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Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig


TLynn

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roscoedoh

1

Posts: 886

(6/12/05 22:56)

Reply Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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I was tinkering with my Wheeler jig the other night and have made the following observation: the centering pin just ahead of the front bushing does nothing to determine whether or not the jig is actually centered left-right, rather it controls where the jig stops in relation to front to back. I further noticed that once you tighten the jig down on the receiver, nothing moves.

 

From that I draw this conclusion: if I wanted to move the scope holes in the rear bridge to accomodate a mount different than what this jig is setup for, all I would have to do is unscrew the centering pin and move the jig forwards or backwards depending on where I needed it. The stand-off bushings determine left-right ailment so they shouldn't factor into front-back ailment.

 

What all this means is I can D/T an intermediate length receiver for odd mounts or a standard length receiver for FN style mounts and be able to put the rear mount where I want it rather than where Wheeler has determined it should be.

________________

 

What do you guys think? Have any of you all discovered this? Or an I off base with these observations?

 

What do yall think?

 

claytonfaulkner

1

Posts: 117

(6/13/05 1:21)

Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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i think you should leave it up to wheeler to determine where the hole should go

 

tanglewood16137

1

Posts: 320

(6/13/05 5:22)

Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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Jason

what you just figured out is exactly what i did to drill a mauser for a fn and a mauser 2 piece mount it just takes some figuring and patience.

 

Rod

 

Sailormilan2

1

Posts: 824

(6/13/05 7:36)

Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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I have a B-Square jig, which is essentially the same thing. To t&t the rear holes, I used the guide bar marked "S" (Springfield).

I did the front 2 holes with the standard "M" ( Mauser) bar, then switched bars. The second bar has different distances between the hole sets, not the holes themselve. This allowed me more latitude to position the rear two holes.

 

mod70

1

Posts: 174

(6/13/05 7:58)

Reply

ezSupporter

Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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Roscoe

 

One of the older posts mentioned moving the Wheeler jig around to accommodate various mounts other than the standard 1pc Leupolds, et.al.

 

It can be done but does introduce the possibility of getting the second set of hole(s) slightly off in one plane or the other. If done carefully with the 'measure twice cut once' method it can be done successfully.

 

 

 

Doble Troble

1

Posts: 496

(6/13/05 8:52)

Reply

Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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Dudes, the receiver bottom is flat - a convenient Mauser feature. These jigs take advantage of this feature by using a tight-fitting rod to secure the flat-bottomed receiver to the jig. There's virtually no lateral movement possible. You can move the assembly fore and aft - but as mentioned you may have to remove the indexing screw.

I am Bubba (but learning)

 

z1r

1

Posts: 2820

(6/13/05 9:44)

Reply Re: Observations on the Wheeler D/T Jig

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Not having one of these but knowing the basics of how they work I'd have to agree with DT & Jason with regards to hole placement. Heck, that is essentially how odd spacing is handled with the Forster Jig too. The front holes will be properly placed on any large ring receiver whether Intermediate or Standard length so do these first. Then after carefully marking the rear hole location, you can move the jig anywhere you want in order to drill the rear hole(s).

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Remember,

some of the Mausers and clones have non standard dimensions. I have a slightly off center front scope mount hole in one of my Siamese Mauser receivers. Off center due to the slight large/wider left receiver wall that the vertcal pin position against. Off by about 1-2 mm. I am probably going to have it tigged up, and redo it.

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That's one of the reasons I like the Forster fixture better if you are going to use one. It uses the barrel to align things so unless your barrel is bent or was cut very badly it will be on center. There is no need to worry about minor receiver variations.

 

As Flaco pointed out yesterday, the mill is THE way to go. Too bad the are $5,000+ instead of the $50 the jig is!

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