Flintlock Hints

[Guest Guest_FC]

Flintocks

 

Cow’s Knee keeps out moisture. It is leather which covers the action and is strapped on.

 

When hunting, carry the rifle canted to the right. This keeps the primer charge against the outside of the pan. If you pile the priming charge up against the touchhole, it creates a fuse effect, and the flame must burn its way through the built-up powder charge before it reaches the main charge, causing slow and often unreliable ignition.

Experiment on how much powder to use- usually ½ to 2/3 of a full pan.

When hunting, check the priming charge about every 30 minutes. It will draw moisture. If the priming charge seems damp, sweep it off with a pan brush, then wipe the pan and frizzen with a dry cloth.

 

Pulling a charge

 

Attach a ball screw to the end of the ramrod and drop it down the muzzle onto the ball. Apply steady pressure and turn the rod slowly so the screw bites into the soft lead. Wrap a leather thong around the ramrod, tie the loose end to a tree or solid object, and pull on the gun from the breech end. Remove the patch with a worm attachment, and dump the powder charge. Clean rifle.

 

A drop of melted bees wax on the receiver above the lock helps protect the priming charge by deflecting any water from running down the barrel and into the lock. To prevent water from getting into the main powder charge, carry the rifle muzzle down or put a piece of electricians tape over the muzzle.

 

Cleaning

 

Caliber and load determine how often you must clean. The heavier the powder charge, the more fouling and the more attention you must pay to cleaning. To clean in the field, I carry patches in two 35 mm film containers, one bunch soaked in rubbing alcohol, and dry patches in another.

 

Carry with you

 

Pan brush, vent pick, extra flints, and something to tighten the jaws of the cock. For ramrod tooks, carry a cleaning jag, a worm for patches, and a ball screw.

 

Flints

 

Both sawn agate and English black flint work well. Make sure the sharp edge of the flint is properly aligned so it strikes about ¼ down the frizzen. Always use the largest flint the lock can handle, because bigger flints produce more sparks. Hold the flint in the jaws with a piece of supple leather. If you don’t get reliable sparking, maybe the frizzen needs repair. A good gunsmith can re-harden the frizzen, or buy a replacement.

 

Twist

 

Slower twists are better for round balls. A 1 in 66 inch twist in a .50 caliber barrel is a round ball twist. A 1 in 48 inch twist may work better with conicals. Sabot loads are meant for modern rifle barrels only, with their faster twists.

 

 

From Fur, Fish, and Game, Richard Bishop, Jan., 2003

 

[FC]

Scotchbrite on jag.

CO2, to dislodge stuck balls, from Log Cabin Shop 330-948-1082

Try 3F for primer. Doesn’t go to mush so easy. Probably holds more O2. Has a graphite glaze.

 

[Guest TONEY]

Cool post !

I've really been wanting a flint lock. One for small game hunting

[FC]

They are fun, but you have to know their likes, dislikes, and moods like your spouse.