Manitou Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I know that some of you guys can help me. With the way that the Rem 700 barrel tapers, how do you hold it in the lathe? Even up to the shoulder, there is no flat spot to affix in the collet while turning the small ring threads for my Turk. I know about the use of a "spider", and plan to use one. And do you use a tapered bushing in the barrel vise when torqueing the barrel on? Thanks, Manitou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Manitou, You're right to be concerned about this - the best way to hold tapered work in the chuck would be to use some type of tapered collet or reversed spacer. But life is short, and we're all Bubbas to some degree (whether we admit it or not). Myself, and I suspect that most of us here, just bite into the barrel with whatever length of the chuck jaws make contact with the barrel - especially if the barrel will be refinished later. You should get good contact at the shank. If not planning on refinishing, I usually will put a few wraps of masking tape around the barrel. Sometimes this doesn't completely eliminate marking. I can't think of any reason not to use a better type of shim between barrel and jaw. The bottom line is that with everything true and taking reasonable cuts you really don't need to gorilla a barrel in the chuck to rethread and chamber, so less than complete jaw contact works-out fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I turn a taper on the inside of a piece of aluminum tube. I the past I've used the barrel bushing, just clamped it in the 4 jaw chuck. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slseacrist Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I use a spider on one end. I have a bunch of .25 brass rod cut to about .5 length. I clamp them between the chuck and the barrel. Then give a little but leave no marks, (well almost). It can be a bit tricky, trying to get them all lined up. You really need another hand. I have never had a problem with this setup. Of course taking Doble Troble small cuts advice. BTW I also use a four-jaw chuck, but I tend to always use a four-jaw chuch. Good Luck. Slseacrist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 A wrap of solid #6 copper wire is all you need between the barrel and the chuck jaws. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 My toolbox is full of misshaped penneys that I have used between chuck jaws and stock that I did not want to mar. Probably the last good use for a penny out there....... Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I've used small strips of aluminum with double-sided sticky tape between the workpiece and the chuck jaws. I wonder how a cut-up aluminum can would work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 i have a face plate that i put on inplace of the chuck...clamp a lathe dog on the barrel then thread on the right side on lathe.. this make it very eazy to take it out and torque it in the action to time the sights..i "ll try to post a pic of it later.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manitou Posted January 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Thanks for all of the replies! I managed to get a collet to grip on a smaller semi-non tapered part of the barrel to turn the threads, now I'm wondering how to torgue the barrel on to the reeiver. Although I'm not completly sold on this idea yet, I might bore an aluminum barrel bushing to the largest diameter of the barrel, right at the shoulder. Then I'll paint the barrel (liberally) with release agent, place it in the bushing, and fill it with acraglas steel bed. I should be able to knock the barrel bushing off and split it, and then use it like a non- tapered bushing. I used to worry about marring the barel with a bushing, or bushing slippage, but then I put one thickness of double sided carpet tape between the barrel and the bushing, and no more slipping ever occurs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 You can find tapered bushings for Remington but they are only good for removal, once you've cut the shank down they no longer fit. I have 2 bushings that I reamed out with a Morris #2 taper reamer. 1 is sized to the bottom of the reamer and 1 is sized to the top of the reamer. I've used them on barrels of various taper for installing or removing barrels. Of course I choose the one that fits best close to the chamber end. I just have a single cut in mine for a "C" shape. They have slipped some. Perhaps I might cut them into 2 pieces and give that double face tape idea a try. Tinker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manitou Posted January 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 Tinker, The Morris taper idea is a good one, I've got access to those reamers as well. I think you'll really be surprised how much the double sided tape helps. I use the kind that is built around fiber or cloth, for carpet use. It's heavy duty. I know a local fellow that used the foam based kind, and it kind of peeled apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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