Rem 700 Barrel On A Turk?

[Kyle]

I just got a stainless steel barrel off a Remington 700 on ebay for $33 shipped. I now know that it can't be used on a large ring action but I plan on picking up a Turkish M38 for around $80 and putting it on there.

 

I know it will work on the Turk M38 as it is a large ring action with small ring threads (or something like that) but I'm not sure of the exact process of fitting it for the Turk. I have access to a lathe and CNC machines both of which can cut threads but I'm not sure exactly what to do.

 

The CNC machine could cut more exact threads but it would be a lot quicker on the lathe so if that would work fine I'd prefer to use that. Can someone give me detailed instructions on what to do and include some photos if possible or give me a link to instructions?

 

Once I cut the new threads to fit the Turk how do I remove the old barrel and fit the new one properly?

[Doble Troble]

A standard lathe will work fine.

 

If memory serves (and the one I work with is only semi-reliable, so check this twice before cutting once) you need a shank of 0.980" diameter and then need to cut 55* threads at 12 tpi. The length is determined by distance between the breech face and shoulder. I cut the shoulder and face the breech to meet the reciever and inner "C" ring at the same point. There are a multitude of opinions about this, and I don't necessarily think that my approach will be the best for you (with that PC disclaimer I probably do think this approach is best, but won't spend time defending this position).

 

I finish reaming the chamber after I get the breech faced and shoulder cut. I ream chambers a couple of thousandths deeper than the depth measurement of the reciever ring to the face of the closed bolt. I tighten barrels firmly, but don't gorilla them. I usually get minimum headspace using this approach, but your mileage may vary.

 

I don't have Dunlap's Gunsmithing handy to double check these dimensions, but if you're getting into this work you should get yourself a copy. It's a great general reference, and not too expensive.

[tinkerfive]

Kyle

 

In my opinion this is a situation of keeping the horse in front of the cart.

 

You need to be able to pull the old barrel FIRST before you attempt to

rethread the Remmington barrel.

You need to measure the action to match the barrel to it.

 

DON'T even trust copying the pulled barrel.

I've pulled barrels that weren't touching the "C" ring,

only tourqued to the SECONDARY shoulder.

 

If you don't have the barrel vice and receiver wrench,

there is little point to threading a new barrel if you don't

have a way to get the old one off and new one on.

 

Do you ever travel to Pittsburgh?

I'd help you out with a few things.

 

Tinker

[odies dad]

Definitely pull your old barrel off first and make sure you have small ring threads. Some turks are large thread reworks.

As for the barrel, I start by facing off the recess for the Remington bolt and turn a .98 shank that is as long as the distance from the C-ring to the finished secondary shoulder. I remove the handguard recess from the front of the receiver ring to bring it closer to regular large ring dimentions.

One you have everything set up, cut the threads and trial fit the barrel on the receiver. Make sure both torque shoulders are hitting, especially the inner one. I try to index the barrel so that the stamping and any sight holes are positioned properly.

[sonic1]

these guys are right ...slow down ..first get the turk...make jig to remove barrel...make jig to face off front

of action...get thick wall 3/4" pipe and practice cutting threads so that they fit the action...barrels are not for practice....every thing you make in the way of jigs will be useful for years to come ....so go ahead and make them...you said a turk m38....get one marked k. kale

[z1r]

Since you have access to machines then do as others have suggested and make an action wrench and barrel vise. This will keep you from ruining the action and/or barrel. Then remove the old barrel. I all starts there. Once you have the barrel off you need to inspect the action to ensure it is safe or worthy of further investment of your time & money. Once you determine it is ok, then you remove the lip and do any other work including lapping, truing, etc. Once all of that is done, then you can start to measure how long your shank will be and what the distance from front ring to inner ring and front ring to boltface. If you do this beforehand, the measurements will change.

 

 

 

 

[Kyle]

Since you have access to machines then do as others have suggested and make an action wrench and barrel vise. This will keep you from ruining the action and/or barrel. Then remove the old barrel. I all starts there. Once you have the barrel off you need to inspect the action to ensure it is safe or worthy of further investment of your time & money. Once you determine it is ok, then you remove the lip and do any other work including lapping, truing, etc. Once all of that is done, then you can start to measure how long your shank will be and what the distance from front ring to inner ring and front ring to boltface. If you do this beforehand, the measurements will change.

 

Can you give me instructions on how can I make my own barrel vise and action wrench?

[gun nutty]

If the barrel is a junker, I'd wouldn't waste the time on a barrel vise.

 

You can cut a relief groove on the barrel just in front of the receiver ring to help remove the barrel. That should release pressure on the threads and allow easy barrel removal.

 

clamp the barreled action (sans bolt and parts) through the lathe headstock to do this.

