911rat Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I understand the whole concept about not notching a bolt into a receiver too deep. Z1R said in a previous post to make sure the bolt has "no forward movement." Does this mean that I should cut a tight notch that makes it impossible for the bolt to move forward at all? Or just minimize any forward movement? From what I've been able to tell, the firing pin spring holds the lugs against their recesses but I suppose when the gun is fired the bolt would jump forward a bit. I noticed that even straight unforged bolts move forward just a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_z1r_* Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I understand the whole concept about not notching a bolt into a receiver too deep. Z1R said in a previous post to make sure the bolt has "no forward movement." Does this mean that I should cut a tight notch that makes it impossible for the bolt to move forward at all? Or just minimize any forward movement? From what I've been able to tell, the firing pin spring holds the lugs against their recesses but I suppose when the gun is fired the bolt would jump forward a bit. I noticed that even straight unforged bolts move forward just a bit. No, it means when you cut the notch and close the bolt make sure you don't see the bolt moving forward. If you do, what is happening is that the bolt root is resting on the notch and the lugs aren't making contact. All your truing work is for naught in that case. You want enough clearance so the isn;t interfering with the lug operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911rat Posted June 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 No, it means when you cut the notch and close the bolt make sure you don't see the bolt moving forward. If you do, what is happening is that the bolt root is resting on the notch and the lugs aren't making contact. All your truing work is for naught in that case. You want enough clearance so the isn;t interfering with the lug operation. Ahhh. In other words, the bolt should be inleted closly with the lugs making contact with the recesses and a small amount of clearence in the notch for the bolt handle. Thanks Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 The notch can be cut as loosely as you want provided 1) it does not allow the bolt to over rotate (that whole TDC issue). 2) that it does not inhibit the rearward tarvel of the bolt such that it prohibits proper locking lug contact. That said, IMHO, a tighter fit gives the appearance of first rate workmanship. So yes, you got it right now. Pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911rat Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Best I could do for pics at this time. It works just as it should. The bolt closes at TDC and seats against the bolt lugs. Just a little bit of clearence fore and aft. The receiver looks gray from the de-rusting process I also Drilled and tapped my first receiver! I tried drilling for the Leupold 2 piece bases on a practice receiver that had a lot of setback. I drilled and tapped the rear hole first with a Wheeler jig, then I instaled the base and tightened it down and made sure it was square, I marked the front hole with a Brownells #6 center punch, used the base as a drill guide on my drill press, and then indexed the Wheeler jig so I could use the bushing to keep the tap straight. It fits perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 It looks really good! The advice for notching that I've followed is out of Roy Dunlap's Gunsmithing. His advice is to notch just far enough that the flag safety is easy to fully engage. Have you tried this test? The first one I did was before I completely understood what Mr. Dunlap was trying to communicate. I overdid that one. Its one of my first trophys, but I imagine that I could weld it up and try again. I tend to learn the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 The advice for notching that I've followed is out of Roy Dunlap's Gunsmithing. His advice is to notch just far enough that the flag safety is easy to fully engage. That is fine except that it is possible to get the flag safety to engage and still not have the lugs seated properly. You must ensur ethat the notch does not inhibit the lugs' ability to seat properly. Otherwise, the rear of the bolt becaomes the locking lug and not the lugs up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911rat Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 The advice for notching that I've followed is out of Roy Dunlap's Gunsmithing. His advice is to notch just far enough that the flag safety is easy to fully engage. After reading up on what everyone else here said about it, I used two tests. I marked the inner "c" ring (hope I named it right) where the ejector slot indexed on a straight bolt. Then I kept cutting until the safety engaged. I found, on mine anyway, that the safety engages just before TDC. Taking off a little bit more (very little) the safety engages easily at TDC. And, if anyone's wondering, that's one of Davis' bolts. Top notch work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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