tomme boy Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 This was my first complete build. It is a M48 Yugo. I did this one in .308win. It is a A&B F34. The stock is a Richards Microfit. It was their first stock that was cut for other than a very light wieght contour. It took hardly any work for the barrel or action to fit it. The bolt is a Davis May. I did all of the work myself on this one. The finish on the stock is Var Urethane. There is abut 30 coats on it. I sanded each coat then put on another to fill the grain and get it smooth. The blue is Birtchwoods Super Blue. It took about 2 weeks to get it black. Heat it up, put on the solution , dunck it in cold water. This shoots real good too. Once I found what it liked. The best group with this one is a .7925" from the widest to widest. It also likes to have a lot of copper in the bore before it shoots well. Remindes me of my Rem 700. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 Very nice wood. I like claro walnut. It kind-of explodes under a chisel, but when you get it finished it really looks great. Did you bed it? If not this might help the fouled bore dependence - or not! Nice first rifle! What's next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomme boy Posted September 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 It is fully bedded. The bore is not very smooth. That and the reamer I used to finish the chamber cut the throat very-very long. On a total clean barrel, it takes about 10 shots before it will settle down. The I can go about 50 shots before it starts to fall apart again. The next one I was thinking about is the 6.5x47 Swiss, or a 6.5-250 imp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted September 19, 2006 Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 Another nice job!! This time I read your post throughly before commenting. I also use and like the Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Works good on Turk restorations on all the metal except the buttplate that doesn’t take to it to well. I don't have the patience you have, most I did was two coats. I heat it up and degrease in the dishwasher after turning the hot water heater up full blast and let the chemicals sit over night. I usually let it sit a few days before oiling it. I did an old Sears 22 about 25 years ago with it. It has lightened and shows a few streaks but for 4.99 a bottle can't complain to much. Here is a pic of the Turk's receiver, nice black color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reverend Recoil Posted September 19, 2006 Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 A point checkering pattern would look nice on that stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeeter2859 Posted September 19, 2006 Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 Very nice job, it shows time and care in the finish. What grade is the stock? I have a AA fancy coming from Richards. Hope it looks like yours.....Keep up the good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted September 19, 2006 Report Share Posted September 19, 2006 how would you rate the inletting on the stock? did you have them leave some material, or cut it press fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted September 20, 2006 Report Share Posted September 20, 2006 I did a 6.5 x 55 AI on an A&B rough barrel. The accuracy issue was different than yours, it would shoot accurately for about 20 rounds and then start to go South. Cleaning was a bear and it would actually tear patches up. I finally resorted to J&B compound. About 10 applications worth - 100 strokes total - I wasn't messing around. This smoothed it out considerably and it shoots accurately much longer and cleans up nicely too. I figured this was a fair trade-off for the price I paid for the barrel and I'm happy with A&B - I essentially had to lap it myself. That rifle is *reasonably* accurate, about 1.5" at 100 yds with my best load. I think that I might have done better with a better chamber - this is one that I did with a home-made reamer that didn't cut too well - long story. Anyway, being cheap I took the cheap barrel plunge with an A&B 375 barrell again for a 38-55 that I built on a Win 94. This one had NONE of the rough bore issues of the 6.5 mm. The chamber was cut with a commercial reamer. This has turned-out to be a rifle that will shoot one hole groups at 100 yds with cast bullets. I think cheap barrels can be a real bargain, if you're willing to lap them yourself. Next time I get a rough cheap one I'm going to cast a lead lap and do the job right from the begining prior to chambering. The next one I was thinking about is the 6.5x47 Swiss, or a 6.5-250 imp. What the blank is a 6.5 x 47 Swiss (I can kind-of imagine)? I think a 6.5 x 250 imp (and also probably the Swiss) are excellent efficient and accurate cartridge choices! Keep up the great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomme boy Posted September 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2006 Skeet, it was over a year ago that I got the stock. I can not remember what I ordered for the grade. I can not find the paperwork for it. But the AA sounds right? I think. It was a press fit. It fit mine pretty well. It was tight in some spots and loose in others. Kind of like my old la.... wait did I say that. I told them I had a A&B F34 and they said they were going to do a CNC program for a #3 contour and it should be a little smaller than the F34. I did not have to take out much to get it floated. What the blank is a 6.5 x 47 Swiss (I can kind-of imagine)? The round just came out not too long ago. If I do this one I am going to have a friend help set it up on his lathe to do the chamber. Here is some info. 6.5x47 Swiss I tried the JB route but it did not help. This thing has chatter marks all the way down the tube. When I say it falls apart, goes from a group just under 1" out to about 1.25". Most people would love to have a rifle that shoots a 1.25" group. I have ownded several Rem and Sav. rifles that were called varmit rifles that would not shoot any better than 1.25'' at 100. Some of them are real accurate, but some of them are real dogs. Here is a target that I shot with one of my 700's that I have kept in .243win. It was shot at 500yds. Like I said not all are bad. This just likes to shoot with a bunch of copper in the bore.[attachmentid=204] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_drjerry1st_* Posted September 29, 2006 Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 Question: Is anyone using the us products bore paste for cleaning? Some of my friends have been using it and I started using it myself. Supposedly it uses garnet as an abrasive to remove everything except the steel. They have a video of how to clean with it on their website. Sounds great except with their method there is still copper in the lands that have to be removed chemically. Just did that today...long process. Nest question: Does anyone know of a tutorial on how to do a proper lead lap....I can't help but believe that is what needs to be done with all these cheap barrels like the Weatherby Vanguard that I'm presently trying to get ready to elk hunt with. I've got a turk that I need to do something with and thought maybe a 7x57. I already have one in one of those short Ruger #1s and I absolutely love the gun but would sort of like a repeater. Something short...maybe a manlicher stock...leather sling...Burris compact. Any ideas on a good source for a barrel? Seems like I remember you guys talking about a small ring barrel in 7x57 that was pretty short from some source? Would love to have that all blued steel and one of those Richards micro fit stocks in a traditional manlicher stock in a real good grade of walnut...nothing like blued steel and walnut. Anyway, tell me what you think, J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomme boy Posted September 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2006 Question: Is anyone using the us products bore paste for cleaning? Some of my friends have been using it and I started using it myself. Supposedly it uses garnet as an abrasive to remove everything except the steel. They have a video of how to clean with it on their website. Sounds great except with their method there is still copper in the lands that have to be removed chemically. Just did that today...long process. Nest question: Does anyone know of a tutorial on how to do a proper lead lap....I can't help but believe that is what needs to be done with all these cheap barrels like the Weatherby Vanguard that I'm presently trying to get ready to elk hunt with. I've got a turk that I need to do something with and thought maybe a 7x57. I already have one in one of those short Ruger #1s and I absolutely love the gun but would sort of like a repeater. Something short...maybe a manlicher stock...leather sling...Burris compact. Any ideas on a good source for a barrel? Seems like I remember you guys talking about a small ring barrel in 7x57 that was pretty short from some source? Would love to have that all blued steel and one of those Richards micro fit stocks in a traditional manlicher stock in a real good grade of walnut...nothing like blued steel and walnut. Anyway, tell me what you think, J When you lap a barrel using the lead lap method, you have to take off 2" of bothe ends of the barrel. It eggs out the ends. On a blank, it is not a problem on the chamber end. You will be running the reamer into it to remove the bad rifling. Then chop off the other end and recrown it. I would not do this to a barrel that is already been chambered and crowned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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