Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Thanks, Mfrc

flaco

By flaco
in Finished Products & Misc.

 Share

Recommended Posts

flaco

flaco

Posted
Posted

Thanks, MFRC-

 

About last September, I began obsessing on custom rifles. I had owned a few old Mausers years ago--at the tail end of my marriage [need I say why?]--and been a member of the excellent local gun club, but was not even aware of the concept of a Custom Gun.

 

I began buying books, hey, they're cheap, and sometimes a good investment.. and haunting the net for rifle sites.

 

I was particularly interested in the history and tradition of this arcane subject.

 

I started off with two 1909 barreled actions. These were not perfect, replete with the now legendary "minor pitting below the woodline," but I was pleased at the time. Looking back, from the perspective of a not-to-be-expected success, I wish I had known then what qualifies a receiver to be a donor receiver.

 

This is project #1:

 

user posted image

 

I guess it's obvious to everyone that it's an emulation of an early 20th century custom rifle.

 

As noted, it's a 1909 action. The stock is by GAGS, and although I spent a good day pondering as to whether or not to send it back--it has at least 10 pin knots--I decided to keep it. Overall, I'm glad I did.

 

The tung oil finish--not a tung oil varnish--brought out figure that I did not know was there.

 

It was a lot of work, and I removed a lot of wood to fit the Niedner butt plate and pistol grip cap.

 

(Now, of course, I know it's probably better to buy a blank and have a cutter shape it, and that's what I did on project #2.)

 

Using only files, I narrowed the triggerguard bow.

 

I pillar bedded the rear receiver tang, and glass bedded the front.

 

I had help fitting a Lothar Walther barrel.

 

I had help from the local welder (a girl, hey this is California) tigging in the serial number on the triggerguard, and some nasty pits on the bolt handle.

 

I had help drilling and tapping for the Lyman aperture sight. If you're thinking I like Lyman sights, your correct. I like the improved sight radius of the aperture sight, and I think that this fits in with my traditional model.

 

I sweated on the barrel band sling swivel, and the NECG front sight. The front band sight was problematic: I measured the muzzle, and ordered what I thought was the correct band, but found it didn't fit. I was reluctant to try stretching the band (as the instructions direct) and I didn't have an old barrel to bang to sight onto. I ended up with the next larger sight, which was generously large.

 

I was particularly worried that excess solder would show when I blued the barrel, but as you can see, it's relatively clean. You'd have to be up close to notice any excess solder.

 

And looking for it.

 

user posted image

 

I am also very happy with the SLOW rust blue. I researched this pretty extensively, and found the Dunlop book, and Jim Baiar's instructions that accompany his Gun Goddess blue, very helpful.

 

I'm also pleased with my decision to bead blast the parts before bluing. My only local friend who had done this was aghast when I told him I was going to blast the parts, but the final finish is a very smooth satin, which reflects more the condition the parts were in before blasting that the actual blasting itself.

 

Most importantly, I believe the blasting prepares the metal for the blue. It was suggested that parts should be blued immediately after blasting, and I believe this is good advice.

 

Mainly, I'm a slob, but was also very careful to keep the parts surgically clean before and during the bluing.

 

Really, I think of SLOW rust bluing as alchemy: turning dross to gold. It amazes me. Who knew you could improve steel by rusting it, and then boiling it?

 

The only part I didn't blue was the NECG sight hood, which came blued. It's a reasonably good match, and don't think I'll change it.

 

I mounted a Timney Sportsman trigger, which was a drop-in, with the exception of removing wood from the stock.

 

There are, of course, a few things left to do: I'll remove the Niedner grip cap and butt plate and blue them to match. I need to blue the bolt stop/ejector.

 

The stock needs a couple of final coats of tung oil, and a good rub out to bring up the luster.

 

In the end, though, despite the fact that aesthetics are important, we all know that there is one objective criterion by which rifles are judged: accuracy.

 

This rifle groups.

 

flaco

 

N.B. She's very light, comes naturally to the shoulder, and puts my eye where I want it. I've also been told she kicks more than a Springfield. Even with my girly man 7x57 loads. LOL.

 

I have had the help of many, many people on this project, and for that I am truly grateful. Most of them were right here on MFRC. Thanks.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flaco

flaco

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Shucks, guys-

 

[Looks down, kicks dirt.]

 

Karl, she groups.

 

One of my buddies is still amazed that it's more accurate with iron sight than his Springfield with a scope.

 

Thanks again for all the help,

 

flaco

Link to comment
Share on other sites
montea6b

montea6b

Posted
Posted

Beautiful rifle! I seem to vaguely recall your original "variation on a concept" post, and I'd have to say that you nailed it. Very classy.

 

A question: You referred to tung oil finish vice tung oil varnish. What brand did you use? I probably should have researched this a bit more, but I ended up using Formby's low gloss tung oil. (not sure if it's "finish" or varnish)

 

Anyhow, it sure ended up more "varnishy" than expected. And glossier as well. I have used Watco Danish oil on furniture and other projects before and was expecting similar results. This was my first time using tung oil, and I only did so because it seems to be the universally accepted finish for a fine custom stock. Maybe I should have thinned it more. It's OK, but I could be happier.

 

Finally... "She groups".

 

Come on Flaco, we are numbers guys! Give us a tangible quantity, please! Or better yet, a photo of a 3 shot group covered by a dime!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flaco

flaco

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Monty-

 

I used Behr's #600, because it came so highly recommended by the guys on another forum.

 

It's primarily linseed oil, tung oil, wax, and lots of mineral spirits.

 

I know it will rub out to a decent luster, but it seems to darken the wood more than I would have liked.

 

I'm currently finishing up Project #2, on which I--for the most part--followed Bill Soverns' instructions. For the final stages I balked at paying $10 shipping for Daly's BenMatte tung oil, and am using McCloskey Tung Oil, 9931.

 

The problem may be similar to yours: This ends up with that "Dipped In Plastic" look.

 

It's not a matte finish, as is, I presume, the BenMatte.

 

What I'm doing now is rubbing it out with rottenstone, using the McCloskey's to wet it down. It's a slow, laborious process, but after removing the rottenstone with a wet rag, and giving one last very light coat--just a kiss as it were--of McCloskey's, I end up with much less gloss.

 

It has depth, and is very clear, which allows the figure and grain of the wood to shine.

 

flaco

 

N.B. Along the way, Monty, I've been getting--and sometimes rejecting--advice from a boatbuilder friend, who finishes wood for a living. One of his points was... amateurs sometimes experiment, while professionals stay with the tried and true.

 

Maybe best just to follow the instructions, to the letter, of the professionals.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...