 

Now, this applies to an M98... the Turk has the extension on the receiver ring... I'd see about machining the extension partway off then getting closer to the receiver ring.

[z1r]

If the barrel is a junker, I'd wouldn't waste the time on a barrel vise. How do you propose to tighten the replacement barrel without a vise?

 

You can cut a relief groove on the barrel just in front of the receiver ring to help remove the barrel. That should release pressure on the threads and allow easy barrel removal. Not unless the secondary shoulder is touching. This trick works great on Enfields but rarely on Mausers.

 

 

clamp the barreled action (sans bolt and parts) through the lathe headstock to do this.

 

 

Now, this applies to an M98... the Turk has the extension on the receiver ring... I'd see about machining the extension partway off then getting closer to the receiver ring.

 

 

Look at a Brownless catalog. If you can;t figure out how to make a vise from the pics ( they even give the specs of the bushings) then you might ought to consider not rebarreling. Somewhere on here, someone posted how to make a wrench. Do a search. I'll also try to find it tonight. It was pretty good.

[gun nutty]

Thanks Z1r. I didn't think about re-tightening the completed components.

 

Not having a Turk and knowing that small ring mauser barrels fit the Turk, I guessed that the barrel butted against the receiver face rather than the inner torque ring.

 

Your insight and experience is both humbling and appreciated.

[z1r]

Sorry, it wasn't meant to be humbling. Perhaps I should have waited til I'd had my second cup of coffee.

:-)

 

Just trying to help in my own grumpy way, lol.

[z1r]

Here's a link to a post on tool making. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1996&st=0

[Kyle]

Look at a Brownless catalog. If you can;t figure out how to make a vise from the pics ( they even give the specs of the bushings) then you might ought to consider not rebarreling. Somewhere on here, someone posted how to make a wrench. Do a search. I'll also try to find it tonight. It was pretty good.

 

I'm planning on making my own vise but I'm curious as to what the purpose of the bushings is. Why do I need bushings and can I make them myself?

[BobDole]

The bushings are to hold the barrel. You can make them from hardwood or AL. If you look at how a vise is made you will see the reason for them. Kind of hard to hold a round thing with just 2 flat pieces or a hole of the wrong size.

[donmarkey]

I'm planning on making my own vise but I'm curious as to what the purpose of the bushings is. Why do I need bushings and can I make them myself?

Barrel are in different sizes, with out bushings you'd need a vise for each barrel.

-Don

[Guest Guest_kenak2_*]

A standard lathe will work fine.

 

If memory serves (and the one I work with is only semi-reliable, so check this twice before cutting once) you need a shank of 0.980" diameter and then need to cut 55* threads at 12 tpi. The length is determined by distance between the breech face and shoulder. I cut the shoulder and face the breech to meet the reciever and inner "C" ring at the same point. There are a multitude of opinions about this, and I don't necessarily think that my approach will be the best for you (with that PC disclaimer I probably do think this approach is best, but won't spend time defending this position).

 

I finish reaming the chamber after I get the breech faced and shoulder cut. I ream chambers a couple of thousandths deeper than the depth measurement of the reciever ring to the face of the closed bolt. I tighten barrels firmly, but don't gorilla them. I usually get minimum headspace using this approach, but your mileage may vary.

 

I don't have Dunlap's Gunsmithing handy to double check these dimensions, but if you're getting into this work you should get yourself a copy. It's a great general reference, and not too expensive.

 

Has anyone ever tried re-threading a 'large ring - small shank' to remington threads?

I realize this would be a more indepth project and not economical but if you access to a mill and lathe it seam this would be the way to utilize a rem mag barrel.

 

[donmarkey]

Has anyone ever tried re-threading a 'large ring - small shank' to remington threads?

I realize this would be a more indepth project and not economical but if you access to a mill and lathe it seam this would be the way to utilize a rem mag barrel.

It would take some measurements to confirm, but seeing mauser both large and small ring have such a coarse thread, I doubt you would have enough metal left after boring. Even though the costs of standard large ring mausers such as vz-24"s, it still isn't worth the effort in my point of view. Time is best spent elsewhere. And if you ever tried internal threading in a blind hole, you'd know it's not an amateurs job.

-Don

[ken98k]

It would take some measurements to confirm, but seeing mauser both large and small ring have such a coarse thread, I doubt you would have enough metal left after boring. Even though the costs of standard large ring mausers such as vz-24"s, it still isn't worth the effort in my point of view. Time is best spent elsewhere. And if you ever tried internal threading in a blind hole, you'd know it's not an amateurs job.

-Don

 

The remington is a 1 1/16 x 16 barrel shank which is smaller than the mauser large ring shank of 1.10

Brownnells has a piloted remington tap. It's expesive though.

I'm going to talk to my machinist buddy and see what he thinks would be the best way to tackle this.