Mauser Takedown

[slseacrist]

First i would like to say I have been bumming around for a while, and like what I see. I have been sporterizing for that last 10 years. I am interested in sporterizing a mauser, either a Swedish 96, of a larger ring mauser. The plan is to make it into a takedown. I am thinking of using interrupted threads and some kind of homemade locking system. I am planning, of course, to practice on a Turk. Does any one have any experience with this, advice, or comments. Thanks in advance. SS

[Doble Troble]

There was a thread about this a while back.

 

The approach was to use a set screw to secure the barrel and forarm. It looked good to me, but of course there are more elegant solutions.

 

Don't have much time right now, but you should be able to track it down with the search. I'll try myself tomorrow.

[sonic1]

i"ve done one with a turk and a rem.700 takeoff barrel ,using a setscrew to hold barrel...you will need a longer set of threads if you want to try interrupted threads .i welded a lug to the bottom of the barrel ,drilled and taped it to hold barrel to forestock..then cut the stock with a thin saw blade ..

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/988983/MVC-012S.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/988983/MVC-011S.JPG

 

[BobVZ]

How about using the Savage system? You could turn the greater diameter of the barrel ahead or the receiver threads to 1.055 and thread 20 V TPI. Then you could use a standard Savage barrel nut to tighten things down. Barrels could then be easily switched using the nut wrench and a headspace gauge.

[z1r]

A classy way is to fit a seperate forend to each barrel and use a latch in the foreend to secure the barrel.

[Guest Guest_bilurey_*]

Taking on another of the easier conversions are we? M98 cocking piece peep sight, converting M71/84 Mauser to M98, converting Arisaka type 38 action to something attractive to look at?

 

Most of the really important help I got in getting into "sportsterizing" came from a Master gunsmith in a suburb of Atlanta, GA. in the '70s. He and his partner bought a load of machinery and began making M1911 slides and frames on a custom basis. Their bread and butter was sporting rifles, incredibably beautiful things. One of their offshoots was the cleverest and the most secure takedown system I have ever seen on a rifle, adaptable to any bolt action (assuming you had the same level of skill as they). Work got around and the FBI requested a Swat/Sniper style M70 takedown for testing. It was sent off and not a word heard for about 13 months. The rifle was returned with no finish or bluing left on it. However, it still shot one inch groups at 100yrds. as guarenteed. The FBI lavished it with Govermentese praise, acknowledging that it still grouped as claimed at 100 yrds after considerable firing and takedowns. No further contact after that.

 

All I remember is that it used a full threaded shank, a disconnecting latch on the forearm at the joint, and both halves of the stock having steel plates at the disconnect point. Their thought was to allow several different calibers to be barreled on the same action and used interchangebly. Cost reared it's ugly head and in spite of a very positive write-up in one of the gun magazines, the project dwindled away to nothing. Now the bad news, I don't remember any of the details of the mechanism as I was trying to learn how to mount G&H scope mounts and adapt Winchester three position commercial safeties to '03 Springfields (both use same thread and diameter shank).

 

I mentioned to z1r that the swirling mists of time which obsecure earlier events in our lives seem to swirl more and more closely to current events as we age. My swirling mists of time are about 12 hours behind me. Needless to say, I'm not certain that the group was called Atlanta Firearms Guild and that they were located in Buford, Ga., but I believe this may be quite close. Bill

[odies dad]

I just read about a 98 takedown the other day. This one had no barrel threads, but used the bolt locking lugs to hold things together. Not real sure how it worked but the craftsmanship was superb.

[slseacrist]

Thanks for all the replies. First this is a project that i am just toying with. Have a 1909 220 swift the is 80% right now, then a stock job for 77/22, and when Montana Rifle Company solves it back order problem, a 300 Wby. Mag. So I am still in the planning stage for this project. I am thinking of using a 1909 action, and building a three barrel set. The three barrels would be 250-3000, 308 and 358. The plan would be to use iron sights, a bolt peep would be would be investigated. I would like all thee calibers to be octagon barrels and have their own forends. I would like to use a system, similar to that of the savage 99 takedown. My goal is to have the gun break down with no tools. I am thinking if using interrupted threads were the are three thread locking surfaces. I have not worked out the engineering, but hope that the thread on the 1909 , that have been interrupted will take the pressures. As for the locking system to be between the barrels and the action, I have not worked it out. Maybe a system like that of that Browning 22 Auto rifle ( I cannot remember the model) or some other system that I have not invented. Further thoughts, suggestions, and criticism, would be greatly appreciated.

[z1r]

The locking system Blurey mentions is the most common and practical. The plates have screws that can be adjusted to compensate for wear. The lever is not unlike those found on shotgun forends only it has a bar that slips into the plate at the front of the receiver to stop any rotation.

 

The ones made with interupted threads were special factory built jobs and weren't really threaded. Hard to explain.

 

Another really nice trio in a fullsize 1909 action would be .257 bob, 7.65x53, and 9.3x57. But your trio sounds good too. I'm big on the .338-08 too.