scott63 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Ok, I've read what I can find on installing a short chambered barrel to finish ream, and I've watched a couple videos on the same topic, but all I ever see is "...don't over tighten..." or "...just snug it up..." Aren't there torque specs like when torquing end cap bearings or lug nuts? I've seen some Remington barrels removed that were never fired and new and they seemed a lot tighter than "...Just snug..." What are your thoughts on this? .........................Thanks, Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I use half a grunt of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I don't think it is hypercritical. I asked the same question when I did mine, and remember getting the same vague advice. I seem to remember reading somewhere that 25 ft lbs was about right, so I grabbed the end of action wrench and pulled till it felt like I was curling a 25lb dumbell. Pretty scientific, huh?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I snug it down, back off a half turn or so, and then romp down on it to tighten it. I don't quite put as much torque on my lug nuts because they have to be removed again sometime in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebel49 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 The method I have used for years with Mausers is simple and has worked well for me. On the bottom of the receiver find the witness mark. Install the barrel hand tight, and make a mark 1/8" on the barrel before the witness mark. Now torque till the two line up. This gives you about 50-60 Foot Pounds of torque. I recently re-barreled 2 Swede Mausers with new Swedish Military barrels that were finish chambered. Both headspaced exactly on the Go gauge using this method. The man I learned engraving from taught me this in 69-70, he learned this in Germany. Rebel49 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott63 Posted January 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 The method I have used for years with Mausers is simple and has worked well for me. On the bottom of the receiver find the witness mark. Install the barrel hand tight, and make a mark 1/8" on the barrel before the witness mark. Now torque till the two line up. This gives you about 50-60 Foot Pounds of torque. I recently re-barreled 2 Swede Mausers with new Swedish Military barrels that were finish chambered. Both headspaced exactly on the Go gauge using this method. The man I learned engraving from taught me this in 69-70, he learned this in Germany. Rebel49 Thank you all for your opinions, rebel 49 I think I'll try your method with my project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Half a grunt, dumbbell curl estimate, romp down... I think Rebel49's technique is the most scientific and repeatable without the use of an actual torque wrench. And if he learned it from a German firearms engraver it must be good! I'm adding that one to my toolbox, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I'll try to remember Rebel's method the next time I have one that will spin on by hand. HOWEVER........ The last one that I did with an A&B barrel only went on by hand O-N-E turn!! I got out the cheater (3 foot pipe) and got a whole other turn more. I had to spin the thing off and do the valve grinding compound trick to finally get it to 'work' it's way on. Even after cleaning off the valve grinding compound and replacing that with never seize I still needed the receiver wrench without the cheater to spin it on. When torque shoulders met, then I pulled out the cheater and gave it just a little extra UMPH! SOooooo.... Does anyone have any guidelines for when the threads are snug enough that it takes at least some kind of tool to help spin the barrel on? Tinker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cold shot Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 Tinker, I usually take my large ring tap to the action first, then use the die for large ring on the barrel. they usually go on pretty easy then. I had earlier in the day came up on that same problem with a used LR barrel to go into a yugo m24 action the die did the trick. If you don't have them and want to borrow mine, drop me an email. It;s in my profle. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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