Clemson Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 I was asked to pull together the steps for this project so far. I hope this helps to find the scattered pieces! Drill and Tap Receiver: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4227 Squaring Torque Shoulders: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4287 Barrel Fitting: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4334 Chambering: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4335 Final Reaming: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4336 Bolt Handle: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4787 Extractor Cut: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4342 What have I left out, and where do we go from here? I did do a bit of polishing on the action and barrel. I have a two-wheel buffing setup with 140 grit on one wheel and 320 grit on the other. I used that to take the bluing off the receiver and to work on the barrel a bit. I will try to document a few more steps in the process: I will put a new trigger on the rifle. I will fit a safety. I will inlet the barreled action into a stock. I have a Boyd's JRS laminate for this project. I need to stamp the caliber on the barrel. I will recontour the trigger guard. I may attempt to blue this rifle myself, but don't hold me to that. I will mount a scope. I will fire the rifle on the range and show the results. At the rate that I get to work on this project, I will probably be a couple of years getting finished! If you have questions or suggestions, fire away! Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 Clemson, This series you put together will truely help out those wanting to try this for the first time. Wish I had the time to document my work. Super job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 Let me just say - perfect timing for me, as I've just taken the first steps down this very road. Thank you, Clemson! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Clemson First I'd like to say thanks then WOW!! That's a great presentation. Along the lines of preping the metal for a finish and polishing I noticed that you didn't take the crest off so I'm making the assumption that you didn't go through the hardened metal. Do you find many imperfections when you get the metal to white? The reason that I ask is that I'd like to do some bluing and was under the impression that you have to take it down to smooth and then reharden the metal. Do you worry about that and if not, does it really make a difference in how the finished product looks? thanks lc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Along the lines of preping the metal for a finish and polishing I noticed that you didn't take the crest off so I'm making the assumption that you didn't go through the hardened metal. Do you find many imperfections when you get the metal to white? The reason that I ask is that I'd like to do some bluing and was under the impression that you have to take it down to smooth and then reharden the metal. Do you worry about that and if not, does it really make a difference in how the finished product looks? Hi lc. I only buffed the bluing off the M48 action. In fact, I have not done anything at all to the interior surfaces. The only place that you need to worry about the hardness on the action is the locking lug recesses. If you don't mess with those recesses, what you do to the outside of the action is immaterial to the strength. I guess that would translate to "No, I don't plan to reharden the action. I'll just blue it." I am new to the metal prep game, so you guys will be learning with me as I go through the bluing process. I will be happy to take some pics of the buffing setup and process if that will help anyone. Of those Mauser actions that are fairly readily available right now, the M48 and 24/47 actions have by and large escaped wartime use. I have a half dozen or 8, and only one has significant pitting on it. That one will probably get the sandblast treatment, the best of the takeoff military barrels, and the cheapest stock I can find. All the rest will clean up with just a bit of work. As a generalization, the 24/47's look to be a bit more carefully made than the M48's, but the M48 that I am working on for this project is really quite acceptable and smooth. Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlecanoe Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Clemson, Thanks for bearing with me on the subject. I'm more than comfortable with the "wood" part of sporterizing. I farm out the technical metal related tasks. I find myself continually learning more about the actions and related safety issues. I've probably heard/read in the past that then inner ring is where the hardness is needed but, for some reason, thought that hardening of the outer surfaces added more strength. I appreciate the tutorials and the great benefit of your experience as you share it here. lc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 A year or so ago, I said you should write a book. It looks like you've just about got it done. Just need a publisher. Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted June 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 I got a new camera a few days ago, and I just wanted to try posting an image from it to see how it shows up. Forgive me the irrelevance I'm still learning! Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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