Kyle Posted October 1, 2006 Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 I need to bend the bolt for my Gew 88 project and I'm wondering what would be the best method to bend the bolt so a scope can be used. I think I'd somehow have to modify the original handle instead of buying a new handle like you can for Mausers. I have access to welders so that isn't a problem. Any suggestions are appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 1, 2006 Report Share Posted October 1, 2006 If you have access to welders then cut it off and put what you want on it. You have access to a lathe, then turn your own handle and weld it on. You are only limited by your imagination, that and physics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 Tomorrow I'm going to try bending two Gew 88 bolts using a method similar to this: Wagner's site The measurements for cutting with the dremel won't be the same though as the bot is shaped differently at the base. The bolt handle is also further forward on the bolt then on the mauser. When closed the bolt handle is actually in front of the split bridge on the receiver. Will I be able to sweep the handle back closer to the trigger guard or will it still be a ways in front of it? After I heat it and bend like in the link how do I fill in the gap with weld and sweep it outward and rearward to complete the bend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 that and physics Sometimes I hate that damn killjoy, physics. Kyle, you may be on the ragged edge of experience with the 88 - it's not a commonly scoped action. If you've got a digital camera you should document your project and post for those that may follow. Jack Belk's site that was recently discussed may be helpful in-terms of welding advice. Here it is. As for dimensions, because you're working with an action that isn't commonly sporterized, you're probably going to have to study the layout and come up with a plan on your own. If it were me doing this I'd try to keep the root of the handle intact as much as possible and to move the handle straight down. After the handle is down, and everything looks like its going to work you can start thinking about what will happen when you sweep it back. One step at a time in unfamiliar territory. I think Z's advice about making your own handle is a good one. The one's I've forged I'm thinking about cutting off and replacing with a welded-on version. It's harder to replace a forged handle because of the stock inlet. You've got to make the handle and weld it on to fit the stock. Nothing looks worse than a stock cut for bolt handles in two places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 I can't for the life of me figure out what possible advantage the cut, forge, weld approach has? Seems like lots of extra work to me. Either forge it or weld it. In this case I would weld because where are you going to find forging blocks for the 88? Like DT said, slow and low, that is the tempo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 I can't for the life of me figure out what possible advantage the cut, forge, weld approach has? Seems like lots of extra work to me. Either forge it or weld it. In this case I would weld because where are you going to find forging blocks for the 88? Like DT said, slow and low, that is the tempo. Are you recommending the method where you cut the handle off, use two vices to hold the handle at the desired angle and distance away from the bolt and then and using a wire feed welder to fill in the space between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 Are you recommending the method where you cut the handle off, use two vices to hold the handle at the desired angle and distance away from the bolt and then and using a wire feed welder to fill in the space between? No, I'm a tig welder myself. I'd tig it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 So basically like the method posted in this thread: welding tutorial I think wire feed and TIG welding are two names for the same thing. Maybe you thought I meant stick welding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobDole Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 MIG and TIG are 2 different things. MIG (Metal Inert Gas) or GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is a gas shielded welding process where a consumable wire electrode is feed from a gun. There is a big spool of wire in the machine that feeds out the end out the torch/gun when the trigger is pressed. TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) or GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is a gas shielded welding process that uses a torch with a non-consumable tungsten electrode in the torch and a filler rod that is held in your hand. The part and filler is heated by plasma (i like that word for some reason) from the torch. The filler rod is dipped in and out of the weld puddle to form the bead. Not a very good explination but it is late and i had a few too many beers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted October 8, 2006 Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 I used the cut/bend/weld method. I recommend cutting it off and welding it, or welding a new one on. I would rather have a longer handle than I wound up with. It works, but I would not use the same method again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2006 MIG and TIG are 2 different things. MIG (Metal Inert Gas) or GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding) is a gas shielded welding process where a consumable wire electrode is feed from a gun. There is a big spool of wire in the machine that feeds out the end out the torch/gun when the trigger is pressed. TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) or GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) is a gas shielded welding process that uses a torch with a non-consumable tungsten electrode in the torch and a filler rod that is held in your hand. The part and filler is heated by plasma (i like that word for some reason) from the torch. The filler rod is dipped in and out of the weld puddle to form the bead. Not a very good explination but it is late and i had a few too many beers. Ok, I got it. I don't have access to a TIG welder but I have access to a MIG welder and a stick welder. Which would be best for welding on the bolt handle? In the tutorial in the link I posted above it shows there is a gap between the bolt handle and the bolt root which is then filled in with weld. How big a gap can you make there? The Gew 88 bolt is further up on the bolt body then the Mauser 98 so I'd like to make it longer and sweep it back further then you probably would want to with the mauser, could I make a larger gap and just build up the weld to connect the bolt handle with the bolt root? Where should I cut off the bolt handle from the stub to prepare it to be welded back on? The tutorial shows it being cut at an angle 3/8 up the bolt root but the Gew 88 bolt root is much shorter then the Mauser's and it seems like it would be very hard to cut it at an angle like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Check out Steve Wagners site the info for the mosin would be a good starting point, his Bolt is threaded but the bridge clearing info is interesting, Did you ever think of using an old wrench for a butter knife handle another cheap option that would look cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 Check out Steve Wagners site the info for the mosin would be a good starting point, his Bolt is threaded but the bridge clearing info is interesting, Did you ever think of using an old wrench for a butter knife handle another cheap option that would look cool. I have seen that site before. I'm planning on first trying to use the original handle first but if that fails I'll just cut it off and try that method. The butter knife handles look cool but how well do they work? I've never used one but to me they seem like they would be more difficult to grab and cycle the bolt then the regular ball at the end of the military handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 They do feel a little different but it didn't take long to get used to it, I didn't thin mine out a lot and bent it out a little at the end for leverage. I'll try to clean it up a little over the next couple of days so it looks good,enough to post a picture,it's well a wrench. I've got a couple of irons in the fire right now (one an 88 also I'm trying to restore and one I still have'nt decided on the plan for yet) This bolt is for an M44 someone else's post on here got me hot to do, check out the mosin posts really nice work, I just think the butter knife goes well with the split bridge the design and operation is close enough to the 88(other than that damn sleeve to attach the action screw to) to get some ideas. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 They do feel a little different but it didn't take long to get used to it, I didn't thin mine out a lot and bent it out a little at the end for leverage. I'll try to clean it up a little over the next couple of days so it looks good,enough to post a picture,it's well a wrench. I've got a couple of irons in the fire right now (one an 88 also I'm trying to restore and one I still have'nt decided on the plan for yet) This bolt is for an M44 someone else's post on here got me hot to do, check out the mosin posts really nice work, I just think the butter knife goes well with the split bridge the design and operation is close enough to the 88(other than that damn sleeve to attach the action screw to) to get some ideas. Roy Is it ready to take photos of yet? I'm looking forward to seeing it. So you made it from a wrench? Could you tell me how to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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