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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Need Help With Mauser Bolt Problem


bayouray

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I posted this on another forum but no one has chimed in. I thought this site might have more experience.....I recognize many of the nicknames here so I know we visit the same forums. Thanks in advance! Ray

 

Ok guys....I need some help. I bought this rifle a couple years ago from someone on one of the gun message boards. I like the rifle very much for a light, short Swede. I even took a couple of whitetails with it. The problem is it always was very difficult to lift the bolt. The rifle had been changed to kock on open. The cut that was made in the bolt was way to large and not at the correct angle. The last time I used the rifle I had to hit the handle with a wood block to raise the bolt. I decided to get a bolt off Ebay and forge the handle. I have no problem just returning it to kock on close. From looking at pictures I think the receiver is a Spanish m93 Mauser. The barrel is a m94 Swede in great condition. I read my copy of Kuhnhausen and decided I needed a m93/m95 bolt with the flat bottom. I got one (bead blasted) on Ebay but it does not fit! It only goes in most of the way and then that's it. I have pictures showing this. It also does not have the gas vent like the original one has. I then bid on another small ring bolt that was in great shape and did have gas vents and a welded bolt for scope clearance. The thing is I FORGOT to check if it was flat on the bottom.....and it NOT! Bonehead me.

 

I can't seem to find the right bolt. Please look at the pictures and tell me if it is indeed a Spanish M93 Mauser. Also, why do you think the m93/m95 bolt (bead blasted) does not fit?

 

What would you suggest I do next?

The pics are of my receiver, the bead blasted bolt, the bolt in the receiver as far as it will go, and the original bolt that was poorly converted to kock on open. Thanks!

 

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Well, I'm still on dial-up and unloading those pics would take all night. So let me make a quick answer to your problem, I have had it before.

 

First off, you do not bead blast a bolt. Only polish it. And as to the correct bolt for a 93/95 Mauser, they are not the same one. A '93 uses the flat bottom bolt (most found on Ebay) while the '95 (if from Chile) needs the round bolt.

 

A round bolt for a '95 Mauser is hard to find. When the pics unload, maybe I'll be able to help you more.

 

fritz

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Thanks for the reply Fritz. I bought the bolt on Ebay already bead blasted. It is the proper flat bottom but does not have the gas vent and just does not go all the way in. I may try to polish it out and see if that works. I think my best option might be to write off the ebay bolt as a lesson learned and try to find a bolt in better condition. Because of my bonehead error I now own a very nice round bottom blued m95 bolt with a welded handle for scope clearance with two gas vent holes (bolt body and extractor).....but no receiver for it! LOL

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" I now own a very nice round bottom blued m95 bolt with a welded handle for scope clearance with two gas vent holes (bolt body and extractor).....but no receiver for it! LOL "

 

If you want to sell it, I'm interested.

 

fritz

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Your receiver looks like a Spanish 1916 which is basically a 93 and uses a flat bottom bolt.

You may have to try a couple bolts to find one that fits. And then check the headspace.

Kenny

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Since you've already bought a bolt on ebay and gone to a lot of other trouble this may not be the best time to bring this up, but finding parts for rifles is better done with Numrich Arms instead of ... God knows who. Also, the bolt you originally had can be converted back to C-o-C simply by replacing the cocking piece and firing-pin spring with original equipment. From the looks of the notch made for the Dayton-Traister kit, the main problem is in the finish of the metal. Right now it looks like it was hacked out with a dull chisel. I can't say for sure that you'de ever get it to work as well as you'd like, but with a whole lot of elbow greese and fine sandpaper you could probably make an improvement. The final finish would require a fine stone and even more elbow greese. Good luck!

 

P.S. If you ever get the rifle shooting properly, hunt down the idiot that screwed it up and kill him! We don't need these kinds of problems too when we've got legislators all over the country trying to take our guns away from us.

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Oldfart:

 

He did give me a very good price on it and once I get it straight I think It will be worth the effort. I agree that most of us would have corrected the "chop" job or at least disclosed the poor job before selling it. Oh well....live and learn.

 

You know I didn't even think to try the bolt as is with the proper spring and cocking piece returning it to cock on close. I will definitely try that. If works but is just "not pretty" I might be able to just live with it.

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

Ray

 

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Problem Solved. Thanks for the replies. I tried putting an original cocking piece and spring back on the original bolt as suggested by Oldfart. I assumed the oversized camming cut from the poorly done cock on open conversion would affect the bolt for cock on close. As Oldfart said it works like a charm. Nice thing is headspacing remains good since I am using the original bolt.

 

I think I will still try to polish up the bead blasted bolt I bought on Ebay. Hopefully I can make it serviceable and it's good practice anyway.

 

Ray

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