sonic1 Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 just got a bottle of brownells new rust bluing on wen. gave it a try on fri. and i think its one of the best i"ve tried ...after 3 coats its a real nice blue-black color..and with a $12.50 for 4fl oz. price tag its hard to beat.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 Enlighten please. Is this something you needed other chemicals and acids to do? Or is $12.50 the whole deal? Same as other rust blue - wipe on, wire wheel off the rust, wipe on...etc? Steaming tanks? I know nothing about rust bluing other than what I read on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 yes this is a rust blue process..polish with 320 grit .....boil in a good cleaning solution to remove all the oil. wipe with clean shop towel...then i boil again in clean water wear latex gloves to keep all oil off the parts.. wipe on a very thin coat of this solution ,let it set over night ....it will have a red rust covering on parts.... boil in water for 20-30 min..it will turn black ..then use 0000 steel wool that you have degreased..to remove, reapply again and let set .....any were fron 4 to 8 times will produce a real nice blue job... there are many ways and variation as to how you can do all of this ...heat and humidity play a big part... there are whole books wrote on the process..this was just a short high light on how its done... brownell send a nice pamplet with each bottle.. in a nut shell you can get very a very nice blue job at home ..with a small setup.. the metal restoration, processes forum here has some good info about rust bluing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 Thanks a bunch. I'll dig into the metal restoration process forums. I was about resigned to going with a Phos & Duracoat finish for this Turk just to hide the poor surface. The more I stone - the more little rough spots appear. Another month or so and I'll have a small ring! It's finally starting to come around and now I'm leaning towards a smooth satin blue. I like the rust blue guns I see in the members pics, just figured I couldn't get this thing good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamprat Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 Does it matter what type of pan you use for boiling? I have a galvanized drain pan that is big enough to hold a barrel but will the galvanize affect the finish? Swamprat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 you got me on that one..never tried it...i don"t think it would cause a problem...it just needs to be clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 is it okay if I put up an animated avatar on my profile? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 swampr, You can boil water in a tea kettle and rotate the barrel or part in the stream of steam to soften the rust. Boiling may be more convenient, but if you don't have a container big enough, steaming works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Does it matter what type of pan you use for boiling? I have a galvanized drain pan that is big enough to hold a barrel but will the galvanize affect the finish? Swamprat A little muricatic acid will take that zinc right off. Just exercise caution and don't breath in the fumes. Fumes never seem to be good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Would the Brownells method be superior to Pilkingtons? Would it be easier or harder to apply and would it give a better or worse finish? Or differ in color of bluing? I ask because I have a few projects and don't know which direction to take. LC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 i was using pilkingtons and have for years..but i thought i"d try the brownells...after the second gun...i ordered 2 more bottles just to make sure i could get it..thats how much i like it...but this is just me..i think its a deeper blue and gives faster results...now it will be sometime before i know how will it wears.it applys the same way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Thanks Sonic1, I've read that the Pilkingtons is harder to get even for the first 2 coats. Is this consistent with your findings? LC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamprat Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Will I or will I not get an even coating from Brownell's? I don't want to spend hour's polishing just to get some spotted result. I have this gun in condition to send to a bluer, if the results from Brownells are going to be spotty, please let me know now. Swamprat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 best thing to do is send it out ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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