excuse my ignorance. I understand their concept but how do you make it work effectively for you? Thanks for all the info so far! Drawfiling the receiver is only a means to remove material that in the end still needs to be polished. Same goes for surface grinding. While a surface grinder is a super machine you can get by with a mill. I do all my "surface grinding" in my mill and then stone it. Is it the best way? Maybe not but it's a heck of a lot more accurate then sand paper, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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