Blueing Options

[ken98k]

I'm almost ready to blue my current project (7X57 k-kale) and would like to hear some of your opinions.

Hot blueing is the best as I understand it but, but too expensive around here. I called a couple gun shops and almost crapped my knickers when they said $300 !!

I've been told the next best is

1. rust blueing,

2. hot water blueing with Dicropan IM or Belgan Blue

3. cold blue

 

I'm leaning towards the Dicropan IM but would like to have some experienced input.

Kenny

[roscoedoh]

I read some pretty good feedback about these guys:

 

http://www.gunblue.homestead.com/hot.html

 

$300 is high. The local smith I have dealt with was getting $135 for a high gloss blue last time I did business with him. I would keep shopping around.

 

 

[z1r]

If you get this black iron tank from Brownells and use a turkey fryer to power it you can Rust blue easily. It is the most durable finish and, unless you like glossy blue, is the best looking. Email or PM me for the solutions to use.

[680guy]

My first project I cold blued. It looked fine when I finished but soon realized it wore off easily and was prone to rust when the humidity rose. Since then I've used DICHROPAN with good results. The finish is tough, and doesn't rust like the cold blue. My only complaint is my barrels and floor plates can have light streaking. I've since bought a bottle of Pilkingtons Rust Blue I've yet to try, but I've read posts here a while back I'ts a good product. You will need a tank. I had a welder friend make me two for less than one would cost from Brownells.

[Limpid Lizard]

I have not used the feller, as I have my own hot blue set up, but Mel Doyle in St. Maries ID is supposed to do a great job. You strip, polish and mail to him. He blues and returns. $35.00 + shipping the last I saw advertised. Some of the fairly expensive shops ship to Mel. LL

[Batray]

I had Mel do an Enfield a while back.He did a very nice job.He has an ad in the Shotgun News.

 

[Doble Troble]

If you feel adventurous you could try your hand at rust bluing. There isn't any better finish (IMO). It takes time (hands on very little, but waiting for rust and multiple passes = usually a couple of weeks from start to finish for me, probably 30 min hands-on time per day), but the basics are simple, but perfection can be challenging. It's a perfect thing for the do-it-yourselfer to obsess over.

 

And if it doesn't pan-out you can always polish it back up and send it for a hot blue.

[Thor]

Doble Troble, is the process about the same as Oxpho Blue? Except for the time process?

[z1r]

Thor, Depends on the amount of time you have. If you have a weekend off, you can slow rust blue in two days with the right amount of humidity. Less humididty = more time. They don't call it slow for nuthin. When all the planets are aligned, I can get six 6 hour coats on in a weekend. 6 has always been enough but I could squeeze in a seventh if needed in that same 48 hrs. Of course, this is when I use my cabinet. Without it, it is a slower process and one I can only do when it rains due to the low relative humidity in SoCal.

 

You can always switch to an express formula and do it in a day.

[Sailormilan2]

There is a guy on eBay that regularly advertises bluing. Name "hotbluer". I've used it him before. Price from $50 to $75(if he polishes). I am trying to get his email addy for you now.

 

 

Edited

 

Got it now.

Mark

gunbluer@lynchburg.net

434-941-4202

[Thor]

z1r, that's the way I do stocks, handrub a coat every couple of hours and can do 6 coats in a day. As previous coat is still soft, bubbles and errors can be worked out and folowing coats bond to previous coats, building as you go. Otherwise you have to sand a hardened layer to give next layer something to bite to.

 

But bluing is a different mentality altogether. My question, is it similar to Oxphoblue? Once metal is clean, apply Oxpho, burnish (or card), then apply again, burnish, etc. Of course, with Oxphoblue, you can continue the process without delay.

 

What is the process of rust blue? Is it similar except for the delay? I'm not worried about time, just want a better job than I'm getting, and not set for hot blue. Some of the spray ons call for baking afterward. Don't have a big enough oven for that.

 

[Doble Troble]

Thor,

 

Here's a link to the archives that might point you in the right direction.

 

I'm not as anal about avoiding oil as is described in the link. The solution that I use contains detergent that keeps rust at bay. I degrease first in hot, soapy water, then in hot water with a few grams of lye dissolved, and finally with brake cleaner. I try to avoid oil after that, and try not to touch anything but nothing more.

 

Rust bluing is a very simple process. You essentially produce a controlled rust surface. This provides rust protection, and looks really nice, but is more jet-black than blue. When well done it's gorgeous.

 

The controlled rusting is produced by applying an acidic solution that contains iron. With proper humidity a very fine, fox-red surface rust will form. After the rust is formed you subject it to boiling or steaming water. This converts the red-iron to a black form (sorry that I don't remember my iron chemistry well-enough to tell you the valence - but its black, and that's what matters). After turning the rust black you remove most of it with steel wool (my favorite) or a wire brush (more traditional). You want to remove every bit that isn't completely bound to the part. If you don't it'll show-up later as a high spot. The result of the first pass is disappointing and usually just a light grey and you'll probably think that you're wasting your time. If you persevere for 3 -10 passes you will produce a deep and durable black finish.

 

The Gungoddess solution that is comercially avialable seems to be highly recommended, although I've always used my own blend (but I have unusual ability to obtain chemicals so its easy and cheap for me).