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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

257 Roberts Brass


Ron J

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Lotsa 257 bob people out there. Does anyone know the difference, assuming there is one, between Remington 257 Roberts brass and Winchester's which is marked "+P"? I've heard of +P loads in handguns but not +P brass.

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Mostly hype IMHO. Any brass can tolerate the "supposed" +P pressures as published for the Bob! Kinda like the "Ruger/Contender only" loads in the book. It is more about the firearm than the CTG..MV

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The +P brass is thicker. Thus, you must reduce powder charges and work back up. If you have a modern action there is no need for the +P brass unless maybe you have an older weaker action and a newer one that you reload for too.

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I do not disagree w/ ya Z. However The RP regular 257 Brass that I have on hand actually weighs more than the WW 257+P. Wish I could say that I had same/same headstamps, but, I don't. Also since only the youngest has a Bob, and it happens to be a Ruger, We truly don't worry about the differences [+P vs Non] We also do not "push" it. Aside from that, Speer #10 lists exactly the same loads as Speer #13, Except that #13 call's them +P. So I respectfully stand on my Hype Theory. MV

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Agreed, the loads listed for +P are higher pressure.

 

But, when the +P first came out they used thicker brass, the idea being to add a safety margin when/if used in old actions. Along the way that may have changed. I believe Winchester only makes the +P brass now (not sure on that though). Also agree that the extra 2K of pressure does NOT need special brass. Just like the .38 special +P. Same brass different head stamp.

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IIRC the +P .38 was introduced to bolster performance in modern 38's and small frame 357's like the Smith K's that were getting some bad press about loosening after thousands of full house 357's. Hence the L frame. From what I've read about Mausers being re-barreled to .270 and such, I would assume my Kale, after re-case hardening, would handle any .257 "book" load +p or otherwise. Or a .257 AO although it does not interest me. The next curiosity then would be, In the realm of older "weaker" guns vs newer guns, where would a re-heat treated Mauser fit? I realize it's done to prevent set back, but my mind never stops wondering about these things.

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